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Published by the 
ESSEX INSTITUTE 






The Historical Collections 
Essex Institute 



Historical. Genealogical arid Antiquarian 

Published quarterly, each volume containing over four 

hundred pages with an exhaustive index 

and numerous illustrations. 



Volumes I— LII [I859-I9I6]» $150.00. 
Subscription, $2.00 per annum. 



Send for List of Publications. 



^e Essex Institute^ Salem, Mass. 



BRIEF ITINERARY 



This itinerary begins and ends at the railroad station and is ar- 
ranged to cover only the most important places of interest. 

Market, Front street, established in 1816. See also page 126. 

Grimshawe House, 53 Charter street, where Miss Sophia A. 
Peabody lived before marrying Hawthorne. This house is described 
in Hawthorne's story of "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret." It adjoins the 
Charter street burial ground on the west and is now much altered in 
appearance. See also page 52. 

Charter Street Burial Ground, "Old Burying point," the earli- 
est place of burial in Salem, 1630. Gov. Simon Bradstreet (called 
the Nestor of New England) was buried here in 1697, and here lie 
the Brownes, Lyndes, Hathornes, Turners, Parkmans. Higginsons and 
the early ancestors of many other leading Massachusetts families. 
Capt. Richard More, who came in the "Mayflower," is buried here, 
and his gravestone is the only original stone of a Mayflower passenger 
known to exist. The oldest stone is dated 1673. See tablet on the 
gate. See also page 165. 

Derby Street, exhibiting evidences of Salem's former commercial 
prosperity. See also page 24. 

Old Ladies' Home, 180 Derby street, was built for Benjamin W. 
Crowninshield, M. C. and Secretary of the Navy. It was afterwards 
the residence of Gen. Tames Miller, the hero of Lundy Lane (1814). 
See also page 145. 

Custom House, 178 Derby street, where Hawthorne began the 
''Scarlet Letter." His surveyor's stencil plate may be seen here. 
The desk upon which he wrote is at the Essex Institute. .Gen. James 
Miller was at one time Collector. See also pages 60 and 123. 

"House of the Seven Gables" (so called), 54 Turner street, 
built about 1669 ; a favorite haunt of Hawthorne ; now restored, with 
six furnished rooms, a secret staircase, furniture, relics and a "cent 
shop." Admission 25c. In the old-time garden in the rear is 
"The Old Bakery," built 1683, now restored, that formerly stood at 
23 Washington Street. See also page 54. 



BRIEF ITINERARY 



Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne, 27 Union street, built be- 
XX7 u- ^^ ^''^^ ^^^'■^ ^^^^^ J^^y '^' 1804. 5^^ also page 47 
Washington Square -(Salem Common) reserved for a "traininR 
held and now showing style of houses built early in the last century 
Near by, 26 Winter street, lived Justice Storv, and in this house, still 
standmg but somewhat altered, the eminent poet and sculptor W W 
htory was born and Lafayette was entertained here in 1824. ' Andrew 
^foHse 13 Washington Square, built 1818, by uncle of Gov. John 
A. Andrew who frequented it. Roger Conant statue at the head of 
Brown street. See also page 169. 

Hawthorne's Residence, 14 Mall Street, where the ^reat 
romancer wrote "The Scarlet Letter." See also page 51 

Essex Institute, 132-134 Essex Street, founded 1848, succeeding 
Essex Historical Society, 182L and Essex County Natural History 
Society, 1833. Has for its object the promotion of History, Science 
^. nn ? '^ ^''f'' C°™ty. Is supported by an annual assessment of 
ij)3.00 from each of its members, the income from its funds and vol- 
untary contributions from its friends; maintains lecture courses his- 
torical and scientific publications, a museum and picture gallerv a 
library of 500,000 volumes,-historv, genealogy, newspapers, manu- 
scripts and special libraries on China and the Chinese and the Com- 
mercial Marme. Prescott. the historian, was born in a house for- 
merly on the site of the Museum Building, where also lived Nathan 
Kead, M. C, who built and navigated a steamboat on Danvers river 
18 years before Fulton. Tn the first house on this site lived Emanuel 
Downing; his son George, for whom Downing Street, London, was 
named ; and Gov. Simon Bradstreet, who died here. 

WHAT TO SEE. 

Picture Gallery. Portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Fitch (CoP- 
/^;) Mrs. Forrester {Stuart), Alexander Hamilton {Trumbull) 
Sir William Pepperrell {Smibert), Henry Wheatland, M D {Vhi- 
ton), and many others ; 17th century furniture ; witchcraft documents 
and relics; tea from the Boston Tea Party; the Governor Bradford ' 
baptismal shirt and blanket brought over in the "Mayflower" • the 
Scarlet Letter" law book ; Paul Revere engravings ; old silver, m'inia 
tures, fans, funeral rings, etc. 



BRIEF ITINERARY 

Museum Hall. Furnished rooms — kitchen (1750) ; bedroom 
(1800) ; parlor (1800) ; 18th century furniture; large collection of 
New England costume ; Revolutionary and Civil War weapons and 
relics; flag from which the name "Old Glory" originated (1831) ; the 
Cape Ann charter ( 1623) ; one horse chaise (1785) ; desk used at the 
Custom House by Hawthorne (in front gallery) ; gibbet from 
()uebec, which once held the body of a murderess (1763) ; large 
collections of glass and pottery, tools, implements, toys, dolls, etc. 

Garden (in rear), 17th century house (1684) with overhanging 
second story and peaked windows in the roof, the rooms on the first 
floor are furnished in the manner of the period, the leanto contains 
an apothecary shop (1830), a Salem "cent shop" (1830), and a 
weave room; garden of 17th century flowers; old time well sweep; 
small shoe maker's shop with equipment of about 1830; Mclntire 
porch (1806) ; porch from the "Grimshawe house"; first Quaker 
Meeting house in Salem (1688) ; cupola from the roof of the Pick- 
man-Derby-Brookhouse mansion containing the Gome fresco (about 
1790) ; mile stone (1711) ; etc. 

Peabody Museum, 161 Essex Street. Founded and endowed by 
George Peabody in 1867. Includes museum of East India Marine 
Society, founded in 1799. Ethnological, natural history and com- 
mercial marine collections. {Circular of information at the door, 
free.). 

WHAT TO SEE. 

Entrance Corridor. Whaling exhibit ; model of whaler "Sea Fox", 
whaling irons and bomb-lances ; nautical instruments : nocturnal 
(1724), Davis quadrant (1750), circle of reflection, sextant used by 
Dr. Livingstone the African explorer, artificial horizons ; builders' 
hull-models of Salem ships. 

Marine Room. Relics of East India Marine Society (1799), 
earliest rigged model of the frigate "Constitution", models of ship 
"Friendship" (1797), privateer ''America" (1812) ; portraits of Wil- 
liam Gray, Elias Hasket Derby, the wealthiest man in America in 
1 799, Joseph Peabody, Capt. John Bertram ; paintings of old Salem 
ships, "Grand Turk", "Mount Vernon", "Ulysses" and ''Cleopatra's 



BRIEF ITINERARY 

Barge", the first American yacht to visit Europe (1816) ; box-wood 
carving, "Heaven and the Day of Judgment" (14th century). 

Natural History Hall (up stairs). Essex County collections, 
golden eagle, wild cats, skeleton of Indian buried with head in cop- 
per kettle. For Essex County herbarium, inquire of officer in charge. 
General natural history collections, skeleton of gorilla, enormous 
Gallapagos island tortoises, buffalo, mounted horns and antlers, 
beautiful corals and a pair of Tridacna or giant clam shells weighing 
300 pounds. 

Hall of Ethnology (enter at left, rear of Natural History Hall). 
Great Hawaiian idol, one of three still in existance, figure of Gilbert 
Island native dressed in cocoanut fibre armor, Fiji clubs and spears, 
rare New Zealand apd Marquesan ornaments. (In gallery) African 
fetish drum, weapons from Stanley's "Darkest Africa" expedition, 
reed canoe from Clear Lake, California, Brazilian feather hammock 
and ornaments, reduced human head from_ Ecuador. 

Weld Hall (enter at rear of Ethnology Hall). Largest Japanese 
ethnological collection in any museum, dressed figure of warrior, 
very large household shrine, saddles and stirrups. (In gallery) 
beautiful model of Taj Mehal, India, life-sized portrait-figures of 
India merchants, figurines and model of market place, India, Chi- 
nese flag captured by Commodore Armstrong on Canton river, 1854, 
set for opium smoking, carved ivory sphere containing twenty con- 
centric balls, figure of devil-killer, gorgeous Chinese costumes, palan- 
quin (1803) used by East India Marine Society in processions, 
Korean one-wheeled carrying chair, trumpets twelve feet long from 
Tibet. 

Town House Square, intersection of Essex and Washington 
streets. The first meeting-house, built in Salem in 1634, stood on the 
corner still occupied by its successor. About thirty feet west of the 
present church stood the old Town and Court House {sec tablet on 
church). Here Gov. Burnet convened the General Court in 1728 
and 1729. A dinner was here given to Sir William Pepperrell by the 
town (1746). House of Assembly met here with closed doors and 
defied Gen. Gage (1774). Provincial Congress organized and first 
met here (1774). Site of the "Endecott and the Red Cross" episode 



MAP OF SALEM 

AND 

BRIEF ITlNERAFvY 




SEAL OF THE CITY OF SALEM. 



BRIEF ITINERARY 

(1634), and of the "Rill from the Old Town Pump." Houses of 
"Old Planter'.' John Woodbury (1626), and of Endicott, Roger 
Williams, Hugh Peter, and Francis Higginson, were nearby. See 
also page 173. 

City Hall, 93 Washington street, built in 1837-8. Portraits of 
interest and the original Indian deed of Salem. See also page 116. 

Site of Witchcraft Court House, in middle of Washington 
street. See tablet on Masonic Temple, 70 Washington street. See 
also page 118. 

St. Peter's Church (Episcopal), corner of St. Peter and Brown 
streets, built in 1833, succeeding another built in 1733. At the right 
of the main entrance is the gravestone of Jonathan Pue. See "Intro- 
duction" to the "Scarlet Letter." See also page 141. 

Birthplace of Nathaniel Bowditch, rear of 14 Brown street. 

Site of Witchcraft Jail, 4 Federal street. See also page 126. 

Court Houses, corner of Federal and Washington streets. The 
witchcraft records may be seen in the office of the clerk of courts, 
also the "witch pins." Enter between the iirst two court houses. 
Law library, many portraits, including Hunt's famous portrait of 
Chief-Justice Shaw. See also page 118. 

Assembly House (now a private residence), 138 Federal street, 
built in 1782. Lafayette dined here in 1784, and here Washington 
attended a ball in 1789. See also page 150. 

North Bridge, North street, scene of the retreat of the 64th Regt. 
of the Line, commanded by Lt.-Col. Leslie, Sunday, February 26, 
1775. See also page 156. 

Witch House, corner of Essex and North streets. Rebuilt in 
1674-5. In 1692 it was occupied by Judge Corwin, and here some 
of the preliminary witchcraft examinations are said to have taken 
place. See also page 164. 

North Church, 3145<2 Essex street, built in 1835. See also page 
139. 

Plummer Hall, 339 Essex street, built in 1906, the home of the 
Salem Athenasimi, a proprietary library. See also page 113. 



BRIEF ITINERARY 

Public Library, 370 Essex street, formerly the residence of John 
Bertram, the eminent merchant and philanthropist ; 63,000 volumes. 
Open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. M. See also page 111. 

Giles Corey, who was pressed to death in 1692, lived on the site 
of 46 Boston street before he removed to what is now West Peabody. 
See also page 15. 

Gallows Hill, rear of Boston street, the scene of nineteen witch- 
craft executions in 1692. 

Chestnut Street. Many fine residences built after the War of 
1812. 

Hamilton Hall, 9 Chestnut street, named in honor of Alexander 
Hamilton, built in 1805, and since then the centre of Salem's social 
activity. Pickering was entertained here in 1818, Bainbridge in 
1813, and Lafayette in 1824. See also page 132. 

Pickering House, 18 Broad street, built in 1660. The birthplace 
of Timothy Pickering, 1745. See also page 158. 

Broad Street Burying Ground, opposite the Pickering house, 
laid out in 1655. Here lie buried Sheriff George Corwin, who 
executed "the witches," Col. Timothy Pickering, and Gen. Frederick 
W. Lander. See also page 165. 

Ruck House, 8 Mill street, built before 165_^1, Here John Adams, 
afterwards second President of the United States, was entertained on 
several occasions. John Singleton Copley, artist, and father of Lord 
Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor of England, lived and painted here. 
See also page 160. 

Joshua Ward House, 150 Washington street. Washington 
passed the night in the northeast chamber in this house when on his 
presidential tour of the East in October, 1789. On this site lived 
Sheriff George Corwin, who, in 1692, at the age of twenty-six, 
executed the persons condemned for witchcraft. See also page 162. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. V 

Gray, William, 28 

" Grimsliawe " porch, ......... 53 

Hamilton, Alexander, ......... 74 

Hathorne, Judge, gravestone, 1.5 

Hawaiian idol, 99 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, portraits, 45 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, birthplace, 48 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, desk, 100 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, 180 

" House of the Seven Gables," 55 

Hunt house, 58 

Ingersoll, Horace, 59 

Jacobs, George, witchcraft trial, 17 

Melntire carvings, 42, 170 

Mall Street house, 51 

Market House and Market Square, 128 

" Mayflower gravestone," 165 

Narbonne house, showing lean-to roof 1.56 

Nichols house, type of colonial architecture; paved yard, . , 158 

Oliver, B. Lynde, .50 

Peabody Museum, 83, 86, 98 

Pepperrell, Sir William, 184 

Peter, Hugh, 2 

Pickering, Timothy, 185 

Pickering house, 161 

Pickman Place, 68 

Porches, 39, 53, 82 

Public Library, 112 



VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Railroad Station, Frontispiece 

Eead-Prescott house, 7( 

Ropes Memorial, IK 

Ruck house, , 161 

Salem Athenaeum, Plummer Hall 11? 

Seven Gables, House of the 5f 

Sewall, Stephen, . . , 15 

Ship pictures, 21-30, 89, 9( 

Story, Joseph, .181 

Town pump, ........... 61 

Ward, John, house, 81 

Ward, Miles, house, showing gambrel roof and porch, . . . 165 

Washington Medallion, 17( 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, ....,..., 7 

Willows, The, 17( 

"Witch House," U 



r — ^ 



VISITOR'S GUIDE 



TO 



SALEM 



FIFTY-FOURTH THOUSAND 




PUBLISHED BY 

THE ESSEX INSTITUTE 

SALEM, MASS. 
I916 



^74 



Copyright by 
The Essex Institute 

igi6 



Press of NEWCOMB S" GAUSS, Saltm, Masi. 



GENERAL INFORMATION 



Salem, shire town of Essex County, 16 miles northeast of Boston, 
is reached by the Boston & Maine R. R. (North Station), or electric 
cars from Scollay Square, Boston; settled in 1626; area 8.2 square 
miles; population 1765, 4,427: 1776, 5,337; 1800, 9,457; 1820, 
12,731; 1850, 20,264; 1875, 25,958; 1900, 35,956, 1915, 36,826. 

Railroad Station (Boston & Maine system), on Washington 
street ; 80 trains daily. 

Street Car Office (Bay State System), Town House Square, two 
minutes walk from the railroad station. Electric cars and "jitney" 
busses run every fifteen minutes to and from nearly all parts of the 
city and to Marblehead, Lynn, Peabody, Danvers and Beverly; fare, 
five cents (ten cents to Lynn) ; transfer checks given without extra 
charge if request is made when the fare is paid. 

Automobiles and Carriages may be hired at the railroad station, 
but better service usually may be secured at various garages and 
livery stables. Drivers will point out places of interest. Carriage 
fare (1-4 persons) $1.00 per hour. The information furnished by 
boy guides found about the streets is usually very inaccurate. 

Hotels. New Essex House ($2.50-$3.00), Washington Hotel 
($2.00), Hotel Lafayette (rooms). Restaurants may be found on 
Essex street and Washington street. There are several excellent 
boarding houses. 

Clubs. Salem Club (29 Washington Square, North), Colonial 
Club (118 Washington Street), Knights of Columbus (94 Washing- 
ton Square, East). Elks (17 North Street). 

Amusements. Empire Theatre (285 Essex Street), Salem 
Theatre (259>4 Essex Street), Federal Theatre (24 Federal Street), 
Plaza Theatre (273 Essex Street). Lectures and concerts at 
Academy Hall (157 Essex Street), and Ames Hall (288 Essex 
Street). See newspaper announcements. Band concerts are given 
during the summer at "The Willows," where there is also a summer 
theatre. 

Post Office, (118 Washington St.), open 6.45 A. M. to 10 P. M. 



viii GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Telegraph and Telephone Offices. Western Union Telegraph 
Office (83 Washington Street), Postal Telegraph Office (144 Wash- 
ington Street), Public Telephone Stations will be found in various 
drug stores, the hotels and the court houses. 

Churches. Unifanan. First Church (Essex corner Washington), 
Second Church (Washington Square), North Church (314 Essex 
Street) . Congregational. Tabernacle (Washington, corner Federal ) , 
South (Chestnut" corner Cambridge), Crombie Street (Crombie 
Street). Episcopal, St. Peter's (St. Peter corner Brown), Grace 
(381 Essex Street). Roman Catholic, Immaculate Conception 
(Walnut Street). St. James (150 Federal), St. Joseph's (French) 
(151 Lafayette), St. Anne (French) (Jefferson Ave., corner Story). 
St. John de Baptist (Polish) (30 St. Peter Street). Baptist, First 
Baptist (56 Federal), Calvary Baptist (Bridge corner Lemon). 
Universalist, First Universalist (Rust Street) . Methodist Episcopal. 
Lafayette Street (290 Lafayette Street), Wesley (10 North Street). 
Also Advejit Christian, (127>2 North Street). Jewish Synagogue, 
(Essex corner Herbert). First Church of Christ Scientist. (16 
Lvnde St.) 

'Newspapers. Salem Evening News (daily), established m 1880 : 
Salem Observer (weekly), established in 1823 : Le Courier de Salem 
* (weekly), established in 1901. 

Manufactures. The manufacturing industries are varied but 
principally confined to cotton, fine grades of leather, and shoes. In 
1915 there were 178 different establishments employing 5,294 persons, 
with $9,824,000 invested capital and an annual production valued 
at $13,453,000. These figures reflect to a degree the effects of the 
disastrous conflagration of ''June 25, 1914. The principal industry is 
the Naumkeag Steam Cotton Company which since the fire has re- 
erected its buildings largely in concrete and now possess the finest 
and best equipped plant of its kind in the country. The company was 
incorporated in 1839 and makes the celebrated "Pequot" sheets and 
sheetings. It emplovs 1300 hands, consumes 25,000 bales of cotton 
and weaves over 20.000,000 yards of cloth per year, varying from 30 to 
108 inches in width. This, if stretched out in one line would reach 
from Salem to San Francisco and across the Pacific ocean to Japan. 




CITY HALL 



BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD STATION 



CONTENTS. 



Map and Short Itinerary, Preliniinary pages 

List of Illustrations, iv 

General Information, vii 

I. Historical Sketch, 1 

II. Witchcraft Delusion, 11 

III. Commerce of Salem, 21 

IV. Salem Architecture, 32 

V. Hawthorne, 44 

VI. Museums and Libraries, 67 

Essex Institute 67 

Peabody Museum, . , 83 

VII. Public Buildings, Halls, etc 114 

VIII. Churches, 135 

IX. Societies, Clubs, etc., 144 

X. Historic Buildings, Sites, etc., 151 

XI. Cemeteries 165 

XII. Parks, Squares, etc., 169 

XIII. Prominent Citizens and Visitors, 175 

XIV. List of Portraits, 190 

XV. Neighboring Places of Interest, 206 

Index, 214 

iii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Baker's Island; the Cliffs 171 

Bentley, Rev. William, 1~6 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, ITG 

Bradstreet, Governor, 6 

Bradstreet, Governor, house, 71 

Cabot house, showing gambrel roof, 162 

C liurches : North; South; Second ; St. Peter's, .... 134 

City Hall, Frontispiece 

Conant Statue, 1 

Court Houses 121 

Custom House, 124 

Derby, Elias Hasket, 26 

Derby wharf {Little), 8 

Doorways and doorheads, 40, 42 

East India Marine Hall, 83 

Endecott, Governor, 2 

Endicott, Judge, house, 162 

English, Philip, house, 53 

Essex Place, 67 

Essex Institute and Kitchen in its Museum, 66 

Essex Institute Seal, designed by Dr. George A. Perkins, Title page 

Fitch, Mrs. Timothy 74 

Forrester, Mrs. Charlotte, 74 

Gravestones, 15, 165, 167 

iv 



CHAPTER I. 




T 



NANT STATUE 



Historical Sketch. 

HE Pilgrims of Plymouth are looked upon as 
very early pioneers of New England, but 
Roger Conant and his companions came to 
Cape Ann only three years, and to Salem only six 
years, after the landing at Plymouth. They brouglit 
with them the Sheffield patent which authorized the 
settling of the North Shore of Massachusetts Bay. 
The original document may be seen in the museum of 
the Essex Institute. The difference in time between 
its date, January 1st, 1623, and the arrival of Roger 
Conant at Naumkeag, now Salem, in. 1626, is ac- 
counted for by the fact that the little band of adven- 
turers first essayed, as Hubbard says, a settlement at Cape Ann. This 
they found a poor place for husbandry in summer and a bleak resi- 
dence for the winter fisheries, and soon moved on to the "pleasant 
and fruitful neck of land called Naumkeag." In a secluded cove 
beautifully situated and protected from the northerly and easterly 
winds by an elevated point of land projecting into North river, their 
houses of temporary construction were raised. This cove was sub- 
sequently known as Massey's and lies at the foot of what is now 
Skerry street. 

Dorchester Company. Meantime, in England, affairs were in 
a disturbed condition. The acts of the king were obnoxious to his 
subjects, and some of the rites and ceremonies of the established 
church were far from satisfactory to many of the people, both clergy 
and laymen. Emigration to the new land, though little known, 
seemed to offer a solution of the problem and some of the best peo- 
ple, including those of education and wealth, determined to brave 

(1) 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




Cldeeoll 



the stormy Atlantic and wring a livelihood 
by some means from the lands and \Yaters 
of distant New England. Accordingly the 
Dorchester company obtained a new char- 
ter, reserving privileges to the old Plant- 
ers, both material and political, and in 
1628 sent over a colony of settlers, mider 
the leadership of Capt. John Endecott, 
who laid out streets and lots of land 
which he duly assigned to the new com- 
ers and also to the old Planters. What is 
now Washington street, from Essex street 
to the North river, was the principal thor- 
oughfare. The company's house at Cape 
Ann was taken down, brought to Salem and re-erected at what is 
now the southeastern corner of Washington and Federal streets, 
where it was occupied by Captain Endecott, and known as " the 
Governour's fayre house." 

Church. In July, 1629, came Rev. Francis Higginson and Rev. 
Samuel Skelton, respectively teacher and pastor of the church which 
was organized upon their arrival, it being the first Congregational 
societv formed in America. A meeting house was erected soon after 
upon the northwestern corner of the lot that had been granted to 
William Lord, and the site ever since that 
time has been occupied by the meeting-house 
of the First Church. This church was inde- 
pendent of all other religious affiliations, 
having its powers and authoritv entirely 
within itself. 

Roger Williams. In 1633. Rev. Roger 
Williams, a young man from England, who 
had been with the Pilgrims at Plymouth 
awhile, became pastor of the church. Two 
years later, because of his unrelenting prac- 
tice of teaching that the civil magistrates 
should have no authoritv over the conscience i^^'-"^ hi oh vh i fr 




HISTORICAL SKETCH O 

of the people; that they had no power to punish for heresy; that 
every one should be free to choose such form of religious worship as 
he pleased, and not be compelled to support any other, — because of 
these teachings and also because of his free criticism of the acts of 
the government, he was banished from the colony by the magistrates 
at Boston, although supported by the Salem church. He fled in the 
cold and deep snow of winter into the pathless wilderness, and after 
months of wandering and of suffering made a settlement which sub- 
sequently became the Providence Plantations, and is now the state of 
Rhode Island. 

Hugh Peter. In 1637, the Rev. Hugh Peter became pastor. He 
was a non-conforming clergyman of England who had gone to Hol- 
land and had been for several years pastor of an independent church 
at Rotterdam. Becoming greatly interested in the promotion of busi- 
ness in the colony, especially in commerce, in 1641, with the consent 
of the church, he went to England to further the accomplishment of 
his desires. There he became hiterested in Cromwell's political revo- 
lution, and was appointed a chaplain in the popular army. He never 
returned to America, and upon the restoration in 1660 he was 
charged with being accessory to the king's death, principally by sug- 
gestions contained in sermons which he preached to the army. He 
was condemned and hanged at Charing Cross, and his body was dis- 
emboweled, quartered and exhibited in the four principal cities of the 
kuigdom, and the head was raised upon a pole on London Bridge. 

Fishing Industry. It was under the impulse given to commerce 
by Hugh Peter's agitation that vessels began to be built in Salem, and 
the fishing business was established at Winter Island. The island 
and neighboring shores of the Neck were laid out into half-acre lots, 
which were granted by the town to various persons. Many ware- 
houses were built near the water and a street M-as laid out over the 
island and appropriately named Fish street. Upon the Neck, houses 
of entertainment and refreshment were established and remained for 
many years. In those very early days the Neck was the busy part of 
the town. 

Religion. The stern religion of the Puritans of Salem, marked 



4 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

them with a peculiar and almost unnatural bigotry, when it is re- 
membered that thev left the church of England for the sake of spirit- 
ual freedom. Roger 'Williams strenuously endeavored to separate 
church and state and met with slight success. His successors were 
content to allow the civil magistrates control in religious affairs. So 
strongly had the tenets of the Congregationalists become fastened in 
the minds of the people that no one could vote or hold public ofl&ce 
unless he became a positive adherent of that particular church. The 
Episcopalians and others who believed differently from the author- 
ities were allowed no privileges or suflFrage. 

Quakers. When the missionaries of the Quakers came to Massa- 
chusetts preaching the gospel of love and equality, thev were received 
with execrations. Laws were immediatelv passed and attempts made 
to suppress the religion of the Friends, as the Quakers were called. 
Fines and imprisonment unavailed ; then ears, first one and then the 
other for a second offence, were cut off ; then chaining in open prison 
yards in the severe New England winter, almost without food was 
resorted to ; then the death-dealing scourge ; boring of the tongue 
with hot irons ; and finally banishment and death bv hanging. — all 
failed to exterminate or even to diminish the number of adherents to 
the faith of this peculiar people in the colony. In Salem, ears were 
cut off and several persons were banished, among whom were Law- 
rence Southwick and his wife, who sailed away from the colony in a 
small boat to Shelter Island where the exposure and privations of 
winter soon brought them to forgotten graves. Another of those ban- 
ished from Salem was Samuel Shattuck. but he turned his course di- 
rectly to England and immediately sought audience with the King 
and obtained a manifesto, addressed to Governor Endecott. which 
prohibited the inhuman treatment of the Quakers in this colony. 

The Indians found living here by the first settlers were always 
friendly and probablv the settlement had no thought of savage depre- 
dations. But when King Philip rose in 1675. no town Avas wholly 
free from apprehension. The General Court ordered the immediate 
cutting of the brush from the sides of highways and the building of 
fortifications. In Salem, long defences constructed of palisade and 



HISTORICAL SKETCH 5 

Stone at the western end of Essex street, from North river to the mill 
pond, cut off all approach by land from the surrounding country to 
the principal part of the settlement. The brave Capt. Thomas Lath- 
rop with his companv of seventy men, popularly called "The Flower 
of Essex," marched from Salem to death in Indian ambush at Bloody 
Brook, in Deerfield. Fighting Joe Gardner commanding another 
company, left his house where the museum building of the Essex 
Institute now stands on Essex street, and found death at the hands of 
the savages in the great fight in the Narrangansetf swamp. 

Witchcraft. Salem will be forever associated with the witch- 
craft delusion of 1692. If Salem did her part in persecuting the vic- 
tims of this frenzy, and she probably did no more than her part, it is 
fair to say that it was Salem, also, that furnished many martyrs, who 
declined to save themselves, through compromise or equivocation. It 
was not Salem, but the times, that were at fault, and at last, in May 
1693, a general gaol deliverv occurred, and the madness of the year 
before, bringing violent and disgraceful death to twenty of our un- 
offending neighbors, mostly women, never from that day forward 
gathered head again. ( si\' chaffer on Witchcrait Delusion, fh. 11). 

Endecott and Bradstreet. Salem was the residence not only of 
Gov. John Endecott, but of Gov. Simon Bradstreet in his old age. 
They happened to be the first and the last in the line of colonial 
governors. Their portraits are at the City Hall and at the Essex 
Institute. John Endecott came here as governor in September, 1628,. 
under the authority of a charter in duplicate one of which is pre- 
served in the Salem Athenaeum. A south of England man. of au- 
stere type and solemn mien, he filled the chair at various dates, for 
sixteen years in all. Simon Bradstreet, the nestor governor of Mass- 
achusetts, came to Salem with Winthrop in June, 1630. He outlived 
the whole Winthrop party, and died here in March, 1697, aged nine- 
ty-four, and was buried under a monument erected by the Province in 
the Charter street cemetery. He filled all the leading offices. He 
was twice governor, first from 1679 to 1686. when the charter was 
annulled, and again from 1689 to 1692, at the beginning of which 
term, when eighty-six years of age. he put himself at the head of a 



VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM 




_gTadstTeer. 
Revolutionary War. 



Revolutionary movement which impris- 
oned Andros. in the castle, and three years 
later transferred his authority to Sir Wil- 
liam Phips, governor under the charter 
granted by William III, to the Province. 
Bradstreet then became, at the patriarchal 
age of eighty-nine, the first assistant to the 
new governor. Such men as these have al- 
ways been found in Salem, where educa- 
tion, strong principles and great interests 
have ever been maintained with courage 
and persistence. 

On Oct. 5, 1774, a Provincial Congress 
convened in the town house and initiated the political revolution that 
"terminated forever the actual exercise of the political power of 
England in and over this territory." At the North Bridge in Salem, 
British aggressions were arrested and British arrogance curbed two 
months before Lexington and Concord earned their immortal fame. 
The prominence of Salem throughout the struggle for the independ- 
ence of the American colonies is well known. Besides the great 
mmiber of officers and soldiers that she furnished to the army, one 
hundred and fifty-eight vessels were fitted out as privateers and be- 
came the larger part of the American navy. These privateers cap- 
tured 445 prizes, more than the privateers of all other ports com- 
bined.* 

Commerce. Following the independence of the colonies. Salem 
merchants utilized the vessels they had built for the privateering ser- 
vice by entering into commercial relations with distant eastern re- 
gions never before visited by traders. Thus the Revolutionary War 
was an indirect cause of the commercial supremacy of Salem, for it 
put a sudden stop to all maritime enterprise and drove our whole 
mercantile marine into privateering. The result of this was that at the 
close of the war our men of substance found themselves in possession 
of an idle fleet, considerable in number, and made up of ships of 

* In the "^ar of 1812, of the 250 armed vessels furnished by the whole 
country, forty were from Salem. 



HISTORICAL SKETCH i 

much larger tonnage than before, that could outsail almost anything 
afloat. These ships were commanded by members of their own fam- 
ilies, and manned bv their own neighbors, native-bom seamen of a 
ven- hic-h class, and as well-drilled and able as could be foimd in 
any navy of the world. This fleet — capital and men — must be em- 
ployed and the merchants, all of them graduates of the cabin-^many 
of them graduates of the forecastle, — before they took their places in 
the counting-room, at once struck out new channels for trade and 
mapped out new ventures in unknown seas, where their enterprise, 
energy-, courage and skill gave them precedence for a time over those 
of all other American ports. Their hand-made charts of unexplored 
coasts were used for vears bv those who followed in their wake, and 
even, in the case of the first expedition to Japan, by the na\-y of the 
United States. The end of this golden era came when the railroads 
began to build up the great ports at the expense of the less, trans- 
porting buyers to the larger markets, where they found a greater 
variety of commodities from which to choose, and a livelier competi- 
tion to keep prices down, and also driving sellers to resort to the 
larger markets, because there they found buyers in greater numbers. 
The shallow harbor also could not accommodate the larger shipping 
which commerce demanded. Time was when Salem counting-rooms 
were frequented bv merchants from cities south of Philadelphia in 
search of certain imported articles for which this port once had the 
best market in the country. 

Houses. If the visitor strolls through the short streets running 
from Derby street, at the east of the town, he will not fail to be struck 
as forcibly as at Portsmouth. N. H.. or at Newport. R. I., with the 
st}-le of the wooden houses built long before the Revolution bv the 
old skippers, who had made their way up from forecastle to quarter- 
deck in schooners trading with the West Indies. Thev had navigat- 
ed the Mediterranean and Spanish and English waters, and had 
come home to enjov life after seeing all that was worth looking at in 
the old-world capitals beyond the seas. The houses thev built, the 
gardens with which thev made them bright and cheerv. the choice 
furniture and rare decorations with which thev filled their homes. 



VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM 




are at once monu- 
ments to the enter- 
prise, high spirit 
and intelligence of 
a wonderful race 
of men now practi- 
cally extinct, no 
less than to the 
commercial pre- 
eminence of the 
past of Salem. 

Shipping. In 
decades past Salem 
wharves were lined 
with ships which 
Salem merchants 
had built and 
OLD DERBY WHARF manned and sent 

Philip Little Essex Institute Picture Gallery- Iq CVCrv market of 

the world. They were piled high with the rich products of every 
civilized and barbaric land. There were Eastern ports where the 
names of New York. Philadelphia and Baltimore were scarcely 
known, but where Salem, of such small stature among her sister 
cities, was supposed to be the great commercial emporium of the 
West. In 1825, there were one hundred and ninety-eight vessels fly- 
ing Salem signals, and Salem ships were the first to display the 
American flag in many foreign ports, and to open trade with St. Pe- 
tersburg, Zanzibar, Sumatra, Calcutta, Bombay, Batavia, Arabia, 
Madagascar and Australia. No one makes a living here now by 
bringing gimi-copal, or silks, or ivory, or spices, or dates, or coffee, 
from the Orient, and the merchant no longer waits in his counting- 
room, spy-glass in hand to see his ships come up the bay. The for- 
eign commerce of Salem, years ago, spread its white wings and sailed 
awav forever. It is as much a thing of the past as is the French and 
Indian war or the witchcraft frenzy. Hawthorne intimated a pur- 



HISTORICAL SKETCH ^ 

pose of -ftTiting the romance of it. but left the promise unfuLtilled. 
and no successor has attempted it. The only monuments of that 
half -century of maritime success, besides the marine collections at 
the Peabody Museum, are the stately houses found scattered about 
the city, erected for merchants who had prospered in their ventures 
upon the sea. 

In the govenmaent of the nation in its earlv vears. manv of the 
cabinet oflficers and members of the senate and house of representa- 
tives were Salem men. Salem's unique stand in the war with Eng- 
land in 1812-1815 : the creditable part she bore in the war of the Re- 
bellion : and her well-earned eminence as a scientific and educational 
center, are matters of general knowledge. 

Hawthorne. The birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne is a shrine 
at which pilgrims ceaselessly come to worship, and the devotee of gen- 
ius must turn his steps to Union street if he would view the plain 
wooden house which was so unconscious of its coining importance 
when, on July 4. 1804. the romancer's birth took place there. The 
enthusiast, zealous enough to seek the house where Hawthorne first 
drew breath, needs but little information about the man and his work. 
The Salem custom house is the same decorous place of business it was 
A\hen Hawthorne made entries and stencilled packages and sketched 
romances there. The sur\-eyor's old pine desk, on the lid of which 
with his thumb nail he scratched his name, is now at the Institute. 
The house where he is said to have obtained the suggestion of the 
title of his book. "The House of the Seven Gables," is at the foot of 
Turner street. The '"Grimshawe house" has an original \ recently 
much altered) in Charter street, next the burial ground, this being 
the house where the romancer wooed and won his bride. 

In a conversation reported by Mrs. Rose Lathrop. Dr. Holmes said : 
'T not long ago was visiting the custom house at Salem, the place in 
which your father discovered those m\"Sterious records that unfolded 
into 'The Scarlet Letter.' Ah! how suddenlv and easily genius ren- 
ders the spot rare and full of a great and new virtue ( however ordi- 
nary and bare in reality) where it has looked and dwelt ! A light falls 
upon the place not of sea or land ! How much he did for Salem 1 Oh. 



10 visitor's guide to SALEM 

the purple light, the soft haze, that now rests upon our glaring New 
England ! He has done it, and it will never be harsh country again. 
How perfectly he understood Salem! Strange folk! It is the most* 
delightful place to visit for this reason, because it so carefully retains 
the spirit of the past. And their very surroundings bear them out," 
Dr. Holmes cried. "Where else are the little dooryards that hold 
their glint of sunlight so tenaciously, like the still light of wine in a 
glass? Year after year it is ever there!" {see chapter on Nathaniel 
Hawthorne fl. 44) . 

The Great Fire began in the early afternoon of June 25, 1914 as 
the result of an explosion of chemicals in a leather manufactory lo- 
cated in "Blubber Hollow," Boston street. The flames were not un- 
der control until thirteen hours later, when about 1800 buildings, 
about 1600 of which were dwelling houses, and 41 factories, had been 
destroyed, covering an area of about 251^^2 acres. It was estimated 
that nearly 15,000 persons were made homeless, while the property 
loss amounted to nearly $14,000,000. Fortunately but three lives 
v/ere lost. While the conflagration spread over a large area, due to a 
prevailing high wind, to roofs covered with wooden shingles, dry as 
tinder, which quickly caught fire from the flying brands, and to low 
pressure in the water supply at critical moments, yet the pathway of 
the flames mainly was through the manufacturing and more recent 
residential portions of the city so that nothing of historic or early- 
architectural interest was destroyed, 

Salem of Today. The feature of the Salem of today which ar- 
rests the stranger's attention next after her wonderfully fine old-time 
domestic architecture, is her two museums and her three libraries. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE WITCHCRAFT DELUSION. 

THE origin of the Witchcraft Delusion of 1692 is found in the 
belief in witchcraft that was universally held by the people of 
that time. A witch or wizard was a person who was regarded 
as having made a formal compact with the devil whereby the former 
should become the faithful subject of the latter and in return be 
given supernatural powers of a diabolical nature. The Bible contains 
•the command, "Thou shalt not suffer a witch to live;" and this in- 
junction, literally interpreted, brought about the terrible results of 
Salem witchcraft. The rich and the poor, the learned and the ig- 
norant, ministers and judges, accounted for many things that they 
could not understand by ascribing them to witchcraft. 

Prior to 1692, executions for this crime had occurred in England 
and in Boston, New England. The Salem quarterly court was not a 
stranger to such trials, several persons having been complained of, 
presented and tried therein for the practice of witchcraft at different 
times during the preceeding half-century. Thousands had been con- 
victed therefor and executed in the old world, many of whom were 
burned, but none were ever executed in that way in New England. 

Salem Village. The awful tragedies of 1692 did not originate 
in what is now the city of Salem, but in Salem Village (now Dan- 
vers), then a part of Salem, some seven miles from Town House 
square, in the house and familv of the pastor of the Village church. 
The meeting-house stood on the southern side of Hobart street, about 
seven hundred feet northeast of the present meeting-house, and the 
parsonage was in the field some three hundred feet from Centre 
street, near Forest street, on the other side of the Meeting House 
lane, as the road on which the first meeting-house stood was early 

(11) 



12 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



called. The minister was Rev, Samuel Parris, formerly a merchant 
in the West Indies, whence he had brought three slaves. One of them 
was a native Indian woman named Tituba, who was thoroughly im- 
bued Math the superstition of her former home. 

The Accusing Children. Children love to hear of the mysteri- 
ous, and doubtless many weird tales were poured into the eager 
ears of Elizabeth, the nine-year-old daughter of Mr. Parris, and her 
mates, who were already prepared 

for their reception by similar stories V>y Olr*€* J r^ 

of New England origin. It is evi- *' ^ / ^S^^irT^ 

dent that sorcery was among the ac- 
complishments of Tituba, and the effect of her companionship was 
soon apparent in the actions of the children of the neighborhood. 
Besides Elizabeth Parris, her cousin, Abigail Williams, aged eleven 
Ann Putnam, twelve, Marv Walcott, Mercy Lewis, and Elizabeth 

Hubbard, seventeen, and Eliza- 
beth Booth, Susanna Sheldon, 
Mary Warren and Sarah Chur- 
chill, two of the latter being 
servants, were concerned. These 
girls, in the winter of 1691-2, 
met at the parsonage, and 
whiled away the evenings by 
practising palmistry and magic. 
The lirst three named soon per- 
formed the little tricks more 
openly. They crept into holes 
and under chairs, placed them- 
selves in odd postures, uttered 
loud outcries, and used ridicu- 
lous, incoherent and unintelli- 
gible expressions. The atten- 
tion of Mr. Parris was drawn 
MAJOR STEPHEN SEWALL to these uucommon proceedings 

Clerk of the Witchcraft Court, and he was dismayed. The 

Essex Institute Picture Gallery. 




WITCHCRAFT DKLUSION 13 

Village physician, Dr. Griggs, was summoned, and he promptly 
pronomiced the children bewitched. The remedy sought by the par- 
ents of the girls was not, as it should have been, the rod, but fasting 
and prayer. Parson Parris and the neighboring ministers thus un- 
successfully endeavored to ward oflf the evil influence. Then resort 
was had to other means. Who bewitched the girls? They were be- 
sought to tell, and finally cried out, "Good," "Osburn," "Tituba." 
Thus began the damning accusations that were so potent in all the 
subsequent history of the delusion. One witch was the most that 
was naturally expected in a small community like that of Salem Vil- 
lage. Behold! three of these tools of Satan operating in the best 
families, even in that of the minister. Excitement, followed by ter- 
ror, prevailed. Bolts and bars were ineffectual against these emis- 
saries of supernatural power. 

The Accused. Feb. 29, 1691-2, warrants were duly issued 
igainst Sarah Good, Sarah Osburn, and Tituba, upon the complaint 
)f four men of influence and character. Sarah Good was a married 
woman, who lived apart from her husband, and by begging obtained 
1 precarious support for herself and children. No one cared for her 
and few manifested any pity for her poverty and forlorn condition. 
5arah Osburn had an unbalanced mind, and had become bed-ridden. 
-Ihe found as little sympathy among her neighbors as Sarah (xood. 
Fhe arrests were made, and on March 1; Jonathan Corwin and John 
Hathorne, two magistrates from Salem, came to the Village to ex- 
miine the prisoners. 

The "Witch House". Judge Corwin lived in what is now 
cnown as the "Witch House," at the western corner of North and 
Essex streets, and Colonel Hathorne on Washington street, where 
:he Holyoke Building, numbered 114, now stands. 

The Examination. With pomp .and display of ofticial power, 
:hey appeared at the meeting house, where a great number of people 
tvere gathered to witness the novel scene. Each of the accused was 
subjected to an examination by the magistrates based upon a fore- 
gone conviction of the prisoner's guilt. The accusing children were 
present during the hearing and frequently went into convulsions. 



14 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




'WITCH HOUSE," CORNER NORTH AND ESSEX STS. 
From a photograph made in 1856. 



which they attri- 
buted to one or 
other of the prison- 
ers. The husband 
of vSarah Good was 
present and shame- 
lessly testified 
against her. Sarah 
Osburn, frail in 
body and weak in 
mind, was next 
brought in and ex- 
amined. T i t u b a 
came last. She 
showed a lively 
imagination and 



was very clever, 
confessing enough 
to implicate others. She said that the devil variously appeared to her 
as a hog, a black dog, a yellow bird, a black girl ; and that the witch- 
es rode on sticks through the air, and immediately arrived wherever 
they chose to go. Neither time, distance nor matter hindered them. 

Sarah Good. Sarah Good was confined in the jail at Boston, in- 
dicted and tried in Salem in the last of June, and executed by 
hanging in Salem. July 19. 

Sarah Osburn was confined at first in the Ipswich jail and died 
in Boston iail while awaiting trial, in May, being too feeble to with- 
stand the privations of prison life. She probably lacked the merest 
necessaries of life even in her confinement, as prisoners were then 
required to be supported by themselves or their families. Tituba was 
never tried and after lying in jail thirteen months, was sold to pay 
her prison fees. 

Tituba had declared in her examination that there were two other 
witches whom she did not know and Parson Parris immediately and 



WITCHCRAFT DELUSION 



15 



untiringly sought their discovery. Accusers were brazen and mali- 
cious autocrats, allowing their spite and prejudice to prey upon 
whomsoever they would. x- / r 

Giles Corey. The unpopular octogenarian, Giles Corev, who 
lived on a spot near the present railroad station at West Peabody 
was greatly interested in the examinations, but his wife Martha did 
not wish him to attend them and objected to his going She was 
soon accused of witchcraft and her husband appeared against her 
bhe was tried and condemned, being executed bv hanging September 
22. After the trial the old man realized the grievous wrong he had 
done and did not escape the terrible 
charge himself, being arrested, and ex- 
amined April 19. When arraigned, he 
stood mute, refusing to plead. For two 
days friends vainly expostulated with 
him. Except he pleaded in answer to 
the charge against him, he could not be 
tried under the law that was then in 
force; and as provided in that law* he 
was subjected to compulsion which was 
no less than the placing of heavy weights 
upon his prostrate body until he an- 
swered—or died. This awful punishment was inflicted on Giles 
Corey at Salem, September 19, three days before his wife was hanged, 
and he endured his terrible agonv till" death brought relief. This 
event has no parallel in American history. Some think that he thus, 
purposely, expiated the wrong done to his worthy wife. 




GRAVESTONE OF JUDGE HATHORNE 
!N CHARTER ST. CEMETERY 



The law wa.s that the prisoner "be remanded to the prison from whence 
he came and put into a low. dark chamber, and there be laid on his back on 
the bare floor, naked, unless when decencv forbids: that there be placed 
upon his body as great a weight of iron as he could bear, and more that he 
hath no sustenance, save only on the first dav. three morsels of the worst 
bread, and on the second day three draughts of standing water, that should 
be nearest to the prison door, and in this situation this should be alternately 
his daily diet till he died, or — as anciently the .iudgmertt ran — till he an- 
swered." Chittv's Blackstone. IV., 265. 



15 visitor's guide to SALEM 

Rebecca Nurse. Who was the fourth woman whom Tituba said 
<he had seen afflict children?' The neighborhood was amazed at 
learning that Rebecca Nurse was the one accused. Seventy years of 
age and a woman of most exemplary character, she bore the exam- 
ination with patience and dignity. At her trial a paper, signed by 
thirty-nine persons of the neighborhood, testifying to her blameless 
life was offered in evidence. The jury returned a verdict of not 
'^uiity " but the judges yielded to the clamorous demand for blood 
and withdrew the favorable decision. She was condemned to die, and 
was executed by hanging, July 19. Her home is standmg on Pine 
street, in Danvers, and in the field below it, on Collms street, is the 
familv burial ground, in which her remains rest, having been brought, 
at the time, from the place of execution. In 1885, a granite monu- 
ment to her memory was erected, bearing a tribute from the pen of 
Whittier : — 

"O Christian Martyr ! who for truth could die, 

When all about thee owned the hideous Lie ! 

The world, redeemed from Superstition's sway, 

Is breathing freer for thy sake today." 

Hundreds of persons, in all, were accused and arrested, many of 
them being tried and condemned. 

The Tail The jail m Salem where the victims were confined 
was situated on the western side of St. Peter street then called 
PrLn lane, on the north side of what is now Federal street, near 
the house numbered 4 on that street, and that house is said to con- 
ahi some of the timbers of the old jail. Ihe ja,l was erec ed 
upon this site in 1683 and was taken down in 1813. Fhe eastern 
end of Federal street was originally a part of the jail lot. 

The Court House. The court house stood m the middle of 
Washington street, in front of the Masonic Temple. The trials oc- 
curred in the second story of the building, the first story being de- 
voted to the town school. It was erected from the frame of the first 
meSnrhouse for a town house, in 1675, in Town House square, 
■ Ts wfstedyof the First church, and was removed to this site m 



WITCHCRAFT DELUSION 



17 




TRIAL OF GEORGE JACOBS FOR WITCHCRAFT IN 1692. 
By Matteson. Essex Institute Picture Gallery. 

1677, the chamber being fitted for the use of the courts in May, 1679. 
It remained the town and court house until 1718. Opposite 
the site of that old court house, attached to the Masonic Temple, is 
a bronze tablet inscribed as follows : — 

"Nearly opposite this spot stood, in the middle of the street, a 
building devoted, from 1677 until 1718, to municipal and judicial 
uses. In it, in 1692, were tried and condemned for witchcraft most 
of the nineteen persons who suffered death on the gallows. Giles 
Corey was here put to trial on the same charge, and, refusing to 
plead, was taken away and pressed to death. In January, 1693, 
twenty-one persons Avere tried here for witchcraft, of whom eighteen 
■were acquitted and three condemned, but later set free, together with 
about 150 accused persons, in a general delivery which occurred in 
May." 



18 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

The Court. When the first accusations were made there was no 
settled government in the colony and therefore no legal court to try 
the persons imprisoned for witchcraft. The jails were filled with 
prisoners awaiting trial. Governor Phips arrived May 14, 1692, and 
the provincial charter that he brought empowered the General Court 
to create trial courts. But an election had to be held before the Gen- 
eral Court could act under the charter and establish courts to try the 
accused and an election required time. Governor Phips, as represen- 
tative of the king, in whom the power lay, appointed May 27, com- 
missioners of Oyer and Terminer, as they were called, to hear and 
decide the cases. The deputy-governor, William Stoughton, was 
named first, and presided as chief-justice. His associates were Na- 
thaniel Saltonstall of Haverhill, Maj. Bartholomew Gedney, John 
Hathorne and Jonathan Corwin of Salem, Maj. John Richards, Wait 
Winthrop, Peter Sargent and Capt. Samuel Sewall of Boston. Mr. 
Saltonstall withdrew from the court after the trial of Bridget Bish- 
op, as he would not take part in further proceedings of a like nature. 

Thomas Newton, a lawyer, was appointed as the special attorney 
of the king for the witchcraft cases, and prepared the earlier ones 
for the court. He afterwards resigned and Andrew Checkley was ap- 
pointed in his place. Checkley had been attorney general since 1689. 
George Corwin, nephew of Judge Corwin, was appointed sheriff, be- 
ing then twenty-six years of age, and living on the site of Hotel 
Washington, now numbered 150 Washington street. Stephen Sewall, 
brother of Judge Sewall, was the clerk. He lived at what is now the 
western corner of Sewall and Essex streets. 

The Condemned. The accused were first confined in the jails 
at Salem, Boston, Ipswich and Cambridge, most of them being im- 
prisoned in Boston, where capital trials had usually taken place. 
After the court was organized, persons accused of witchcraft and 
lying in other jails were transferred to Salem. The court held its 
first session June 2, for the trial of Bridget Bishop. She was con- 
victed and hanged June 1 0. At the court house can be seen the war- 
rant, signed by Judge Stoughton, and addressed to the sheriff, bear- 
incy the return that the latter had performed his duty. He stated in 



uence, ana pm 
/O ca/^ / "^'^ *^^^ afflictec 



WITCHCRAFT DELUSION 19 

his return on the warrant that she had been "hanged by the neck 
until she was dead and buried in the ground." But subsequently 
drawing his pen through the words "and buried in the ground." With 
this warrant may be seen the two massive volumes of original evi- 
dence, and pins of that time, such 
the afflicted testilied had been 
king their bodies, 
lose condemned at the 
subsequent sessions of the court, 
Sarah Good and Rebecca Nurse of 
Salem Village, Sarah Wildes of Topsfield, Elizabeth Howe of Ips- 
wich, and Susannah Martin of Amesbury, were executed July 19 ; 
Rev. George Burroughs of Wells, Me., John Proctor, George 
Jacobs, sr., and John Willard, all of Salem Village, and Martha 
Carrier of Andover, August 19; and Martha Corey of Salem Vil- 
lage, Mary Easty of Topsfield, Margaret Scott of Rowley, Alice 
Parker and Ann Pudeator of Salem, Wilmot Reed of Marblehead, 
and Samuel Wardwell and Mary Parker of Andover, September 22. 

Executions. Executions took place on four occasions, about a 
month apart, June 10, July 19, August 19, and September 22. Five 
persons were , hanged, August 19, four of whom were men, Rev. 
George Burroughs being one of the number, and Cotton Mather was 
present. Upon the ladder, Mr. Burroughs declared his innocence 
and prayed, closing with the Lord's prayer. This was done with so 
much calmness and excellence of spirit that the people were deeply 
affected. He had been a predecessor of Parson Parris in the Village 
church, and doubtless many of his old charge were present. As soon 
as Mr. Burroughs was executed, Mather, who was mounted upon a 
horse, addressed the people, endeavoring to persuade them that Bur- 
roughs was indeed worthy of his igno- 

x/ ' I r'f^ul '^fi-u 4J( ^^^ ^^^' ^'^^Pteniber 22, when the last 
/V > i^f^lA^ -•> ^ V* executions occurred, and eight per- 
sons were hanged, Rev. Nicholas 
Noyes, pastor of the Salem church, was present. Turning toward 
the bodies of the victims, he said, "What a sad thing it is to see 
eight fire-brands of hell hanging there." 



90 

VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



filled and the old road obliterated';^ n^etu ren'^l^ "^ t t s'^^ 
condition as when in that dreadful summer of 1609 tl 
were awfully and unjust! v deprived Tiff e ' "'"'''' P"^"" 

.V J I^eaction. Throughout the sessions of the court the trials 
were conducted m accordance with English law. As the summer ad 

red'aL'brouriVt: '^'^'rV'"'^'^'''' ^^^ respectabilirwere t 
cused and brought to trial. Knowmg Avho these people' were the 
court became more strict in the matter of proof and ''spectral' evi 
dence" was refused admission. For want of Igitimate evWeTce con- 
victions ceased, but not before the wife of Governor Phins and ?hp 
wife of the Rev. Mr. Hale of Beverly, who had urged oAe pros 
utions, had^ been accused. In May, 1693, Governor Phips ordered 
the release from jail of all persons accused of witchcraff whether 
under sentence or not, and hundreds returned to their homes Tha 

^:^^^ ''-' '-'-' '--''-' --^--^^ ^-- ^'- ^^'^ 

If there be any gleam of sunlight breakini; through the aloom it 
•nay be found in tins, that the executions a."sale,n gave he .teede 

;eth'7" " '™"'"'l'' ''"' P"' ^" '""»*'•"« and'eft-ectual „d to 

Ine whole inhuman work. 



CHAPTER III, 



THE COMMERCE OF SALEM. 

Fishing Industry. I'he maritime advantages of the situation of 
Salem and the enterprise and self-reliance of her inhabitants created 
that commercial activity of the town which ended only with the com- 
ing of the railroad and the building up of the great ports at the ex- 
pense of the less. The first settlers at Salem were sea-faring men, 
having been engaged in fishing at Cape Ann for three years. ' They 
were soon followed by others w^ho shortly engaged in trade with Eng- 
land and the West Indies. At the beginning of Endecott's govern- 
ment here he was directed by the home 
company to send to England as return 
cargoes, "staves, sarsaparilla, sumack, 
sturgeon and other fish and beaver." 
The waters of the harbor and rivers 
contained immense quantities of fish 
and for more than a century they were 
the staple export, Winter island being 
the headquarters of the fish trade. Even 
as late as the 19th century, salmon 
swam the North river in such numbers 
that they constituted the main article 
of animal food of the dwellers on its 
banks and the indentures of appren- 
tices contained a clause providing that 
they should not be compelled to eat salmon more than three times 
each week. 

Trade with West Indies. About 1640, vessels were sailing to 

(21) 




EARLY 18th CENTURY KETCH 



22 visitor's guide to salem 

Antigua and Barbadoes, some of the Leeward Islands and the large 
islands of the West Indies, the Bermudas, Virgina and England, and 
in 1644, Josselyn wrote that in Salem there "are many rich mer- 
chants." Within the next twenty-five years, trade was extended to 
Spain. France and Holland. The great majority of vessels then en- 
gaged in commerce from Salem were ketches, measuring from twenty 
to fortv tons burthen, and manned by four, five or six men each. In 
1689. Salem had on the water, one ship of eighty tons and another of 
two hundred, one bark, three sloops, and twenty ketches. 

Commerce in 1700. Higginson wrote of the trade here in 1700 
as follows: "Dry, merchantable codfish for the markets of Spain, 
Portugal and the Straights, refuse fish, lumber, horses and provisions 
for the West Indies. Returns made directly to England are sugar, 
molasses, cotton, wool, logwood, and Brasiletto-wood, for which 
we depend on the West Indies. Our own produce, a considerable 
quantity of whale and fish-oil, Avhalebone, furs, deer, elk and bear- 
skins are annually sent to England. We have much shipping here 
and rates are low." Commerce was continued in similar lines to the 
beginning of the Revolution. With the exception of Boston, Salem, 
Beverly and Marblehead, were the principal commercial ports of 
the Province, having most of the shipping. 

Revolutionary War. At the outbreak of the Revolutionary 
War the colonists found themselves at issue with the most powerful 
maritime nation of the world. Boston and New York were occupied 
by the enemy, and the success of the Americans Avas early believed to 
lie in the hands of the patriotic merchants of Salem bay. They soon 
recognized the exigency of the times and turned their vessels into 
privateers. Not only did they use the vessels already built, but the 
merchants had larger and better ones constructed, equipped and 
manned for this very service. During the war more than 158 vessels 
were thus sent out from Salem, They carried upward of 2000 guns 
and were manned by several thousand seamen. They took 44 5 prizes. 

The Far East. Upon the return of peace, the merchants found 
themselves possessed of many swift-sailing vessels larger than any 
they had used prior to the Revolution. They were too large to be 



THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 



23 




^: MimMTafMLM ^ 



SHIP "PRUDENT," BUILT IN 1799. 



profitably employed in domestic, commerce or in short voyages to 
European or West India ports, therefore the owners determined to 
send their vessels to new and more distant comitries, and to open 
trade with their peoples. Many hundred seamen were idle, most of 
them young and full of daring, and soon the snow-white sails of the 
merchant-ships of Salem were to be seen in every water of the then 
known world and Salem became famous in the uttermost parts, its 
name becoming as widely known as that of America. 

Adventures. Many of these voyages were not less exciting and 
dangerous than the experiences of the privateers in the Revolution. 
The history of the period is crowded with incidents of daring and ad- 



24 visitor's guide to salem 

venture in unknown seas and in ports never before visited by Ameri- 
cans ; of encounters with pirates and tribes of cruel and treacherous 
savages ; of contests with armed ships of France and England ; and 
of imprisonment among the Algerines and in the dungeons of France 
and vSpain. 

Navigation. It has already been said that the seamen were 
young. When the first vessel to the East Indies set sail from Salem, 
neither the captain nor his mates were out of their teens ; yet, with 
imperfect mathematical instruments, and without charts, except of 
their own making, they carried through coral reefs and along strange 
shores, ship and cargo safely to their destination. The importance 
of the position of these boys did not alone lie in the navigation of the 
vessel. They had the selling of the outward cargo and the purchase 
of another to bring home witn tliem. The wdiole financial success of 
the voyage depended upon them, as there was no communication with 
the owners during the year and a half covered by the voyage, and no 
news of them received at home until they came sailing' back again. 
The telegraphic cable long ago destroyed the romantic interest which 
the mystery of silence wove around these voyages. 

Derby Street. Derby street, the great commercial thoroughfare 
of the town, was filled with the bustle of business. Vessels crowded 
at the wharves, having their cargoes of silk from India, tea from 
China, pepper from Sumatra, coffee from Arabia, spices from Ba- 
tavia, gum-copal from Zanzibar, and hides from Africa, removed to 
the warehouses, while others were being laden with American goods 
for the foreign trade. At every lounging place on every street cor- 
ner, and about the doors of the numerous sailor boarding houses were 
seamen fresh from Eastern countries, and others about to sail thither, 
having all the peculiarities of the true rover of the seas. The shops 
and stores were full of strange and unique articles, brought from 
distant lands. Parrots screamed and monkeys and other small ani- 
mals from foreign forests gamboled at will in the back shops. Sug- 
gestions of foreign lands met the vision at every turn. Many of the 
curiosities and oriental objects now preserved in the Peabody Museum 
were brought home on these voyages. The ship "America," Capt. 



THE COIMMERCK 



SALE^r 



25 




SHIP "MARGARET," BUILT IN 1800. 

Jacob Crowninshield of Salem, master and owner, brought home from 
Bengal, in 1796, the first elephant that was ever seen in the United 
States. Salem, for many years, was one of the principal ports for the 
distribution of foreign merchandise. In the year 1800, more than 
eight million pounds of sugar were imported and sold to traders from 
various sections of the country. The streets were alive with teams 
loaded with goods. Draft wagons and drays, came from long dis- 
tances, sometimes more than a hundred miles, for all merchandise 
had to be transported overland in this arduous and tedious manner. 
In the taverns, teamsters from many parts of northwestern New Eng- 
land were ever to be found discussing politics or current news, or be- 
coming cheerful over frequent potations of New England rum, which 
was then manufactured in Salem in great quantities. 



26 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




SHIP "GRAND TURK," BUILT IN 178L 



Cape of Good Hope. The 

Cape of Good Hope trade Avas 
also opened in 1784 and the first 
■\-oyage was made in the "Grand 
Turk," a fast-sailing ?hip of 
three hundred tons, built for 
Elias Hasket Derby, in 1781. 
as a privateer, carrying twenty- 
Uyo guns. In 1784, Mr. Derby 
dispatched this vessel, under 
command of Capt. Jonathan In- 
gersoll, on the iirst voyage from 
Salem to the Cape, the exporta- 
tion being New England rum. 
and the return cargo Granada 
riim. 

China. The next year 
(1785) Mr. Derby opened the 
trade with China by sending to 
Canton the "Grand Turk," 
which was then commanded bv 



Russia. The first new 
trade opened after the Revo- 
lution, was with Russia. In 
1784, the bark "Light Horse," 
commanded by Capt. Buffing- 
ton, opened the American 
trade at St. Petersburg. The 
trade with that country became 
extensive, but greatly declined 
after the embargo in 1808. The 
last entry in Salem of a cargo 
from Archangel was in 1820; 
from Cronstadt. in 1836; and 
from St. Petersburg, in 1843. 




ELIAS HASKET DERBY 
By Frothingham. Peabody Museum. 



THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 



27 




SHIP "BELISAKIUS," BUILT IN 1794. 

Capt. Ebenezer West. He there competed with the European syndi- 
cates of merchants for the native trade. The ship "Grand Turk" 
Avas also the first New England vessel to open trade with the Dutch 
of the Isle of France. This was in 1787. Sugar was the principal 
article of Dutcii exportation. In 1794, the ship "Aurora" brought 
from there a cargo of 424,034 pounds of sugar, it being consigned 
to William Gray. 

East Indies. The East India trade was also opened by Mr. 
Derby, in 1788, by the ship "Atlantic," which was commanded by his 
son. This was the first vessel to display the American ensign at 
Bombay and Calcutta. The next year, he imported the first cargo of 
Bombay cotton brought to this country. In 1798, the ship "Belisarius" 
brought a cargo of sugar and coffee from Calcutta and the Isle of 



28 



visitor's guide to SALEM 



France. In 1803, the ship "Lucia" brought from Calcutta, a cargo 
cf sugar, indigo and cheroots, jju which the duty was $24,001.08. In 
1805, the ship "Argo" brought a cargo of sugar, from the same port, 
on which the duty was $32,799.47. In 1812, a duty of $51,526.33 was 
paid on the cargo of the "Restitution," from Calcutta. The Calcutta 
trade was afterwards carried on principally by Joseph Peabody, in 
the famous ship "George," which made twenty-one voyages to Cal- 
cutta, the sum of $651,743.32 duties being paid on her cargoes. 

Java and Japan. The iirst American vessel to open trade with 
Batavia was the Salem brig "Sally," Benjamin Webb, master, in 
1796, who brought home pepper and sugar. The ship "Margaret," 
Samuel Derby, master, was the first (1802) Salem vessel, and third 
American vessel to visit Japan; and the ship "Franklin" of Boston, 
commanded by Capt. James Devereux of Salem, was the first Ameri- 
can vessel to trade with Japan,, 
though commercial intercourse 
was not opened between the two 
countries until half a century 
later. 

Pepper Trade. Salem mer- 
chants sent the first vessel that 
ever sailed direct from this 
country to Sumatra, and the 
first to bring a cargo of pepper 
from that island. This trade 
originated in the discovery in 
1793, by Capt. Jonathan 
Carnes that pepper grew wild 
on the northwestern coast of 
Sumatra. He sailed for Jona- 
than Peele, who at once built 
the schooner "Rajah" and sent 
Capt. Carnes to Sumatra for a 
cargo of pepper. For the pur- 
wiLLiAM GRAY posc of trade, he took a cargo 

After Stuart. Peabody Museum. 




THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 29 

of brandy, gin, iron, tobacco and salmon, and in 1796, brought back 
the first cargo of pepper to be imported into this country in bulk. 
The cargo sold at seven hundred per cent, profit. The merchants 
vv-ere greatly excited over Mr. Peele's success, and endeavored to 
learn where the pepper had been obtained, but it was kept a secret 
for several years. The ship "Eliza." James Cook, master, brought 
ftom Sumatra, a cargo of 1,012,148 pounds of pepper, on Avhich a 
duty of $66,903.90 was paid. At one time the trade with Sumatra 
was almost entirely carried on by Salem merchants, and a large pro- 
portion of the pepper consumed was obtained at. and through the 
port of Salem, which was the distributing point for that article to 
all countries. Cargoes of pepper were regularly brought to Salem 
from Sumatra until 1846. Salem vessels were at Sumatra for the 
last time in 1860 and the last American vessel that visited that coast 
was commanded by a Salem captain. This was in 1867. 

Manila. The Manila tracle was opened in 1796. The ship 
"Astrea." Henry Prince, master, returned to Salem that year with a 
cargo of 75,000 pounds of sugar, 63,695 pounds of pepper and 29,- 
767 pounds of indigo, the import duty being $24,020. The ship "St. 
Paul" was almost as famous in the Manila trade as was the ship 
"deorge" in the Calcutta trade. The last entry in Salem from Mani- 
la was the bark "Dragon" in 1858, with a cargo of hemp. 

Mocha. The Mocha trade was opened in 1798 by the ship "Re- 
covery," Joseph Ropes, master, vrhich was the first American vessel 
to displav the stars and stripes in that part of the world. The ship 
"Franklin." in 1808, brought from there a cargo of 532,365 pounds 
of coffee, consigned to Joseph Peabodv, on which was paid a duty of 
$26,618.25. 

The Embargo. Trade with all those distant shores was firmly 
established and at its height, when, in 1808, the embargo was placed 
upon our seaports. The whole trade was thus suddenly stopped, in 
some instances never to be reopened ; and in all its branches to be 
pursued with less vigor and in a less degree. The trade in wine and 
brandy with Spain and Portugal, which had continued for a century, 
was wholly stopped by the embargo, the last entry being in 1809 



30 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




SHIP "ST. PAUL," BUILT IN 1833. 

from Bilboa. Of the trade with other European ports, the last entry 
from Bordeaux occurred in 1815, from Copenhagen in 1816, from 
Amsterdam in 1823, from Hamburg in 1828, from Rotterdam in 
1834, froni Antwerp m 1836, from Gottenburg in 1837, from Mar- 
seilles in 1833, from Messina in 1831 and from Leghorn in 1841. 

Fiji Islands. The Fiji Islands trade was first opened in 1811, by 
the bark "Active," Capt. William P. Richardson, and was continued 
until 1854, when the bark "Dragon" brought from there a cargo of 
1 170 bales of hemp. 

The first American vessel to trade at Madagascar was the Salem 
brig "Beulah," Charles Forbes, master, in 1820. In 1827, Salem 
merchants extended this trade to Zanzibar. Gum-copal was its staple 
article of export. The last cargo to arrive at vSalem from Zanzibar, 



THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 31 

was entered in 1870. The Australian trade was commenced in 1832, 
by the Salem ship "Tybee," Charles Millet, master, at Sydney. She 
was the first American vessel to enter Australian ports. The trade 
came to an end in 1837. Considerable trade was carried on with 
Nova Scotia from about 1840 to 1857, and for nearly ten years fol- 
lowing 1837, Salem was engaged in the whale fisheries. 

Commercial Decline. Among the places early traded with by 
the colonists, the last entry from the West Indies was from Havana 
in 1854, and the last from the Rio Grande was in 1870, The South 
American trade, which also began early, finally ended in 1877. The 
last entry from Para occurred in 1861, the cargo consisting of rub- 
ber, hides, cocoa, coffee and castana nuts. The trade with Montevido, 
in hides and horns, which began in 1811, also ended in 1861. The 
sugar trade with Pernambuco ended in 1841. Trade on the west 
coast of Africa, which began soon after the close of the Revolution 
by conveying thither New England rum, gun-powder, and tobacco, 
closed in 1873. The increase in the size of ships, which the harbor 
of Salem could not accommodate, together with the development of 
railroads and the building up of centers of trade, all contributed to 
the decline of Salem's commerce. 

The whole aspect of the old maritime section of Salem is now 
changed. Some of the old shops on Derby street remain, dingy and 
worn, and some of the warehouses nearby were destroyed in the great 
fire of 1914 and others have been transformed into coal sheds, coal 
being now the principal article of importation, but the influence of 
the energy, enterprise, fearlessness and far-sightedness of the old- 
time merchants will remain for centuries. 



CHAPTER IV. 



SALEM ARCHITECTURE. 



Architectural Periods. To the student of architecture, the 
buildings in Salem arrange themselves into four classes. First, those 
very old houses, built by early settlers in the most primitive times, 
possessing all the dignity and simplicity and, withal, the barrenness 
of the Puritan character and round which cluster many strange and 
curious traditions ; second, those built between the earlier years of 
the 18th century and the beginning of the Revolution, exhibiting 
the influence of the architect from over-seas and usually containing 
fine interior wood finish ; third, those built in post-Revolutionary 
clays, usually by rich merchants and ship owners, when Salem had be- 
come an important commercial centre, and in which the "colonial" 
style is exhibited in its very flower ; and fourth, those purely modern 
structures — confused, chaotic — which have sprung up everywhere re- 
placing the earlier types. 

Pickering House. Oi the older buildings a number of excellent 
examples have survi\-ed. The oldest, without doubt, is the Picker- 
ing house (18 Broad street) which is one of the few remaining ex- 
amples of the many-gabled houses with steep roofs evidently built in 
imitation of the Gothic half-timbered cottages of England. The 
steep roof was very common in early days, at first a necessity because 
of the use of thatch as a covering, and later surviving as a fashion of 
the earlier period. This house was erected in 1660 by John Picker- 
ing and has been inhabited ever since by his lineal descendants. The 
present "peaked windows" and the exterior finish were added in 1841 
when extensive alterations were made. An iron fireback for a fire- 
place in this house, cast in 1660 by Elisha Jenks of Saugus, the first 
iron founder in the colonies, is preserved at the Essex Institute. 

(32) 



SALEM ARCHITECTURE ^^ 

The Witch House, at the corner of North and Essex streets 
was standing in part at least, in 1675 when the chimneys were taken 
down and the building remodelled. In this hou e S onI?han 
Corwin one of the judges of the witchcraft court, an7Sre some of 

he preliminary witchcraft examinations were he d. iryet retains 
the overhanging second story but is greatly defaced by a modem 
drug store which grows out of its side like some excrescence Tndta 
tive of age and disease. From this drug store it is possible to pass" 

hrough an arch in the great chimney which is about nvely by eLl 
feet in dimensions at the first floor. In the Corwin manuscript ^ow 
m possession of the Essex Institute, is preserved the origmaTcoLrac^ 
for finishmg this house in 1674-5. It is a very earW examnle of 

so" ft"?^mf;:'^^^r^ ^^ "°^ ''''''-' '^ the'diifuse'ness^^^b 
follows documents at the present time. It reads as 

"Articles and Covenants made, agreed upon, and confirmed be 

dTewL' SaieT'of'th?;:"' ^' '^^^"^' "^'^^-^' and'Sef An-" 
are^^s ot balem, of the other part, concerning a parcell of worke p<. 

followeth, VIZ. : Imprimis the said parcell of worke is o be bes owed 

in filling plaistering and finishing a certain dweling house bought 

by the said owner of Capt. Nath'll Davenport of Bost'on and is lu 

t L't" tcTtbr^i? '^' ^'''' '"^ °^ *^ towCbenvS::; 

the east and k to h f ° '^"f '"'l' ^"^ Deliverance Parkman on 

'•r TK. !i n Pf/^'""'^ '^ '^-''^ following directions, viz 

as ti; ^^:r^^'^:^s^^:':^f^:^^:^^ '-^^ 

according to the breadthe and len^^the of it ? ic^tZl!^ 'T'' 

in height and to underpin the po^^h^nd 2 rem nmf ^^L^of'th^ 

or?he"noX:id:'of'X'r^ '^ '-''''''-' ^^^° ^^ -derpn.?he k?tch n 
on tne north side of the house, not exceeding one foot • the said 

kitchen bemg 20 foot long and 18 foot wide; and to make steos wi h 

stones mto the cellar in two places belonging to the Cellar to' e^her 

with stone stepps up into the porch. 2. ^^For the chiWys Ti to 

take down the chimneys which are now standing, and to^ take and 

make up of the bricks that are now in the chimS ys and the stoned 



34 visitor's guide to salem 

that are in the leanto cellar that now is, and to rebuild the said 
chimneys with iive fire places, viz.,' two below and two in the cham- 
bers and one in the garret ; also to build one chimney in the kitchen, 
with ovens and. a furnace, not exceeding five feet above the top of the 
house. 3. He is to set the jambs of the two chamber chimneys and 
of the easternmost room below with Dutch tiles, the said owner find- 
ing the tiles • also to lay all the hearths belonging to the said house 
and to point the cellar and underpinning of sd. house and so much of 
the 3 hearths as are to be laid with Dutch tiles, the said owner is to 
find them. 4. As for lathing and plaistering he is to lath and siele 
the 4 rooms of the house betwixt the joists overhead with a coat of 
lime & haire upon the clay; also to fill the gable ends of the house 
with bricks and to plaister them with clay. 5. To lath and plaister the 
partitions of the house with clay and lime, and to fill, lath and plais- 
ter with bricks and clay the porch and porch chamber and to plaister 
them with lime and hair besides ; and to siele and lath them overhead 
with lime ; also to fill lath and plaister the kitchen up to the wall 
plate on every side. 6. The said Daniel Andrews is to find lime, 
bricks, clay, stone, haire, together with labourers and workmen to help 
him, and generally all materials for the effecting and carrying out of 
the aforesaide worke, excepte laths and nailes. 7. The whole work 
before mentioned is to be done, finished and performed att or before 
the last day of August next following provided that said Daniel or 
any that work with him, be not lett or hindered for want of the car- 
penter worke. 8. Lastly in consideration of all the aforesaid worke, 
so finished and accomplished as is aforesaid, the aforesaid owner is 
to pay or cause to be paid unto the said workeman, the summe of 
fifty pounds in money current in New England, to be paid at or be- 
fore the finishing of the said Avorke. And for the true performance 
of the premises we bind ourselves each to other, our heyers, executors, 
and administrators, firmly by these presents, as witnesse our hands, 
this nineteenth day of February, Anno Domini 1674-5. 

"Jonathan Corwin. 
Daniel Andrewe." 



SALEM ARCHITEC-JURE 35 

17th Century Houses. Most of the 17th century dwellin-s built 
m Salem were plain and prim. The huge bulk of the chimSev oc- 
cupied the centre of the house. Two rooms on the first floor tw-o o-i 
the second, and an unfinished attic, supplied the needs of the aver- 
age family. With the necessity for more room came the lean-to a 
one-story addition, built on one side of the house and introduci'no 
the long sloping roof. An excellent example of this type of dwell^ 
mg may be seen m the Nar bonne house (71 Essex street) which wa« 
built before 1671. The dutch door in the lean-to at the end towards 
the street, formerly was the entrance to a "cent shop," a Salem insti- 
tution of seventy-five years ago which has been intimately pictured 
m Hawthorne's "House of the Seven Gables." The house built in 
1684 by John Ward, and now preserved in the garden of the Essex 
Institute, is of similar type, save that it preserves the overhanging^ 
second story, the best example now to be seen in Salem. A similar 
house containing interesting carved timbers may be seen in the <Tar- 
den at the '-Home of the Seven Gables" (54 I'urner street) it having 
been removed from its original location, 23 Washington street It 
was built m the spring of 1683 by Benjamin Hooper. The original 
portion extends only as far as the second story overhangs the first 
the large chimney being at the eastern end. The spaces between the 
studding are filled with bricks set in clay and laths split from the 
log are still found in the attic stairway. The oaken corner posts are 
shouldered and the chamfered edges of the exposed timbers exhibit 
an attempt at carved ornamentation while the erids of the timbers 
supporting the overhanging second story are carved into a bracket 
form and are embellished in a simple yet attractive manner Two 
generations ago there existed in Salem many fine examples of this 
early period now supplanted by modern buildings and the student 
who may wish to pursue this subject further will find much informa- 
tion m local historical publications and in the collections of photo- 
graphs and drawings preserved at the Essex Institute 

Early 18th Century Houses. The type of dwelling that began 
to be erected m the latter part of the first half of the 18th century 
shows marked differences from the steep-roofed, low studded houses 



36 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

of the earlier period. Tlie finely illustrated works of famous Eu- 
ropean architects were finding their way into the hands of the New 
England carpenter-architects and the increasing wealth of the Pro- 
vincial merchants was demanding for them larger and better houses, 
fitted to a more luxurious style of living. It is natural, therefore, 
that the older type of house should have been set aside and tran- 
Atlantic fashions in building have been modified and engrafted upon 
our soil. The best houses built during those years of development, 
for of course it is only the best houses which are to be considered as 
worthy of being included in any architectural classification, were 
square, box-shaped structures, with mansard roofs. With these 
houses came the introduction of fine interior finish with spleiidid 
staircases and delicately carved newel-posts and balusters. _ i he 
staircase with a broken flight and landing-window was also intro- 
duced afterwards developing into the direct run with a curved up- 
per portion, or even into a full spiral from the base. Only a few ot 
these fine old mansions have survived the changes of taste and the 
necessities of business. The best example, although the doorway is a 
recent adaptation, is the Cahot-Endicott-Low house (365 Essex street) 
which was buih by Joseph Cabot in 1748 after designs supplied it s 
said bv an English architect. The Pickman house (rear of 165 Es- 
sex 'street) built in 1743 bv Col. Benjamin Pickman, is another ex- 
iellent example although now despoiled of its beautiful interior 
finish and partly concealed from view by low wooden buildmgs used 
as stores Still another house of this period may be seen at the corner 
o Derb; and Herbert streets. It was built about 1740 and long oc- 
cupied by the Derby and Ward families, prominent merchants of 

^"^Post-Revolutionary Houses. Of the third period into which the 
architecture of Salem mav be divided there is a wealth of example, 
'id the ranger with an eye for the beautiful wil not fail to be im- 
pressed wth the architectural stateliness of many of the houses erected 
rcSnturv ago They are not. strictly speaking, of the colonial period, 
Lt bdoTig to the tiLe when Salem was mistress of the seas, when her 
comm r e%eached its high-water mark in the years between the close 



SALEM ARCHITECTURE 37 

of the Revolution and the second decade of the 19th century. Most 
of the finest of these old houses were built during that period. They 
reflect the hopeful spirit, the wide outlook, and the fine taste of the 
early years of the republic. Nothing quite like these old dwellings 
is to be found in domestic architecture outside of New England, 
and nowhere in so large a number and perfection as in Salem. They 
are built of wood or brick, invariably three stories in height with the 
third story foreshortened and are square or oblong, with a hipped 
roof crowned by a deck usually surrounded by a decorative balustrade 
of posts and palings. The owners of these houses if not themselves 
shipmasters were or had been ship owners, and felt the need of an 
elevated place from which they might watch for the incoming of their 
latest "venture." In fact, the deck roof is but an architectural modi- 
fication of the cupola which, in simple or complex form, is a common 
feature of the architecture of seacoast towns of New England. An 
interesting example of the use of the cupola formerly could be seen 
on the Pickman-Derhy-Brookhouse mansion (70 Washington street) 
built in 1764. The house was taken down in 1915 to make way for 
the Masonic Temple and the cupola is now preserved in the garden 
in the rear of the Essex Institute. In one of the windows of the cu- 
pola a space is left through which a spy-glass could be used to watch 
for incoming ships. The arched ceiling of this "look out" is decor- 
ated with a fresco picturing the fleet of vessels owned by the wealthy 
occupant. 

Porches and Doorways. The severe architectural lines of these 
houses are sometimes relieved by broad horizontal bands of brick- 
work at each floor-level or by pilasters at the corners and often by a 
simple form of window ornamentation. But the chief external deco- 
ration of what would otherwise be a facade plain almost to barren- 
ness is the porch or doorway. Upon this is expended a high degree 
of art. The fine effect of these old porches and doorways is due to 
their harmony of form and proportion and also to the beautiful wood 
carving which they display. The adaptation of the Grecian column in 
its varied forms gives to them great dignity and a large degree of 
originality and discrimination is often displayed. The carving of the 



^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

capitals also in many instances is most artistic in design and execu- 
tion. ^ 

The carving on these Salem porches is not confined to the capitals 
ol the columns, but adorns the architrave— as on the porch of the old 
Assembly House (138 Federal street) with its tasteful grapevine 
pattern. Sometimes the carving is on the pediment or is arranged 
about the door itself, as in the dainty work over the door of the Kim- 
hall Jioiise (14 Pickman street). For simple grace and a certain 
Puritan charm of aspect the most attractive of all Salem doorways 
are those narrow ones M-ith plain or fluted pilasters on either side 
surmounted by a pediment, the dark panelled door offset with bur- 
nished brass knocker and handle and protected oftentimes by long 
green blinds. The most elaborate of the doorways of this variety is 
that of the Cabot-Endicott-Loiu house (365 Essex street) the recent- 
Iv added pediment of which is richly carved. But there are many at- 
tractive examples of a similar design on smaller houses — picturesque 
and inviting. But the type of porch which wins universal admiration 
for its gracefulness and charm of outline is the semi-circular porch 
of which the Andreiv-Safford mansion (13 Washington square) and 
the Tucker-Rice house, now the clubhouse of the Father Ivlathew So- 
ciety (129 Essex street) afford the best examples. The latter is now 
preserved in the garden of the Essex Institute. No porch is so suc- 
cessful as this type in softening the severity of outline of these old- 
time mansions. 

Besides these typical forms there are certain individual doorways 
like the old pineapple doorway, formerly in Brown street court, and 
now preserved in the Essex Institute Museum ; the fine porch of the 
Col. George Peahody house, now the home of the Salem Club (29 
Washington square) , remarkable for the beauty of its carved Corin- 
thian capitals; the porch of the Silsbee house (35 Washington 
square) with chaste Ionic columns; and the Peirce-Nichols Jwuse 
(80 Federal street), the porch standing just within high gate-posts 
crowned with shapely urns. These, with many others, invite inspec- 
tion. 

Woodcarving. The art of wood carving was developed in Salem 
to a high degree of perfection in the later years of the 18th and the 




W'-^^iwm^ms^m 





" j '" ^wW 9^mrm^i»^im MM^, 




SALEM ARCHITECTURE 41 

early years of the 19th centuries, in connection with shipbuilding 
which attracted skilled wood carvers who found constant employment 
m the busy yards. It was their creative art that produced the decora- 
tive mouldings that adorned the ship's cabin. They also fashioned 
the figureheads that gave dignity and individuality to the bow of 
every merchantman. 

Samuel Mclntire, who died in 1811, was the most accomplished 
of the Salem wood-carvers. Several examples of his skill may be 
seen at the Essex Institute : — a medallion head of Washington, for- 
merly a decoration on the Conmion gate; an eagle that spread its 
wings before the custom house on Central street; a mantel taken 
from the old Registry of Deeds building, and various architectural 
details. Mclntire was also an architect of great ability and designed 
the South church (destroyed by fire in 1903) and the 'famous Derby 
mansion (taken down about 1814). He also submitted plans in 
competition for the capital at Washington, the original drawings now 
being preserved by the Maryland Historical Society. Of the many 
houses in Salem which he designed, the best examples now standing 
are the Peirce-Nichoh house (80 Federal street) and the Whitc-Pin- 
gree house (128 Essex street) the interior finish in both being re- 
markably fine. 

Interior Wood Finish. In houses of such dignity and refine- 
ment there is, of course, much beautiful interior woodwork, the stair- 
case being the crowning feature with newel posts, rails and balusters 
carved with infinite delicacy. The box-stairs while not a feature pe- 
culiar to Salem, here may be found in great variety of treatment, 
and particular attention is always given to the stair-ends. A curious 
and interesting example of the latter existed in former times in the 
Pickman house (165 Essex street), built in 1743, yet standing but 
despoiled of its interior finish. The owner having amassed a for- 
tune in the fisheries, caused the stair-ends of the front staircase to be 
finished with a carved and gilded cod fish, indicative of the source 
of his affluence. One of these carved fishes is preserved in the museum 
of the Essex Institute. An archway with fluted columns taken from 
this house, is preserved at the Essex Institute, where it breaks 



SALEM ARCHITECTURE 43 

the wall between the picture gallery and the museum. This 
interior woodwork was always made of white pine which grew 
m abundance along the New England coast. No wood is more de- 
lightful to work and few woods better withstand the passage of time. 
But however responsive the medium it was the skill, ingenuity, and 
mathematical knowledge displayed in working out the turned and 
twisted newell posts and balusters that contributed most to the fine 
result. The variety and delicacy of design exhibited in this carved 
work make the Salem staircase incomparably more interesting than 
staircases found elsewhere. The staircase leading to the galleries in 
the museum hall of the Essex Institute was taken from a house on 
Charter street, built in 1773, and is a fine example of the work of 
that period. 

Ship Carvers. It has already been suggested that much of this 
interior finish was the handiwork of the carvers employed in the 
local shipyards. Aside from their dexterity in handling carving tools 
which was not so likely to be acquired by any class of artisan other 
than the ship carvers, the fact that these twisted balusters are so 
evidently based upon rope forms would remind one that these carvers 
habitually made use of the rope-moulding, both hawser-laid and 
cable-laid, in cabin fittings and in the flamboyant decorations about 
the old-fashioned cabin galleries and the figureheads at the bow, and 
it would not be difficult for the ingenious-minded man to pass from 
the cutting of a cable-laid moulding to the working out of a twisted 
newel post. Much of the refinement and delicacv of work may be at- 
tributed, however, to the temperamental and inherited conscientious- 
ness of the Yankee workman and that peculiar wide-awakeness and 
native ingenuity which causes the artisans of their blood to work with 
their heads as much as with their hands and with all their perceptions 
on the alert to do things in the best way. 



CHAPTER V. 



HAWTHORNE. 



THREE things more than all others draw the visitor to Salem: 
the romantic interest connected with the East India commerce 
and the old-time ships ; the weird fascination of the Avitchcraft 
delusion ; the birthplace of Hawthorne, the spots associated with his 
life and the places referred to in his works. The latter is perhaps a 
greater attraction than either of the others and to aid the visitor in 
his searches here, this chapter has been prepared. As those familiar 
with Hawthorne's writings well know the places described in his 
stories and sketches are idealized and often glorified by the wealth 
of his vivid imagination, and this the visitor should always keep in 
mind when looking upon the bare reality of the scenes which sug- 
gested his fancies. 

Thoughtless critics who, perhaps, have themselves but lately dis- 
covered Hawthorne, often condemn Salem for not sooner apprecia- 
ting its native author. But why should Salem have seen what no 
one else saw? 

Hawthorne left Salem, finally, in 1850, before the publication of 
the "Scarlet Letter." He was retiring in disposition to the point of 
shyness, — objected to being lionized, and shrank ungraciously from 
social attentions. He had almost always written anonymously, and 
was comparitively unknown to the world, and when he did gain pub- 
lic recognition, having changed the familiar spelling of his name 
from Hathorne to Hawthorne, the name was supposed, even by old 
friends, to be an assumed one. 

This love of seclusion was a family trait, and Hawthorne's life 

(44) 




NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE 

Class silhouette at Bowdoin College, 1S25. 



NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE 
By G. P. A. Healey in 1852. 




NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE 
By Charles Osgood in 1840. 




NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE 
After photograph about 1S63. 
Essex Institute Picture Gallery. 



46 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

was surrounded by its influences, — the grieving widowed mother and 
the shrinking sister, — and the wcmder is that the elTect was not se- 
riously injurious to that hfe. A remote connection of Hawthorne, 
writing in the New York Observer in 1887 in describing her visits 
to the Herbert-street house, among many other interesting reminis- 
cences of Hawthorne's boyhood, says : "I never heard him allude to 
school life, or mention any boy companions. In neither of my visits 
did I meet boy or girl of my own age. I believe that his surround- 
ings favored his love of isolation, and made him the author of the 
'Marble Faun.' " 

Periods of Residence. Nathaniel Hawthorne was born in the 
house now numbered 27 Union street, Salem, July 4, 1804. In 1808 
his widowed mother, with her children, removed to a house directly 
at the rear of this, but facing Herbert, the next street to the eastward 
and parallel to Union; it has since then been remodeled for a tene- 
ment house and numbered 10 1-2 and 12. He lived here until 1818, 
then at Raymond, Maine ; for a short time, returning to the Herbert- 
.«treet house in 1819-20. He was at Bowdoin College, 1821 to 182.S, 
and it was at about this last date that the w first appeared in his 
name. He was after this at the Herbert-street house a short time ; then 
from 1828 to 1832 in a house on Dearborn street, now removed to a 
site opposite the spot upon which it originally stood and numbered 26. 
He was in the Herbert-.street house in 1838, and again for short pe- 
riods in 1840 and 1846. In 1839 and 1840 he was in the Boston 
Custom House and resided in Boston. In 1841, he was at Brook 
Farm. He married Sophia Amelia Peabody in Boston, July 9, 1842, 
and went to live at the "Old Manse," Concord, Mass., where their 
eldest daughter, Una, was born. He came back to Salem in the fall 
of 1845, was appointed surveyer of the Port of Salem and Beverly, 
1846, and his son Julian was born in Boston during that year. While 
serving at the Salem Custom House he lived first in the old home- 
stead in Herbert street, then in the house numbered 18 Chestnut street 
and finally in the house numbered 14 Mall street. He lost the Cus- 
tom House position m 1849, and was in Lenox in 1850-51, where 
his younger daughter. Rose, — Mrs. Lathrop, was born. He lived in 



HAWTHORNE 



4: 



A TALE. 



• Will tk» go ea nilh n» r"— BQDTHIt- 



BOSTON: 

KtStH t CtSEH.tei WASmHOTON STREET. 



FANSHAWE, ^^est Newton, where the "Blithedale Ro- 
mance" was written, m 1851-52, and settled 
in his last American home, the "Wayside," in 
Concord, in 1852. He became American Con- 
sul at Liverpool in 1853, and retained that 
office until 1857. He then travelled in Italy, 
rested in Rome and Florence, and returned to 
England, where, in 1859, he completed the 
"Marble Faun." In July, 1860, he returned 
to the "Wayside," where he passed the few 
remaining years of his life. He died quietly 
in his sleep in the early morning hours of 
May 1*^, 1864, at the Pemigewasset House, at 
Plymouth, N. H., while travelling for his 
health with his old friend and classmate, ex- 
President Pierce. He ' was buried four days 
later in "Sleepy Hollow," Concord, Mass. 
,„-.,,v^^. „...„. The Birthplace. Hawthorne was born in 

Title Page of Hawthorne's the northwest chamber in the second story of 
First Romance. ^^^q gambrel-roofed house, now numbered 27, 

an the eastern side of Union street. The house was built prior to 
the time of the witchcraft delusion by one of several Salem citizens 
ft'ho have borne the name of Benjamin Pickman. It came into the 
posession of the grandfather of Hawthorne in 1772, and, with the 
exception of a modern front door with long glass panels, and of 
[nodern windows, the house is in about the same condition as when 
the great author was born. In 1808 Hawthorne's father died at 
Surinam, while on a voyage in command of the "Nabby," and the 
family removed to the 

Herbert Street House (now numbered 10^ and 12) then owned 
by Hawthorne's maternal grandfather, Richard Manning. This house 
was built about 1 790 ; it faces on Herbert street, but adjoins the "Birth- 
place" at the rear. It is stated in Mrs. Elizabeth Manning's article 
an "The Boyhood of Hawthorne," in the "Wide Awake" for No- 
vember, 1891, that Hawthorne's room was in the southwest corner 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




BIRTHPLACE OF NATHANIAL HAWTHORNE, 27 UNION STREET. 

of the third story, overlooking his birthplace," and that "he 
scratched his name with a diamond" on a pane of glass in one of its 
AAindows.''' 

It is the chamber in this Herbert-street house which is referred to 
in the "American Notes" under the date 1836, — and not the one in 
the Union-street house, as stated by the editor, — in the sentence: "In 
this dismal chamber FAME was won," and again in the often- 
quoted letter written October 4, 1840: "Here I sit in my old accus- 
tomed chamber where I used to sit in days gone by. Here I have 
written many tales. . . . Should I have a biographer he ought to 
make great mention of this chamber in my memoirs, because so much 
of my lonely youth was -wasted here." This chamber is again re- 
ferred to in a humorous vein: — "Salem, April, 1843. . . . Here I 
am, in my old chaml:)er, where I produced those stupendous works 

* This pane has been removed and is now in possession of the Manning 
family. 



HAWTHORNE .g 



carpets! 'There' e! w II Zu '^ ^f^^^^ting the tattered old 
slumbered, and wh re^K^ " s "td'h ".J^'' ""V ^'^ ^^ ^'^^^^^ he 

he afterwards ti.ed W r n'^ owin^ t's'^'Tr' ^'-^"f' ^^'^^^^^^ 
stand at which this ev^ltPri ' f ''"'^ ^^ords. There is the wash- 
stains of eart^anfrendted h^rT^^'^'^^^^^^ ^™^^^f f^°^^ the 
the pure soul ^i2V The' tif.f "'""/ ^""^^ exponent of 
glass which often reflected th ^'^ "^^^S^^^y f^^^e, is the dressing- 
that mouth briSt w' h mi es o"t ^T'' '''T ^^y^^^^thine lock's, 
ing or melting eye hat- nsll^''^^^' '''''^' ^'"^"^S' ^^^^ flash- 
face of this u'nexamp ed nan Th^''^ T"^ "^ '^' magnanimous 
old flag-bottomed chat on which^^^^^^^^^ ^^e 

during his agonies of insnirat on ri ' , ^^ T^''^^' ^^ scribbled, 
in which he kept what sh^rtfl ' f '' '^'' °^^ ^'^^^^ of drawer 

possessed! The? the ib et ir^lvT' '°' 'T' ''' ^"PP^^^^ '^ have 
suit of black- There is X V '/'f '^'P^'^^'^ ^^^ threadbare 
pohshed writer pj;ShiforX^-: tf \ 7^ r ^^'^1^'^ ^^^^^ 
be pretty much all, so here I dose th^catalo^e ''.' '"'"" ''''' ''''' 

But pilgrmis do not come here "to pay their trihnt. nf 
nor to "put off their shoes at the threshold fnr V . reverence," 

riods later, between iHJZlrZVT' 'r'' '™' '" ''"'' P^ 
Brook Farn, life, and in ,X4fi/^ ,t beTore'^atr tf "^ "'' ''-■' 

P.^edr\ST;^b;rtr;:™[!,-iX^;i:;:r t't^^- t 



50 



visitor's guide to SALEM 



the First Baptist Church on Federal street, 
dich Hawthorne attended, and during the 
te of this injury Mr. Worcester frequenUy 
went to the Herbert-street house to teach his 
Wme iDupil. The residence in Raymond, Maine 
Xwed, but, m 1819, Hawthorne returned 
o Salem. He prepared for Bowdoin College 
under the care of the Salem lawyer, B. Lyna. 
OUver Esq., and entered that institution m 
Vsir'gradSating in 1825. . It was durmg th 
next period of his life, closmg m 1838, that ne 
acted^as a clerk for the stage company which 
ArMannings largely owned, travelled about 
ithe stages, wrote stories, and anonymously 
ub i hed ''Fanshawe," and the first volume 
'o ''TwTce Told Tales." This house is asso- 
ciated with nearlv all the important events of 
Hawthorne's early life and it is to be regret- 
ted that it could not be preserved otherwise 
than in its present condition. 
- - ■ - Hawthorne was ever returnmg to this Her 

B.LVNDE OLIVER, ESQ. bert-street house, he spent J^^^J^ ^/J^^^/^^ 
.1 ^,.ri it mio-ht ricfhtlv be called ms nome, lui 
there than in any other, and it "iig^ t n^ni y ^^.^_ 

,l,e family of '' '^'"7^\,"di„"'4' wUhTts garden of the old-fash- 
colon.al '•«=''i'=",«V*^ „Ahe sttee now completely changed in ap- 
ioned sort, ^^tf/^^t^va devoted to him, and, when he liked 
pearance, where a cnamuer v^ ^^^^ ^^^ 

L vemait^d at Je 1»- a.td^ e and 1 p.^ the .^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ 

this chamber and m '^ ^ '» ™/ Vi„ a qnaint little summer house em- 
t:^ rCraldtlS-'al-d shaded by an ancient apple tree. 

* Hawthorne and His Wife, Vol. I, p. 429. 




HAWTHORNE 



51 



Ic is probable that some of his earlier stories were written at this 
house or under the tree in its garden. 

Dearborn Street House. From 1828 to 1832 he lived with his 
mother ma house which was built for Madam Hathorne by her broth 
er on land adjommg the present Manning homestead on Dearborn 
street. It was afterward sold and moved to the opposite side of the 
street, where, numbered 26, it may be seen today 

Chestnut Street House. Little interest attaches to the house 
numbered 18_ Chestnut street, which was taken temporarily by the 
Hawthornes m 1846. Their son Julian was born in Boston in Tune 
01 that year, the "Old Manse" having been given up in 1845 This 
house, occupied in all about sixteen months, seems to have little con- 
nection with his literary work. April 23, 1847, Mrs. Hawthorne 
wrote while m this house : "We may have to stay here durina the 
summer after all. Birds ./. visit our trees in Chestnut street,%nd 
Una alks incessantly about flowers and fields." This house has been 
considerably altered since Haw- ^ 

thorne lived in it. While here, 
to avoid callers whom he did not 
care to see, Hawthorne would 
often slip out of the back door 
which opened on the little court 
running from Chestnut to Essex- 
street, and go into the house of 
his friend and neighbor, Dr. B^ 
F. Browne, at the other end of 
the court, remaining there until 
the visitor had gone. 

Mall Street House. The 
family moved to the house num- 
bered 14 Mall street in Septem- 
ber, 1847. The quiet "study" 
which Hawthorne was to have 
to himself, and which made this 
house so desirable, was the front thk mall street house. 




52 visitor's guide to SALEM 

room in the third story next the street. Here the volume entitled 
"The Snow Image" was prepared and "The Scarlet Letter" was writ- 
ten. It was a house from which the Hawthornes expected much joy, 
but reaped, instead, sadness and financial distress, although lasting 
literary fame and public recognition were achieved there. He received 
the Custom House appointment in March, 1846, and retained it until 
June, 1849, when he writes "I am turned out of office." It was to 
this house he went home to make the significant announcement to his 
wife. Upon hearing it, she said, "Very well, now you can write your 
romance." at the same time, and in answer to Hawthorne's query as 
to how they should live meanwhile, she opened the bureau drawer 
and showed him the gold she had saved from the portion of his sal- 
ary which, from time to time, he had placed in her hands. The "ro- 
mance" was "The Scarlet Letter." It was written under extraordinary 
pressure ; for dismissal from office, pecuniary distress. Madam Ha- 
thorne's death, July 31, 1849, and severe personal illness, afflicted 
the author "midway in its composition." 

It was in "a chamber over the sitting room" that Fields found 
Hawthorne, despondent and "hovering near a stove," and had the 
fateful conversation with him detailed in "Yesterdays with Authors."* 
After great reluctance and repeated refusals, — so doubtful was he of 
the success of his greatest work, — Hawthorne gave Fields the manu- 
script of the "Scarlet Letter." It was immecHately published. Know- 
ing these facts one must look upon this house with feelings of the 
deepest interest. The house and its surroundings have hardly changed 
since Hawthorne left it, in 1850, to reside in Lenox. 

The Grimshawe House, Charter Street. During the days of 
Hawthorne's courtship his future wife, Sophia Amelia Peabody, the 
daughter of Dr. Nathaniel Peabodv, lived in the large house num- 
bered 53 Charter street, adjoining, on its eastern and southern 
1")ounds. "Burving Point," the oldest cemetery in Salem. Hawthorne 
was not married in this house, but at 13 West street, in Boston, which 
at the time was the residence of Dr. Peabody. The Charter-street 
Viouse has become a lodging house, having been remodeled for that 
]>urpose after a fire in 1915 which burnt out the interior; externally 

* Page 49. 



HAWTHORNE 




the house retains much of its old 

form. Mrs. Hawthorne was born 

September 21, 1809, m a house on 

bummer street, Salem, (so savs her 

sister, Miss Elizabeth Peabody in 

a private letter), but in 1812 the 

family moved to one of the houses 

of the large brick block on Union 

street, extending from Essex, curi- 
ously enough but a stone's throw 
from the birthplace of Hawthorne 
^'^mg neighbors, the children of 
the two families played together 
^nile the Hawthornes lived in the 
Herbert-street house, but they saw 
little of each other after 1818 until 
they met again as old friends in the 
Charter-street house in 1838 It 
IS singular that Hawthorne who 
must have had most delightful asso^ 

:i:r uiS^a^il^rll^^^^flS^:^^^^ -^ed its situation 

more disagreeable pre™ tmem in 'r^ r "^^^ ""^ "^ ^^^ ^^ill 

there it surely appiar de S^^^ Secret." Yet 

^tory as "cornered on n or.J ^ ^''^ "''^P^^^ of the latter 

cated by a b^ck doo -' .fd'o'i. "'' ^ "'"'^ '''' ^^"^^ ^«"^---- 
wooden" house perhans a Lnt "'?, ^' '"'" *^^^>' "^ three-story 
front standin^i^^ron the t^/'V'"-'^^ ^^'^"^ ^ '^-^rl 

taining the main ntra" VS J^ ^ T''' -^^--^ porch,\on- 

street through an oval wSot :;'"a?h^i|e"''lf^P T,'""^''' '''' 
house in 1915 this norrh w^c ^.. fJ' ? ^"^^ ^^"^ ^^e m the 
Essex Institute where ino^ f^ ^'' '^'' "^^"^^"^^ ^^^^^^""^ of the 
quented the ceme erv fo "^'' '-"' ""^^'^^^^^"^ ^^'^dently fre- 
elsewhere in ^^^ th^r "f.^ i^^ "r"' ""^^"" °^ '' ^-- -d 
a -t to the place, ^'^Z:-^^^^^^^^^'^:^ 

American Not>3 Books, Vol. i. p. no. ' ^^narter 



53 



Porch of the ' Gnmshaive '' house now 
preserved in ,he Essex InstUute garden 



1^4 visitor's guide to SALEM 

".„ee., a .late gravestone, carved ^^o^^^^^^, ^2^ -™S 

,f .CO.. Jo'^".Hf'--%,^S>k dp the e'arth, and leans for- 

Avitch-judge. The stone is sunk uc i . ^ account of 

M-ard, and the grass grows ^^v/^^S, f 3' V; V^^"^ . In a cor- 
;he moss it -.as rather dilhcult to make out the date^ . ^^^ 

-™:r^StKcono::.p\,ent.ned ™ ^e^Mag.. . a ^d 

S~t^one^*^raCr™e^^;U^^^^^^^ A the gass 

from the half-bnried stone •''"'i .«f, ''iVp — ^' familv this 
strange ideas to thinlc ho.- '^o^'^,^: ^J ^Mnn arnVs'reach 
Ivorial ground is, the monuments ^t^^' f j""°^, ;\ ,i,tie gate from 
of the side windows of the parlor, ^i"-* ""'', ''"'^^^^ old graves 

,l,p haclc v^rd throngh which we step forth upon tnesi o u o 

a Iresatd/^ The natne of Dr. S;"»5-'™ fP^rth s n of "th 
Gahles," and agah. as the anaen apo.hec^, -1^ «;- -^.^^ „, ,, 

rs-orSor-rtt — . - rs'rimsi:::js sTcJer^""" 

from the "Notes" ,s reproduce m_ " ;^Gr™sl a ,^^^^^^^ .^ 

sai=,:^:?t^^-?^?-^^i^- 

l^-:S^t,r?l;f.^ne^S^a^ 

.vas standing in its declnnng ^^'/^If'^''^^^^^^^^^ Xi'os.n as "The 

this title The ^^^-p^2f:::^,'jjzz.^^^^^^^ 

House of the Seven Gables ^^a^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^,^^^ 

aly, relatives of the Hjl^^ liornes a ^.^ ^^^^.^ ^.^^ 

visitor there. . \- ^if-^Xt" hou;e o^^^^^ had ^even gables, and 
Susan V^S'^fie a«i sL'h^^ him beams and mortices to prove 
takmg him to ^^'^^^ '^^^^^^^^ ,y,^ crooked stairs Hawthorne is said 
the statement. Coming do^^n tne c Q^bles,— that 

'° "d- Vel^'and ^ ^ Tfter"^ roman'ce^earing this name ap- 

actual inscription. 



HAWTHORNE 



55 




THE TURNER-INGERSOLL HOUSE, KNOWN AS THE 
"HOUSE OK THE SEVEN GABLES." 

peared. That the romance had already taken shape before the name 
had been fully decided upon is shown by a reference to the matter 
m a letter to a friend written by Hawthorne just before the publica- 
tion of the work, Avhere he says: "I am beginning to puzzle myself 
about a title to the book. The scene of it is in one of the old pro- 
jectmg-storied houses familiar to me in Salem.* ... I think of such 
titles as 'The House of Seven Gables,' there being that number of 
gable ends to the old shanty ; or 'Seven Gabled .House/ or, simply, 

* Hawthorne says in the preface to the "Seven Gables" h^ trn^jtc! 
r^Xf^ fT^ ^^ ^^^'i?» °^'t a street that infringes upon nobody's pr vltl 
rights, and appropriating- a lot of land which had no visible owner and 

a "• afd^ie nX<,° bnft'f^f " 1°".^ '"^ "^« ^°^ constructing clst^s n the 
air , and he urges that the book "may be read strictly as a Romance hav- 

^t^e'I^f^J'^U^^^S^^tl^^s^^' °^--'-^^ "-'^ -^^^ any'^^poSn 

Be^■^er^l'n^d^4^a^1/t"M^."^^^^^^^^ 

writing fhe^?tor"?""'''~"''°' ' ^"^ "°* *^^^"'^^^ ^"^ partic'^u'^arTouse'^when 



56 VISTTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

'The Seven Gables.' " The name of the story which was then ahnost 
finished, as here indicated, migh't easily have been suggested by the 
visit to Miss Ingersoli in the Turner-street house ; but the house did 
not have seven gables in Hawthorne's day, nor the projecting 
stories he has described, and the idea must, therefore, have 
been suggested to him in some other way than by the house itself. 
Thus the romancer, while describing features which never existed in 
the Turner-street house, amongst them a rough-cast ornament under 
the eaves,* which he took from the specimen now preserved in the 
Institute and saved by the Historical Society on the destruction of the 
"Colonel Browne mansion," or "Sun Tavern," built in 1698, at the 
same time omits, in the most significant manner, all allusion to some 
of the salient features of the Turner-street house itself, where he had 
sat through many a summer twilight in the sea-washed garden with 
his kinswoman, Miss Ingersoli, sniffing the aroma of kelp and eel- 
grass, so dear to every native of the seaboard, and had seen the ship's 
lights swinging lazily within hail in the inner harbor, and had heard 
the salt waves plash and ripple at his feet almost amongst the tree 
roots and flower beds of the ancient homestead. 

The Eastern Land claim which figures largely in this story was an 
actual claim surviving in the author's family for generations, a tradi- 
tion of his boyhood, and may be traced in the Registry of Deeds in 
Salem. As late as 1765 it purported to vest in the heirs of John Ha- 
thorn, merchant, Esquire, a "considerable tract lying between Dam- 
mariscotta and Sheep's Cutt Rivers, by the inlet Winnegance and the 
sea," to the head of northwest passage, "which makes about a Tri- 
angle," seven miles be it more or less, "together with all the Lands, 
Islands and Isletts, Meadowes, and Harbours, Marshes, Housing, 
Eencings, Orchards, Gardens, Creeks, Coves and Rivers, con- [per?] 
taining unto the same," with full rights to possess and enjoy forever 
the said "considerable parcel," and it was computed to be about 
9000 acres, as l)y deed from Robin Hood, an Indian sagamore, re- 
corded June 16, 1666. 

* House of the Seven Gables, p. 16. 



HAWTHORNE c 7 

A Story is told of another visit of Hawthorne's to th. -r 
street house which connects it in an interesting':™ .,1 S ZZZ' 
A friend of h:s, an adopted son of Miss Ingersoll who Hved Tth; 
house at the time, one day fell asleep in his diair in tVe south parlor 
in such a position that he could be seen through an emrvwav bl a 
person passuig ni the street and glancing in at%ne of he'To^ w'in 
dows. Seeing him in this way as he approached the house Haw 
thorne was at first startled by his friend's appearance sS theTe 
motionless in the half-shadow and cross-lights^ To rea:ssu re L df 
Hawthorne tapped on the window and waked the sleeper ad then 
rushing into the house, he exxlaimed, "Good Heaer Horace ? 
bought you were dead." The connection of this episode with the nic 
ture of the dead judge seen through the window L tint n hi ch^^^^^^^ 
ni the parlor of the "House of the Seven Gables," is^v^ent TlL' 
wnjdow IS thought to have once served the toll-ga herer of the Ma 
blehead Ferry which left the foot of Turner street, two centuries^go" 
The house which stood at the corner of Essex and North streets' 
known as the "Deliverance Parkman House," a sketch of which mlv 
be seen at the Essex Institute, and referred to in Hawthorne's An"erT 
can Notes* as a house "wherein one of the ancestors of the present' 

te"Xldth"1.'V''''"^,'^'^"">^''' '' ^--^^ "^t- t^- story o'f 'Pe- 
er Goldthwaits Treasure," which first appeared in "The Token" of 
t,38, and was reprinted in the "Twice Told Tales." A stiUgreater 
interest is attached to this story, however, for it contains tie frame 
work so to speak, of the "House of the Se;en Gables. ''Teter Gold h- 
waites house was "one of those rusty, moss-grown, many peaked 
wooden houses which are scattered about the'streets of our^ elde 
owns, with a beetle-browed second story projecting over the founda- 
tion as If It frowned at the novelty around it." There was an e^fy 
where I the'; ' ^^V^terious fortune, supposed to be hidden some- 
where m the house, one report intimating that the ancient Peter had 
made the gold by alchemy." To find the treasure Go Idthwaite tears 
out the inside of his house, finding in one room, in a concealed "co- 
ez or cupboard on one side of the fireplace, a dusty piece of parch- 



'■ Vol. I, p. 201. 



S8 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




Hunt House, built about 169b. 



ment," telling the amount of 
the supposed treasure and its 
hiding place. Finally the trea- 
sure chest is found secreted in 
a closet by the kitchen chim- 
ney, but it contains only 
worthless paper money of the 
colonial davs. The close re- 
semblance of this story to 
parts of the "Seven Gables," 
where it is more highly elabo- 
rated, is at once apparent, and 
again shows clearly that Ha^y- 
thorne evolved the house in 
that romance from more than one of these oW Salem houses, among 
which the "Deliverance Parkman" house should be "^eluded 

There were several manv-gabled houses, notably the Philip_ Eng- 
lish tlsZ^nding in Ha.?horne's day but all^ave the^^juven- 

ated Pickering mansion, have disappeared. The Hunt house 

corner of Washington and 

Lynde streets, taken down m 

1863, was the most picturesque 

of any which remained long 

enough to be preserved by 

photography. Although the 

visitor must give up the real 

house, the old elm tree, the 

shop. Clifford's chamber, the 

arched window and the secret 

closet behind the portrait, and 

understand that the house in 

the romance is a composite of 

all the many - gabled houses 
then in Salem, with large ad- 
ditions from the author's teem- 




Philip English House, built about li 



HAWTHORNE 



59 



ing brain, and had no individual existence out of Hawthorne's fancy, 
still his life is so closely associated with the Turner-street house that 
it is fairly entitled to the name. 

There are many references in "The House of the Seven Gables." 
to real places, such as the Post Office, then in the East India Marine 
building, and the Insurance Office, in the same region, mentioned in 
the chapter entitled "The Flight of Two Owls." 

It was Horace Ingersoll, Miss Susan Ingersoll's adopted son, 
living in this house, vdio told Hawthorne the story of the Acadian 
lovers,* which, given to Longfellow, appeared in the now classic 
poem of "Evangeline." This may be added to the other interesting 
associations connected with the Turner-street house. Mr. Ingersoll's 
name before his adoption was Horace L. Connolly. He *died in 
1894. An account of his and Hawthorne's connection with the poem 
of Evangeline will be found detailed in the second volume of the 
Life of Longfellow. t 

The tales of a "Grandfather's 
Chair" are said to have drawn 
their inspiration from this old house 
also. On one of his visits here, 
while he was sitting in a deiected 
'state in a deep window seat of the 
parlor. Hawthorne was complain- 
ing that he had written himself out. 
and could think of nothing more. 
Turning to him, and pointing to 
an old armchair that had long been 
in the family, Miss Ingersoll said. 
"Nat, why don't you write about 
this old chair? There must be manv 
stories connected with it." From 
this hint the little volume, pub- 
lished in 1841, is said to have come. 

TWs chair is now preserved at the horace ingersoll 

House of the Seven Gables." By Southward. 

Essex Institute Picture Gallery. 
* American Note Books, 1839, Vol. I, p. 203. 
T Pages 60, 70. 98-9, and elsewhere. 




60 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



The Turner-Street house was built about 1669 and some years ago, 
in removing its central chimnev there was found an old psalm book 
and a "Pine-tree" sixpence now preserved among the relics at the 
house. In 1909. through the energy and generosity of Miss Caro- 
line O. Emmerton, the house was completelv restored in all of its 
old features and made the center of a new and most active philan- 
thropv, a neighborhood settlement. Since then the "()lcl Bakery," 
formerly on Washington street has been moved to the lot and 
also thoroughly restored. Tlie disfiguring .Seamen's "Bethel", until 
recently in front of the "Seven (iables," has been removed to the rear 
and altered over for purposes of the settlement, so that as of old the 
".Seven Gables" now looks out upon the harbor and across to the 
Marblehead shore. This collection of houses now forms one of the 
greatest attractions for the visitor to Salem. 

The Custom House is on Derby street, opposite Derby wharf. 
Hawthorne was appointed surveyor of the port in 1846, and occu- 
pied the southwestern front room on the lower floor. The stencil 
with which he marked inspected goods "N. Hawthorne" is still 
shown by his courteous successor in office, but the desk at which he 
wrote will be found at the Institute. So many of the characters and 

scenes depicted in the Custom House 
sketch in the "Introduction to the 
Scarlet Letter" were living realities, it 
is no wonder that visitors inquire for 
and confidentiallv expect to be shown 
tlie majiuscript itself at the Custom 
House or the Institute. The publica- 
tion of the "Scarlet Letter" at once 
produced intense curiosity to see this 
document of .Surveyor Pue and the em- 
I)r{ndcred "A" so graphically described, 
an 1 which many readers of the storv 
believed to exist. Just at this time a 
Custom House Desk used by Haw- ^^'^^d a«^ked Hawthomc if he really 

thorne, now in Essex Institute had the scarlct letter itself, and lie as- 

Museum. 




HA\VTHOR.\E 



61 



of Jervase Helwyse, which l^^i^ni^ZLV:^^^J^^l,^^ 
own genealogical tree. On the other hand, the ex, no? a l^!' 
prescribing the cruel penalties of the "Sc.rlet letter-' hi , 
generally distrusted.'^ Probably i.ost read ^L; allow d\hr 
selves to suppose it a figment of the writer's br^-n n ^fi- 
actual copy of the law, in antique print va. s ov n -n the V IV 
to Barrie, the Scotch romancer, ''^ ^''' Institute 

he did not hesitate to pro- 
nounce it the most curious 
thing in Salem. 

The Town Pump "A Rill 
from the Town Pump" was 
first printed in the "New Eng- 
land Magazine" in 1835. and 
later in "Twice Told Tales." 
The pump stood by a build- 
ing on Washington street, just 
south of Essex, the Town 
House square of to-day, but in 
constructing the railroad tun- 
nel, in 1839, the well which 
supplied it with water was 
obliterated, and another pump 
was set up in Washington 
street at the passageway be- 
tween the First Church and the 




ims penalty was inflicted at SDrin«^Airi i\/ro^^ 
tlie law remained in force until Feb 1?! 178? ^- ""'^ ^^^^ '^^ O^*- 



Tlie Town Pump near the First Meeting House. 
From a drawing made about 1825. 

1754 and 



^2 visitor's guide to SALEM 

A.i.,e or S.le„, Saving. BanU^uilding. This in ti™e ga^^^ 

,0 the present fonntain, ™- -^!* f ^^ , ^bTseen in old pictures, 
real pump from which the "H" "i can oi y ^ ^„„,,,er 

„, If .h,ch is f"""-]'^, f^ff ^^^ete pi ures show the pnmp and 
in the now rare Felts An"al>- '"'^ p fantasy. The 

its surroundings at about the J^"= "^ "^ ™'.'"Soon by the East," re- 
opening sentence, "Noon by *^ Nort cloc^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ 

fers to the clocks on the old .Norin ''' "^ ^ ^ t^^e cor- 

clock on the old North meeting^.oue, which t en ^ ^^^^^^ 

ner of North and Lynde streets, -a. ar^ied here .^ ^^^^^ 

of the old wooden meetnig-house of the tir.t en , ^^_ 

...en that ^^^^^g^^^^^^^lZ^^c^^^^ at the corner 
ferred to was on the l.ast meeti.ig ' ^^^^ the hours 

of Essex and Bent ey ff^^s^ Its accessor ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ 

on the same old bell, cast by ^^^ J^^^^J^^^; ^,^^4 the removal of the 
Bentley school house, where it ^^,^:; ^^^^^^^f ^'^ ,, of Hawthorne's 
church to Washmgton ^^^^^re^ he t^wn pun^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^.^^^^^ 

day were famous affairs ^f^f^^^^ - .'^"J p^i.s with a handle pro- 
with wooden troughs, and often ^^;;^;^^^^\J^';4'' sections of the town, 

^-^^^^^ f ''^':^ t^sri^aSj;:^ wh^ the pubuc coma 
^^^^^^^^^ -r- 

introduction to ^^^ f ^^l^j^ ;7t.^^ ^^,^ triumphant thought,-that 

n.ay be, h^-^^^';;^^; /^^X ;resent race r^av sometimes think 
the great-grandchi dren o tne p ^^^^ antiquary of days 

tillf ^o^^t^"-stS^l^'^;he town's history, shall 

P^^^ir';!^UGS;^^'Da^™r story was printed in the 
"Democratic Kev^c.^ l^e ^^^^ ^^^^^.^^^^ ^^^^.^^^ ^^^^^^ ,^^^^^ 

B?M^sl^:lr^^em; ;: CalK^t-street, Beverly, unites the two cities. 

;Xfbcto^^e?'iS37, and Salem Observer of Nov. 4. 1837. 



HAWTHORNE 63 

Near the draw, which was lifted like two huge trapdoors by man 
power, was the old seat described by Hawthorne, but neither that 
nor the toll-house remains. A sketch representing the place in its 
former condition may be seen at the Essex Institute. The toll house 
was a haunt of Hawthorne's in his evening rambles, — he wrote to 
Longfellow, "Like the owl, I seldom venture abroad till after dusk," 
— and there he met the old shipmasters who frequented the place 
and listened to their wonderful sea-tales. 

"Endicott and The Red Cross." The scene of this sketch, 
which iirst appeared in "The Token" of 1838, is laid in Town 
House square. The fact of Endecott's action is historic, but the 
words and scene are, of course, Hawthorne's. The story is, how- 
ever, suggestive of the spirit of the times, which is well embodied in 
the poem by Longfellow, entitled "John Endicott," in his "New 
England Tragedies." 

"Main Street." First printed in Miss Elizabeth Peabody's 
"Aesthetic Papers" in 1849, and later, in connection with the 
"Snow Image." Main street, of course, refers to Essex street ; but, 
as the diorama closes with the great snow storm of 1717, no relic 
of things described save the Corwin or "Witch" house, at the corner 
of North and Essex streets, can be visited today. 

Many other references could be given to places and scenes de- 
scribed in Hawthorne's writings. In the "Carrier's Addresses," en- 
titled "The Sister Years," and "Times Portraiture," Avritten in 1838- 
for the Gazette, the then new City Hall, the present structure, is 
commented upon ; while "I have opened a railroad" refers to the re- 
cently established steam communication with Boston, the first built 
section of the old Eastern Railroad ; "the tall steeple of Dr. Emer- 
son's church" was, of course, that of the South, at the corner of 
Chestnut and Cambridge streets, destroyed by fire in 1904, where 
good old parson Emerson retained his connection with the church — 
a strange thing it would be nowadays — for sixty-seven years. "Dr. 
Flint's church" was the old East Church on Essex street, previously 
mentioned. In fact the town may be described as Hawthorne's work- 
shop from which he turned out, for the delectation of the read- 



64 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

ing world, his marvellously constructed and finished wares. "Foot- 
prints on the Seashore," printed in the "Democratic Review" in 1838, 
and later in "Twice Told Tales," finds its counterpart in the "ram- 
ble to the seashore near Phillips' Beach," where Hawthorne "crossed 
the fields near the Brookhouse villa," as described in the "American 
Note Books."* The story and the notes read in connection with each 
other give an excellent idea of Hawthorne's method of constructing 
his art-work, and the ramble is as delightful today as when Haw- 
thorne spent the afternoon there, Oct. 16, 1837. Hawthorne fre- 
quently visited on foot the rocky shores of Beverly. Manchester, 
Marblehead and Nahant. "Brown's Folly," printed in the "Weal 
E.eaf,"t finds its prototype in a walk described in the "American 
Note Books."! The weird detached paragraphs of "Alice Doane's 
Appeal" (first printed in "The Token," Boston, 1835), are described 
as being read by the author to "two young ladies ... on a pleasant 
afternoon in June," Avhile they all rested on Gallows Hill, over- 
looking the town. The picture of early Salem there recalled is truth- 
ful and interesting, and the closing paragraph is one with which this 
chapter may well end. Hawthorne here points out the true lesson of 
the witchcraft delusion of 1692, and the duty of marking the spot 
Avliere the final acts of that tragedy took place — a duty which still re- 
mains to be performed. "Yet, ere we left the hill, we could not but 
regret that there is nothing on its barren summit, no relic of old, nor 
lettered stone of later days, to assist the imagination in appealing to 
the heart. We build the memorial column on the height which our 
fathers made sacred with their blood, poured out in a holy cause. And 
liere, in dark, funereal stone, should rise another monument, sadly 
commemorative of the errors of an early race, and not to be cast 
down, while the human heart has one infirmity that may result in 
crime." 

* Vol. I. p. 04. t Essex Institute, 1860. ± Vol. I, p. 90 (1837). 




THE ESSEX INSTITUTE AND NEW ENGLAND KITCHEN OF 1750 
IN ITS MUSEUM. 



CHAPTER VI. 
MUSEUMS AND LIBRARIES. 

THE ESSEX INSTITUTE. 

THE ESSEX INSTITUTE (132-134 Essex street) was organ- 
ized 111 1848, by the union of the Essex Historical Society and 
the Essex County Natural History Society, and was incorpo- 
rated the same year. It has for its objects the promotion of history, 
science and art in Essex County, and is supported by an annual as- 
sessment upon its members and by the income from its funds. 

The Essex Historical Society was incorporated in 1821, having 
for Its object the collection and preservation of material illustrating 
the civil and natural history of the county of Essex. The veneral)le 
Dr. Edward A. Holyoke, who alway.^ 
took the warmest interest in whatever 
concerned American literature and 
science, was its first president. The 
zeal of its members and their friends 
in a short time gathered together a 
valuable collection of portraits and 
relics illustrative of the early history 
of the county, and the nucleus of a ^ — =ti^=~''-^^S- 

library, containing files of local news- ^^^^ ^^^'^~^ -- 

papers, pamphlets, publications of Essex County authors etc Thest- 
Avere first housed in Essex place, on Essex street, facing Central- 
then m a room over the Salem Bank, in Pickman place, where Down- 
nig block now stands ; and afterwards in Lawrence place at the cor- 

(67) 




61 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



11 er of Washington and Front streets. The society had on its roll of 
mt.^mbership tlie names of many men of wide distinction, such as 
Timothy Pickering, Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Nathaniel Silsbee, 
Nathan Dane, Daniel A. White, Rufus Choate, Leverett Saltonstall, 
Charles W. Upham, Stephen C. Phillips, Nathaniel Bowditch, Ben- 
jamin Pickman, and Joseph B. Felt. Its 50th and 75th anniversaries 
Vi-ere commemorated by the Institute. 

The Essex County Natural History Society was organized 
in 1833, largely through the efforts of Dr. Henry Wheatland, "for 
the purpose of promoting the science of natural history." At first it 
had a room in the second story of a building in Essex place, opposite 
Central street. The collection in the spring of 1834 was hardly 
large enough to fill a single bookcase which had been given to the so- 
ciety. In 1835 it moved into the 
fourth story of the Franklin 
building, at the corner of Wash- 
ington square and Essex street, 
but this proving an unsuitable 
place, it again moved, in 1837, to 
the Masonic Hall on Washington 
street, where the Holyoke build- 
ing now stands. Here its museum 
occupied a room 15 by 30 feet, ad- 
joining a larger one used for 
meetings and lectures. The collections could be seen by visitors at 
the meetings of the society and at the horticultural exhibitions, 
which were at this time frequent and popular. In 1842 the society 
moved to the rooms in the Pickman Place building, 173 Essex street, 
then vacated by the Essex Historical Society', and formerly occupied 
by the East India Marine Museum. This building was altered in 
1844, when a number of new cases were built and the collection re- 
arranged. A small room on the lower floor served as a laboratory 
for zoological and anatomical work, and was occupied much of the 
time by active members of the society. Here several of the best 
known naturalists of the dav began their studies. 




piclyTiari place 



THE ESSEX INSTITUTE 69 

The Essex Institute, at the time of its formation in 1848, oc- 
cupied the rooms of the Essex Comity Natural History Society, at 
173 Essex street, removing in 1857 to the newly built Plummer Hall, 
^■.here its museum was arranged in the lower story. A few years 
later several of the younger members of the Institute, Avho had 
studied zoology with the elder Agassiz, left Cambridge, and devoted 
their energies largely to the Institute. In consequence of the ac- 
tivity of the Institute at this time in the study of natural history and 
in collecting material for the formation of a large and valualfle zoo- 
logical and ethnological museum, together with the unexpected op- 
portunity to purchase the East India Marine Hall, with its large 
collection of ethnological and historical objects, the attention of Mr. 
George Peabody, of London, was called to the desirability of estab- 
lishing in Salem a county institution, which should extend the work 
already so well begun by the Institute, and at the same time perpetu- 
ate the unique museum of the East India Marine Society. Tliis he 
aifected in 1867, by a gift of $140,000, and the establishment of the 
Trustees of the Peabody Academy of Science, later simplified to 
Peabody Museum of Salem. The natural history collections of the 
Institute were transferred to the care of these trustees, and the ob- 
jects of the Essex County Natural History Society since then have 
been carried out by the younger institution, and the special work of 
the Essex Institute has been more in the way of local history, gene- 
alogy, and art, along the lines laid down by the founders of the 
Essex Historical Society. It has been the aim of the Institute to 
brmg together as large a collection as possible illustrating in every 
way the liistory of the county. A museum has thus been formed of 
historical objects, furniture, household and other utensils, illustrat- 
ing the home life of the early settlers and those wlio followed them, 
revolutionary and other war relics, portraits, and objects of art, 
manuscripts, and everything which in any way may be considered as 
belonging to the different periods of the history of Salem and the 
County of Essex. The Institute also has long maintained courses of 
free lectures and holds "field meetings" from time to time in various 
parts of the county. 



70 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




THE READ-PRESCOTT HOUSE (1793) 
Formerly on site of Essex Institute Museum. 



In June, 1887, the Institute 
moved from Plummer Hall in- 
to its new building, 132 Esse)c 
street, which was erected for a 
dwelling liouse, in 1851, by 
Tucker Daland, a well-known 
merchant of Salem, and after- 
wards became the property of 
liis son-in-law, Dr. Benjamin 
Cox, from whose heirs it was 
purchased by the Institute, the 
amount paid being taken from 
•1 fund bequeathed by the late 
William Burley Howes. 

In 1906, the Institute pur- 
chased from the Salem Athe- 
na'um the adjoining Plummer 
Hall property. A staircase hall was built, giving access to both 
buildings, and extensive alterations provided a well-lighted picture 
gallery, a museum hall of fine architectural proportions, a bookstack 
accommodating 300,000 volumes, and modern conveniences of heat- 
ing and lighting. The museum hall was opened to the public on 
Sc])t. 9. l'»()7. 

The Historic Site. About on the site of the museum building, 
formerly Plummer Hall, stood the house of Emmanuel Downing, 
who married a sister of Cxovernor Winthrop. Their son, George 
Downing, a graduate of Harvard College, in the first class, settled 
in London, and gave his name to Downing street, and through a de- 
scendent, to Downing College, Cambridge. Capt. Joseph Gardner, 
the famous Indian fighter, — the "Fighting Joe" of the Narragansett 
\\ars, — married Downing's daughter, and became its life-tenent ; and 
from this threshold he set forth, in 1675, for the "Great Swamp 
Fight," which proved to be his last. His widow married Governor 
r^radstreet, who lived and died here. Here, says Timothy Pickering, 
the 59th regiment of the line was halted on its way up from Salem 



THE ESSF.X IXSTl'lT'TE 



71 



Nc-ck to disperse, with 
bayonet and ball if 
need be, tlie to\vii. 
niL^eting of August 24. 
'774, convened at our 
I'own House. This 
wns also the homestead 
estate of generations 
of the Bowditch fam- 
ily, and of Hon. Na- 
tiian Read, m.ember of 
Congress, the last 
dwelling house upon 
the site having been 
l;uilt by Mr. Read, 




THE GOVERNOR BRADSTREET HOUSE (1640?) 
Formerly on site of Essex Institute Museum. 



who, eighteen vears before Fulton, built and successfully navigated 
a steamboat on Danvers river, John Hancock being one of the pas- 
.sengers. William Hickling Prescott, the historian, author of the 
"Cone]uest of Mexico," "Ferdinand and Isabella," and "Philip the 
Second," was born May 4, 1796, in the eastern chamber of this house, 
which became, in 1799, the residence of Capt. Joseph Peabody. Upon 
the decease of his widow, the estate was purchased by the Salem 
Athenaeum. 

The library of the Essex Institute contains (1916) 115,800 vol- 
umes, 400,000 pamphlets, over 2,600 volumes (1916) of manuscripts 
and family papers and a very large collection of newspapers, many of 
them printed in the eighteenth century. Among the special collections 
of books are 1,600 genealogies; 4,000 town histories and 
works relating to New England history; the "Ward China Library," 
containing over 3000 volumes, in the English language, on China 
and the Chinese, and recognized as the best collection of the kind in 
the country ; a collection of some three hundred Bibles ; a well se- 
lected art library; a collection of over 20,000 books, pamphlets, etc., 
written by Essex county authors, or the product of the Essex county 
press; over 1,250 log-books and sea-journals, with shipmasters' in- 



72 visitor's guide to salem 

structions and correspondence, detailing privateering cruises in the 
two wars with England, and -every sort of daring adventure by sea; 
a library of over 2,200 volumes relating to the commercial marine ; 
over 4,100 directories from all parts of the world; a large collection 
of public documents, and the publications of 200 societies — histor- 
ical, literary, and scientific, in all parts of the world, with which the 
Institute conducts exchanges. 

The publications of the Essex Institute are the Historical Collec- 
tions, issued quarterly, and now (1916) in the iifty-second volume; 
the Bulletin, containing scientific matter, thirty volumes having been 
published ; the Proceedings, in six volumes ; and many other histor- 
ical and scientific works. 

The Essex Institute is supported by an annual assessment of $3.00 
from each of its members, the income from its funds, and by volun- 
tary contributions from its friends. It is controlled by a board of 
directors elected by the society. The officers are William C. Endicott, 
president ; George Francis Dow, secretary ; William O. Chapman, 
treasurer ; and Alice G. Waters, librarian. 

The Museum of the Institute is open to visitors daily (except 
Sundays and legal holidays), from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Visitors may 
obtain, free, of the attendant, an itinerary, giving a list of places of 
mterest in Salem. 

Picture Gallery. — The picture gallery, hallways and adjoining 
rooms contain alwut 150 paintings, principally portraits of which the 
more important are : 

Caliga (1857- ). Portrait of Henry F. Waters." 

Copley (1737-1815). Portraits of :Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Fitcli and Eev. 

Edward Barnard, and miniatures of Capt. Joseph Orne and Mr. 

and Mrs. Samuel Sparhawk 
Butch School (17th century). A Dutch interior. 
Frothinyham (1788-1854). 'Portraits of Mrs. TJachel Forrester, Dr. Hol- 

yoke, Israel Dodge and others. 
Greeuicood (1727-1792). Portraits of Benjamin Pickman, Gov. Benjamin 

Gerrish and wife and others. 
Harding (1792-1S66). Portraits of Judge White and James Bayley. 
Lely (1617-1680). Portraits of Oliver Cromwell and Sir John Leverett 

(attributed to Lely). 
Leslie (1835- ). The war .summons. 

Little (1857- ). Old Derby wharf, Salem. 




PARLOR IN 17TH CENTURY HOUSE IN ESSEX INSTITUTE GARDEN. 




PARLOR OF ABOUT THE YEAR 1800 IN ESSEX INSTITUTE MUSEUM. 





MRS. TIMOTHY FITCH 
By Copley. 



MRS. CHARLOTTE FORRESTER 
By Stuart. 





DR. HENRY WHEATLAND 
By Vinton. 



ALEXANDER HAMILTON 
By Trumbull. 



THE ESSEX INSTITUTE 75 

Malhoitc (1777-1S07). Miniature of Elislm Story, M. D. 

Mannldrd (1G95-1760). Bay of Zora. 

Ualtesoii (1813-1884). Trial of George Jacobs for witchcraft. 

Norton (1843- ). Pogy steamer off Grand Manan. 

Ds(/oo(1 (1809-1890). Portraits of Mrs. Ann C. Paine, Justice Story, and 

others. 
f'ealc (1791-1878). Miniature of Oliver Hubbard, M. D. 
Conssln (1593-1665). Eoman Campagna. 
Smibert (1684-1751). Portraits of Sir William Pepperrell, Kev. John 

Rog-ers, and jNIrs. Deborah Clarke. 
'^odcnna (1477-1549). Madonna and Child. 
^oiiiitag (1822-1900). On the Susquehanna. 
SiKini^h School (18th century). The death of Abel. 
s7o/7.- (1650-1710). Marine. 

<1u(U-t (1755-1828). Portrait of Mrs. Charlotte Forrester. 
TnnuhiilJ (1756-1843). Portrait of Alexander Hamilton. 
Turner. Ros.s (1848-1915). The last haven. 
\ an Wi/ck (16th century). The adoration of the Mag-i. 
Verroort (dated 1826). A g-ame piece. 
Vinton (184C-1911). Portrait of Henry Wheatland, M. D. 

For complete list of portraits sec page 190. 

Fine Arts, Musical Instruments, Architecture, etc. CoUec- 
[■ions of miniatures, silhouettes, has reliefs in wax, and engravings ; 
:oIlection of portraits on ivory of East Indian princes — spoils from 
-he Sepoy Rebellion; historical paintings, — Old Salem Court House, 
3uilt in 1785, with view of Washington street; Crowninshield's 
Wharf, Salem, during the embargo. 1806, by George Ropes; the 
Old Salem Court House. 1830, by Luscomb ; St. Peter's Church, 
?alem, 1833; the Judge Corwin House (Witch House), and other 
iarly houses ; Views of Harvard College and the Boston Massacre, 
engraved by Paul Revere ; water color of the Blockade of Boston, 
painted in 1768 h\ Christian Remick ; a loan collection of Nurem- 
jerg iron work, etc. ; wood carvings, by Samuel Mclntire ; urns from 
5teeple of South Church, 1804; carved wooden cod fish from the 
Pickman house (17-1-3) ; the "pineapple door head" (1754) ; vanes, 
1683 and 1711; leaded glass; balusters from historic houses, sec- 
tions of stairways, capitals, urns, dados, cornices, and other objects 
Df interest to architects and house decorators. A large collection of 
samplers and specimens of fine needlework. A one-horse chaise, 



76 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SAI.EM 






I »W.;-i!l(ii!i.'fl( 






4f'-»?:i^ 



I ' ■ '■ ' ■ • 



C'-^^njs; 



Anne Gower Sampler. 
Before 1628. 

Grant, Benedict 
Large collection 
both ancient and 



about 1785. Dolls and children's toys and 
games, toy models of vehicles. 

Piano made by Benjamin Crehore, of Milton, 
the first American piano maker ; this piano was 
the first used at Topsfield. An early Clementi 
grand piano ; a Broadwood piano of 1691 ; spinet 
made by Samuel Blythe, of Salem, in 1789, sup- 
jiosed to be the earliest made in the county. 

Replica of the Rosetta Stone, Case contain- 
ing seals — the original design made by George 
Peabody for the seal of the city of Salem, the 
royal .seal of Great Britain, German seals of 
1525, seal of Doge Morisini CVIII., Doge of 
Venice, seals of local corporations, etc., etc. 
Cases displaying manuscripts, — John Holyoke's 
scrap book, 1660; parchment deed of John 
Downing, 1700; sermons, 1638-1745, one 
preached by George Curwen at the First Church, 
1716, on a day of thanksgiving for the succession 
of George I. over the Pretender ; autographs of 
Washington, Lafayette, Lincoln. Gladstone, 
Arnold and others. 



of coins and medals, 
modern including the 
Robinson Collection of (3riental coins 
and the Lee Collection of American 
coins. Collection of printed books news- 
papers, broadsides, and first editions dis- 
playing the progress of writing and 
printing including 12th century illumi- 
nated antiphonary, "breeches bible," 
early New England imprints, the Dec- 
laration of Independence (1776), etc. 

Historical Objects. Gov. John En- 
decott's sundial ; Gov. John Leverett's 




'^Boh/ditch 
DesK and 
Quadrant. 



THE ESSEX INSTITUTE 



/ / 



gloves: christening blanket of Gov. William 
Bradford, 1588 ; sampler wrought by Anne Gow- 
er, wife of Gov. John Endecott ; Napoleon rel- 
ics, including a coffee cup belonging to a set 
used by him during the retreat from Moscow, and 
a shirt taken from his wardrobe abandoned at 
that time, also a tassel from his death-bed ; canes 
used by George Jacobs, who was executed for 
witchcraft in 1692; lock of the room in which 
Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence ; 
padlock and key weighing two grains, made in 
Russia: cherry stone containing 113 miniature 
silver spoons ; tea from the "Boston Tea Party ;" 
Wordsworth's inkstand ; paper weight used by 
Dickens ; law book showing the "Scarlet Letter" 
law ; a design in plaster from the wall of the old 
Sun Tavern, Salem; chair owned by Nathaniel 
Bowditch. and replica of the desk he used when 
engaged in translating the Mecaniqiie Celeste of 
La Place : desk used by Hawthorne while at the 
Custom House, and on which he wrote portions 
of "The Scarlet Letter" ; pew door from the First 
Meeting House in Hingham ; the communion 
table used in the first building of the East church, 
Salem; hour glass stand from the church in Topsfield, 1700; the 
New Rowley (now Georgetown) postoffice (1824) ; lacquered table 
brought from Japan, in 1799, by the ship Franklin, the first Ameri- 
can vessel to visit that country ; stand for christening basin in use in 
First Churcn, Salem, in 1691 ; table upon which Moll Pitcher told 
fortunes during the Revolution ; the "Cape Ann Charter," 1623 ; 
witchcraft depositions of Ann Putnam and a deed signed bv Bridget 
Bishop, who was hanged for witchcraft ; a pewter communion service 
of 1685 ; gin flask of General Miller, of Lvmdy's Lane fame ; per- 
sonal relics of Gen. F. T. Ward (Taiping Rebellion) ; Roman an- 
tiquities ; valuable autographic documents ; small fire shovel owned 
by Benjamin Franklin while living in Boston ; gibbet from Quebec, 




Gibbet from Quebec, 
1TG3. 



78 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




liolyol\e ChaiT 



1 763, which once held the body of a mur- 
deress ; guillotine knife of the Freitch rev- 
olution, etc. 

Dwellings, Furniture, etc. Ihree 
rooms — a kitchen of 175(i, with brick fire- 
place and oven, dresser, corner cupboard, 
settle, sanded floor, etc., a bedroom of 
1800. with full-dressed bed, trundle bed, 
high chest of draw^ers, Franklin stove, 
painted floor, etc., and a parlor of 1800, 
with spinet, carved mantel, and fine mahog- 
any furniture. These rooms are furnished 
in manner of the periods which they repre- 
sent, with original furniture and household 
utensils. Model of the old Becket house ; model of the South 
Church, Salem, 1804; model of a chest of drawers, made previous 
to the Revolution, by a member of the Cabot family ; American 
clock, made by Richard Manning, Ipswich, 1767, and one made l)y 
Hoadley, Plymouth (Conn.) ; tall 
bells, made by "Jacob 
Strauser. Nurnberg. 1737"; 
the Pickering house fire back, 
1660; sofa covered with taj)- 
estry, brought from Norman- 
dy soon after 1685, by a fam- 
ily of French Huguenots ; oak 
chair of the time of Queen 
Elizabeth, one of a set of fom' 
belonging to the Far lev family 
of Ipswich, brought to this 
country in 1635 by the first 
immigrants of the Dennis fam- 
ily, and presented, in 1821, John and Alice Pickering- Fireback. 

to the Essex Historical So- Cast at Saugus in loeo. 



bavin" a chime of fifteen 




THE ESSEX INSTITU'JK 



79 




ciety, to be used by Dr. E. A. Holyoke, the 
president; the George Rea Curwen collec- 
tion of antique furniture,— desks, dressin^^ 
tables, sofas, chests of drawers, oak chests^ 
full dressed bed, bureau, cradles, tables, old 
settle, old trunk, etc., etc. ; trunk formerly 
the property of Sheriff Jonathan Corwin 
16/0 ; cradle of Judge Storv, and of his son 
the sculptor and poet ; rush bottom chairs 
from the Trask house, 1700; child's chair 
about 1790; key of the Ipswich jail, 1751 ■ 
lock and key, Salem jail, 1813, etc etc 

Silver, China, Glass. Tin, and Iron 
Ware. Silver loving cup (Swan, 1749) 
spoon (Hull), cream jug (Revere), por- 
ringers l)y Winslow and Burt, patch boxes 
spoons, etc., by Hanners, Edwards, Lang,' 
Hiller, Brookhouse, and others: Collection 
of china and pottery, showing examples of worn about nes. 

rafed Dem rrr' "'f ' ^'"^°"' ^'^^^^^^^d and undeco- 

lated, Delft; oriental Lowestoft; Sevres, etc., and many examples 
of European and Oriental ware ; Washington pitchers, Nelon p fcl 
er puzzle pitdier ; silver and copper lustre pottery ; 'gingeMa^if of 

cfeTs f'olf V"^^^^^^ ?^^''"^^ "^ '' eighteenth'centm-y ;'li,uor 
case, 81 , collection of old glass,— wme glasses (1700-1800) lar-e 
glass beaker of 175-J, old pressed bottles'and glasses; old pewt?r 
dishes cups, mugs, lamps, etc. ; wooden boxes and chests • coJllc 
tion of tiles ; collection of candlesticks, snuffers, tinder box^ old 
metal and glass lamps of difl-erent periods ' 

( 1 nffi?^, 7-"^ Ornaments. Collection of American costumes 
(17U-1850) displayed on figures; wig worn by Rev. Eliab Stone 
minis er at North Reading, Mass. ; old wig described by Hawd.or le 
in the American Note Books"; collection of old hats and bonnets 

les 1™ ,?sm ' ^^^n^f^-^'"' 0760-1850), shoes, shoe buck- 
les (1760-1850); ancient fabrics; dresses, embroidery, and lace; 



Silver lace brocade dress 
worn about 1765. 



80 



visitor's guide to SALEM 



waist-coat «or„ by Capt. f^^^^<^^-' ^^:'^:^Tl^^Xl^^l 
:ffr:;>St^'(:ee'^ko£por«.it.) funeja.™^ 

?r"- '" "m dXre". New l^i'.ld' baskets ; hind mill stone, 
1690; over iOO ditteren.- iNtw i:.^ Fmicis Peabodv ; wooden 

bought frotn E"gand .„ O30 b^Lt^F^^^ ^,^,_ 

i^loush used bv a iJoxtora iMinuix, ii.dii -Romacre nrint- 

1-7-7= inrp fr-^me in nse in Ipsw ch previous to 1790, Kama^e prmi 
1775; lace fraiiie^nase 11^ of razors ; large collection of fire 

r^Ptf\idel T he Wm Penn and Lafayette old-type hose car- 
i)uckets models ot tne win. ooms, and 

carpenter, blacksmith, shoemaker, currier, 

cooper, etc. 

Weapons, War Relics, etc. Helmet, 
time of Cortez; ancient breastplate found m 
Mexico : cap worn by Capt. Titcomb of Wash- 
hicnon's Life Guard; cap of Hessian soldier 
Revolutionary period; links of chain stretched 
across Hudson river at West Pomt durmg 
the Revolution; collection of Revolutionary 
relics —hats, uniforms, muskets, swords, 
Hessian cap. me. powd'er horns, bullets, etc.; saddle bag 




THE ESSEX IXSTITUTE 



used at Bunker Hill ; full uniform of 
a General in the war of 1812 j uni- 
forms of local military organizations, 
1789-1875; Capt Driver's original 
"Old Glory" flag; wooden torpedo, 
from Charleston, S. C, harbor (Civil 
War) ; wheel used in Salem at the 
time of the draft, 1863 ; collection of 
relics of the Civil War, — muskets, 
swords, pistols, dirks, knapsacks, 
canteens, drums, bullets, shot and 
shell, etc.; Waterloo relics; Crimean 
war relics ; Emilio collection of mili- 
tary buttons, etc., etc. 

Out of-doors Museum. In the 
the ijarden in the rear of the Insti- 





ORIGINAL "OLD GLORY," 1831. 



Built 



JOHN WARD HOUSE 
1G81. In Essex Institute Garden. 



tute {entrance at the right of 
the main staircase) is a 17th 
century house (built in 1684) 
with overhanging second story 
and peaked windows in the 
roof. The rooms on the first 
floor are furnished in the man- 
ner of that period and the 
apothecary shop (1830), a Sa- 
leanto in the rear contains an 
lem "cent shop" (1830), and 
a weave room. Beside the 
house is a garden of 17th cen- 
tury flowers, an old time well- 
sweep and a small shoemaker's 
shop supplied with the equip- 
ment of about 1830. The vis- 
itors will also find the first 
Quaker meetine: house built in 



82 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



Salem in 1688 by Thomas Maule ; the 
liideon Tucker porch (1806) de- 
signed by Samuel Mclntire ; the porch 
from "Dr. Grimshawe House," see 
page 52; fhe cupola from the Pick-' 
man - Derby - Brookhouse mansion 
(about 1790) containing a Corne 
fresco ; a mile stone (1711), etc. 

Every year families destroy many 
articles which have, or hereafter may 
have, a historical value. Donations 
of the following objects are always 
acceptable to the society, for preser- 
vation in its museum and library, 
viz., paintings, portraits, and objects 
of art, miniatures, silhouettes, en- 
gravings, prints, photographs (espe- 
cially of Essex County places and 
people), stamps, seals, coins and 
medals, theatre bills, concert pro- 
grams, all kinds of circulars, continental and other currency, sam- 
plers and old needle work, old musical instruments, ancient furni- 
ture and clothing, old andirons, shovels and tongs, fire buckets, 
warming pans, tinder boxes, tools used in the various trades, old silver 
and metal spoons, old pewter, china, and glassware, old watches and 
clocks, autographs and other manuscripts, old bills, letters, and ac- 
count books, books, pamphlets, newspapers, magazines, directories, 
etc., in fact, all articles which now or in the future may throw light 
on our history, or manners or customs. 




GIDEON TUCKER PORCH (i 
Essex Institute Garden 




PtABOliY AIU.sLU.M ^hASl INIMA MAKINK HALL) 



THE PEA BODY MUSEUAl. 



The Peabody Museum of Salem owes its name to George Peabody 
of London who in 1867 gave the funds by which the museum of the 
East India Marine Society founded in 1799 and the natural history 
collections of the Essex Institute were combined in an institution in 
the hands of trustees conducted for the "Promotion of Science and 
Useful Knowledge in the County of Essex.* 

The Salem East India Marine Society was an unique institution, 



* George Peabody was born in South Danvers, — named Peabody in liis honor 
in 1858, — February 18, 1795. He died in London. November 4, 1869 and was 
buried in Harmony Grove cemetery in Salem in February, 1870. The institu- 
tion was originally incorporated as the "Peabody Academy of Science", a mis- 
leading name changed by act of legislature to the "Peabody Museum of 
Salem." 



(83) 



84 visitor's guide to sai.em 

its membership being restricted to "any persons who shall have nav- 
igated the seas near the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn, either as 
Masters or Commanders, or (being of the age of twenty-one years) as 
Factors or Supercargoes of any vessels belonging to Salem." The ob- 
jects of the organization were : — First, to assist the widows and chil- 
dren of deceased members who may need it ; Second, to collect such 
facts and observations as tend to the improvement and security of nav- 
igation and, Third, to form a Museum of natural and artificial curiosi- 
ties, particularlv such as are to be found beyond the Cape of Good 
Hope and Cape Horn." The first gift to the museum was from 
Capt. Jonathan Carnes, a number of objects from Sumatra, several 
of which are still preserved and treasured as the nucleus of the Pea- 
body Museum. 

The East India Marine Society at first occupied rooms on the third 
fioor of the Stearns building, which formerlv stood at the northeast 
corner of Washington and Essex streets, but, in 1804, the Society 
moved to rooms expressly fitted for the purpose in the then new 
Pickman building, which occupied the present site of the Downing 
lilock, 173 Essex street. It is an interesting fact that these rooms 
were later tlie home, successively, of the Athena-um, the Historical 
and Natural History societies, and the Essex Institute. Between the 
years 1804 and 1820, the collections rapidlv increased, the museum 
liecame crowded and, in 1824, the East India Marine Hall building 
was erected. The lower floor was occupied by the Asiatic Bank, the 
(')riental Insurance Office, and the U. S. Post Office, while the large 
hall above, one hundred feet long and fifty feet wide, was devoted 
to the museum and the social meetings of the organization. The 
dedication, a great event at the time, took place October 14, 1825, 
John Quincy Adams, then President of the XTnited States, delivering 
the opening address. 

During the v'ears which followed, accessions to the ethnological 
department of the museum, from China, India, the Pacific Islands, 
Africa and South America, were numerous and valuable, while at 
the meetings of the society there came together, socially, the trav- 
elled merchants and ship-masters of Salem: elegant suppers were 



THE PEAliODY MUSEUM 85 

served on the great crescent shaped table which formerly occupied 
the center of the hall, and many distinguished guests were enter- 
tained. 

As early as 1821 the society printed a catalog of its museum which, 
even then, was arranged as a scientific collection. It is interesting 
besides to record that, during the entire century and more of its 
existence, no admission fee has ever been charged visitors to the mu- 
seum. At first, meml^ers' cards admitted to the hall which was kept 
open during the warmer months and since the museum has been in 
the hands of the Peabody Trustees its doors have been constantly 
open, free to all. The East India Marine Society exists today as a 
board of trustees acting solely under the first clause of its organiza- 
tion, distributing the income of its fund among the families of its 
members "who may need it". 

The Peabody Museum now occupies the East India Marine Hall 
building erected in 1824, the Ethnological building erected in 1885, 
with the lecture hall (Academy Hall) on the lowe'r floor, and Weld 
Hall, with work rooms and offices on its lower floor, built in 1906, 
the gift of Dr. Charles G. Weld, a benefactor of the institution in 
many other ways. Tlie museum has published memoirs, reports and 
pocket hand books on natural history and other subjects. It con- 
ducted one of the first summer schools of biology and maintains lec- 
tures and classes in natural history and cooperates with local school 
boards and with private schools in class work at the museum. 

The work of the institution is conducted and its museum is main- 
tained entirely from the trust funds and the contributions of gen- 
erous friends; it has no other source of income. The annual" ex- 
penses have increased witli the growth of the museum and the de- 
mands of the times and its work and usefulness could be greatly ad- 
vanced by additions to its fund and income. The publications, pho- 
tographs of objects in the collections, etc., may be obtained of the 
constable in the museum. Those who desire information regardino- 
the specimens, or in relation to scientific subjects should make in- 
quiries at the offices or on request the constable will call some officer 
of the museum. 





PEABODY MUSEUM MARINE ROOM-TWO VIEWS. 



THE PRABODY MUSEUM »/ 

THE MARINE ROOM. 

The Marine Room collections occupy the large front room and the 
corridor cases and walls on the lower floor of the East India Marine 
Hall building directly at the public entrance. The collection includes 
the portraits of prominent Salem merchants, members and officers of 
the Salem East India Marine .Society, together with many interest- 
ing relics connected with the early social character of that institu- 
tion ; a large collection of paintings and full-rigged and builder's 
working models of old types of sailing vessels and objects of every 
sort illustrating the life of a sailor. It forms a fitting memorial of 
the commercial-marine history of Salem and the shipmasters and 
merchants who, — as indicated in the motto of the city seal, — brought 
to Salem "the riches of the Indies" and carried her name and fame 
"even to the remotest ports". "*' 

In the corridor case next the main entrance are arranged the 
objects illustrating the whaling industry; also the nautical instru- 
ments. I'he whaling collection begins with the natural history of 
whales and continues with harpoons, bomb-lances, shoulder guns, 
used in their capture and a huge Norwegian bomb harpoon fired 
from a cannon on whaling .steamers. On the wall opposite are 
hafted implements ready for use, — harpoons, old and recent forms, 
lances, cutting-spades and "grains". In another section of the case 
are the products of the industry, — oils, spermaceti, whalebone, tooth 
ivory and ambergris, the last a product of disease of the sperni 
whale and varying in value from two to four hundred dollars per 
pound. There are full-rigged models of the whaling bark "Sea 
Fox", a whaling brig from Provincetown and a whale-boat, besides 
several paintings, eight half-hull models of old-time whaling ves- 
sels and many souvenirs made on long voyages by sailors. 

Among the nautical instruments are quadrants from 1750 to 
I860, sextants, circle of reflection, half-circle, nocturnal of 1724, 
implement for drawing curves, of 1693, logs, artificial horizons, 

* The city seal was designed by Col. George Peabody in 18.39. The origi- 
nal sketches may be seen at the Essex Institute. 



88 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




L 



NOCTURNAL, 1724. 



compasses, sounding leads, etc. In the 
hallway beyond are builder's half-hull 
models of Salem ships and others from 
1794 to 1866, models of the "Constitu- 
tion," "Flying Cloud" and a three- 
masted schooner beautifully made by 
the donor, Herbert M. S. Skinner of 
Fall River. There are more than one 
hundred hull models in the collection, 
two of which are made to show timber 
construction. 

In the Marine Room are the portraits 
of Salem merchants and ship-masters 
and members of the East India Marine 
Society,— Derby, West, Gray, Peabody, 
Pickman, Silsbee, Bertram and many 
more, and a large collection of original 
paintings of Salem ships bv well known 
painters of the period from 1795 
to 1840, Roux of Marseilles, Sal- 
mon, Corne, and others. In the 
central case are full-rigged mod- 
els of the ship "Friendship", 
1797, the privateer "America", 
1813, the armed brig "Rising 
States," probablv 1786, the U. S. 
S. "Ohio", 1820 and a model of 
the frigate "Constitution" given 
the museum in July, 1813, by 
Capt. Isaac Hull while fresh 
from his capture of the "Guer- 
riere". This model, the most ac- 
curate known of the frigate, was 
followed in rigging "Old Iron- 
sides" in 1907 when restored by 
order of Congress. There are 




Swift of whale ivory made by a sailor. 




SHIP "HERCULES," AT NAPLES, 18(i;i. 




PRIVATEER "GRAND TURK," ENTERING MARSEILLES, 1815. 



^^W^d 



^^l^^i^vnpWi 



MODEL OF BRIG "RISING STATES," BUILT IN 1783 




THE pf:abody museum 



91 



rigged models of old and recent 
fishing schooners, "pinkies", 
"Block Island" boat, barks, 
ships and schooners and sloop 
yachts. Among the relics and 
sailors' handiwork are "scrim- 
shaw" whale's teeth and walrus 
tusks engraved with curious de- 
signs, a carved "swift" of bone 





"Heaven and the Day of Judgment, 
14th century wood carving. 



Scrimshaw work on a whale's tootli, 1S25. 

and ivory, "jagging- wheels" for 
crimping the edges of pastry, work- 
boxes, carved cocoanut dippers and 
other souvenirs of long voyages. 
The room is bordered with sea 
and chart chests that have been on 
many an old ship and some that 
have actually circumnavigated the 
glolie on Salem vessels. The sex- 
tant used by Dr. David Living- 
stone on his African explorations 
is preserved here. It was brought 
home by a Salem ship-master who 
obtained it when Dr. Livingstone's 
efi'ects were sold at Zanzibar. 
Among the relics of the early social 
activities of the East India Marine 
Society are the punch bowl, 1786, 
made in China for Derby's "Grand 
Turk", of Salem, the first ship from 
New England to visit Canton, the 
liuge cfcina soup tureens given the 
society in 1804 and other bowls and 
pitchers used at the banquets of the 
society from 1800 to 1830. Here 
also is the remarkable carving in box- 
wood, representing "Heaven and the 



92 visitor's guide to SALEM 



Day of Judgment," 109 full iength figures and heads, all exquisitely 
carved, being crowded into two hemispheres each but one and one- 
half inches in diameter. This carving Avas the work of a monk in the 
fourteenth century and was the terminal ornament of an elaborate 
rosary owned by some noble or prince. It was given the museum in 
1806 by Gen. Elias Hasket Derby who received it from a gentleman 
of Westphalia who was travelling in this country. 

The cases at the left of the entrance corridor, while connected 
with the Marine Room, are used for special exhibitions of timely in- 
terest which are frequently changed. 

The Trustees of the Peabody Museum are : — George Agustus Pea- 
body, President: Elibu Thomson. Vice-President; Richard Wheat- 
land, Secretary and Clerk, John Robinson, Francis Henry Apple- 
ton, Dudley Leavitt Pickman, William Crowninshield Endicott 
John Charles Phillips and Frank Weston Benson. Treasurer' 
George Albert Vicker)-, Naumkeag Trust Company, Salem The of- 
ficers of the Museum are:— Edward Svlvester Morse, Director 
Emeritus; Lawrence Waters Jenkins, Assistant Director (in charge) 
and Curator of Ethnology ; Albert Pitts Morse, Curator of Natural 
History; John Robinson, Keeper of the Relics of the East India 
Marine Society (in charge of the Marine Room). 



From the Middle Entry pass up the stairs into the 
HALL OF NATURAL HISTORY. 

The natural history collections comprise two series ; one from the 
world in general, synoptic in character; and one from Essex County 
intended to be as complete as possible. ' ' 

The formation of a collection illustrating every species of the ani- 
mals, plants, and minerals ^f the County, as well as the relics of 
the prehistoric inhabitants, was one of the first aims of the Essex 
County Natural History Society in 1834, and this work has been 
continued by the Essex Institute and the Peabody Museum. 

The County contains about 550 square miles of territory, has 



THE PEABODY MUSEUM 



93 



some 60 miles of 
coast-line, one large 
river, several smaller 
ones, and nmiierous 
ponds. Few hills ex- 
ceed 300 feet eleva- 
tion, but the soils are 
varied in character, 
with woodlands and 
swamps favorable to 
plant and animal life, 
mud - flats, salt-marsh, 
sandy bcadies and 
rocky shores, hence 
the great variety of 
tiie fauna and flora in 
the Countv collection. 
Mammals of Essex 





Golden Eagle killed in Marble- 
1 eid, 1915. 



Wildcat killed in Danvers, 1821. 

County, (Floor) This collection in- 
cludes two wildcats which were taken in 
the county in 1821 and 1832, fine speci- 
meiis of the fox, mink, otter, raccoon, and 
harbor seal, besides the more common 
smaller mammals ; also, a cast of a pigmy 
sperm whale taken at Nahant, and the 
skeleton of a blackfish (a species of 
whale) which was killed near Beverly 
bridge, where it had become stranded by 
the outgoing tide. 

Birds of Essex County. (Floor) 
TJie local collection of birds is a notable 
one, containing 272 species, 916 speci- 
mens of birds actually taken within the 
limits of the county, besides the nests and 
eggs of many resident species. Numerous 
rare transients and accidental visitants 
are represented and several remarkable 



94 



VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM 



albinos, as well as various plumages of the more common species. A 
seasonal chart shows their distribution through the year, and a 
pocket list has l)een published wdiich forms a useful guide for the 
observer. 

Fishes and Reptiles of Essex County. (Floor) The collec- 
tion of reptiles contains examples of the rattlesnake, which is still 
found in the county in small numbers, and some rare turtles, includ- 
ing the great leathery turtle, a marine wanderer, wdiich was captured 
in a fishing net at Rockport ; that of fishes includes several of strik- 
ing proportions or unusual interest, e. g., the sturgeon, tunny, sunfish, 
swordfish, several sharks, and a codfish of gigantic size. 

Invertebrates of Essex County. (Floor) These are repre- 
sented by sponges, hydroids. shells of freshwater and marine mol- 
lusks, crabs, lobsters — including one which weighed 25 pounds and a 
special collection of abnormal lobster-claws of scientific interest; al- 
so, many insects and examples of their destructive work and archi- 
tecture (floor and central gallerv). 

General Zoological Collection. (Floor) This collection U 
synoptic in character and systematic in arrangement. Most of the 
specimens were received from the Essex InstUute, and many have 
been added by exchanges. A few of the large shells and some of the 
birds and reptiles came from the collection of the East India Marine 
Society. The most striking features are: — a fine collection of corals, 
particularly rich in East Indian species and fan coral ; a collection of 
rnollusks, the largest portion of which, for want of exhibition space, 
is kept in cases in a lower room, accessible only to students; a collec- 
tion of snakes and turtles, including several giant tortoises from the 
Galapagos Ids., and elsewhere ; a good representation of the families 
of birds ; a collection of marsupials from Australia and America ; a 
collection of mammals, including specimens of the bison, deer, bears, 
leopard, and many smaller species; and skulls and skeletons, in- 
cluding a very fine skeleton of the gorilla and two of man, male and 
female. 

The collection of heads and horns (South gallery and gallery rail- 
mg) contains 52 specim.ens, representing 36 species of large game 



]S 



THE PEA BODY MUSEUM 95 

from different parts of the world of interest to the sportsman and 
trophy-hunter. A special educational exhibit (Floor) compares 
horns and antlers, and another deals very fully and practically with 
the teeth of the horse, illustratinti; structure, growth and wear, youth 
and age, etc. 

Minerals and Rocks of Essex County. (Floor and southwest 
gallery) This collection was brought together by John H. Sears, a 
former curator, while engaged in a systematic survey of the county 
in behalf of the trustees. The collection includes more than 1300 
specimens. To illustrate their practical value in the arts and for 
building purposes, 100 specimens of the rocks are accompanied by 
polished examples placed beside the same rock in the natural state. 
Photographs of geological formations represented in the county, and 
in some instances, thin sections of the rocks prepared for microscopi- 
cal study, and enlarged prints from microphotographs, are also ex- 
hibited. 

A geological map of the county, indicating the outcropping 
rocks, prepared by Mr. Sears and published by the Essex Institute, 
ih based upon this collection. A copy hangs at the head of the east 
gallery stairs. 

School Collection of Minerals and Rocks. (Central gallery) 
Historical geology, rock formations, fossils ; minerals, — typical spec- 
imens arranged in systematic order ; ornamental stones, — geodes, 
agates, marbles, etc. The collections are arranged for the use of 
teachers and students of mineralogy and geology. Together they in- 
clude some 1200 specimens from all parts of the world. 

Botanical Collections. (West gallery) The exhibition collec- 
tion consists of a very full series of the woods of the county trees and 
shrubs, woods tested for strength and fuel value, nuts, acorns, and 
plants poisonous to handle. Also, a small collection of general 
character, composed chiefly of economic plants and plant products 
from all parts of the world, woods, gums, fibres, fruits, a turpentine- 
box, etc. 

The herbarium of County plants comprises about 4,000 sheets and 
is arranged in cabinets in Weld Hall. It may be consulted by 



96 



visitor's guide to SALEM 



Students on application to officers of the museum. No attempt is 
made to form a large collection outside of county specimens, but a 
considerable number of plants useful for comparison and general 
study are preserved in the herbarium. 

Prehistoric Relics of Essex County. (Northeastern gallery) 
Native rocks and implements made from similar materials. Axes, 
gouges, club heads, sinkers, arrow points, knives, pottery, miscella- 
neous relics. Stone implements, celts, arrow and spear points, from 
shell-heaps and graves. 

This collection is extensive and Avorthv of careful examination. 

Among the surface finds, the axes, 
gouges, knives, and spear and arrow 
points are especially fine. The objects 
from graves and shell-heaps are not only 
numerous, but of great rarity. Many 
mounted stone implements, from the 
later stone age of Alaska and elsewhere, 
are placed in this section, to show the 
probable mode of mounting the prehis- 
toric implements. The rocks of Essex 
County, from which the objects found 
were undoubtedly made, are shown in one 
case, togelher'with\implementsmade from 
each variety. All of the specimens are 
fully explained by the labels. At the 
foot of the gallery stairs is a large stone mortar, weighing 1022 
pounds, found at the site of an Indian village near the Ipswich 
river in Middleton. These prehistoric relics are, no doubt, the Avork 
of the tribes of Algonquin Indians which inhabited the region, or, in 
lare instances, inay have been obtained by them from more distant 
tribes, in warfare or by barter, before the coming of the white man 
as a permanent resident to these shores. But many of the specimens 
found in graves, associated with undoubted Indian skeletons, such 
as beads of European make, brass trinkets and copper cooking pots, 
clearly indicate contact with Europeans. These objects were un- 




Stone bear. Indian totem found 
in Salem. 



THE PEABODY MUSEUM 



97 



doubtedly olDtained during tlie sixteenth and early portions of the 
seventeenth centuries, and are. therefore, about 250 to 350 years old. 
]\']any of the oljjects of purely native ^vorkmanship may be much 
elder. 

The museum also possesses many of the types of New Jersey 
relics described by Dr. C. C. Abbott in his "Stone Age in New 
Jersey" and "Primitive Industry"; relics of the Swiss lake-dwellers, 
and implements from northern Europe. These may be seen and 
studied on application to officers of the museum. 



ETHNOLOGY HALL. 

Passing from the Natural Llistory Hall (southeast corner) the 
visitor enters Ethnology Hall. The cases are distinctly labelled by 
countries and regions. On the floor will be found the objects from 
the islands of the Pacific Ocean and Malay Archipelago while in the 
gallery are those from Africa, North and South America and the 
island of Yeso. The 
table cases on the floor 
and the gallery rail 
cases contain the small- 
er objects belonging to 
the group immediately 
adjacent. The value of 
these collections, as 
well as those from Chi- 
na and India, is greatly 

enhanced by the fact that many of the objects were brought back dur- 
mg the early years of the last century. Attention is called to a few of 
the more rare and interesting specimens. 




Figurehead of New Zealand war canoe. 



Polynesia (17 sections). 

Nrru Zealand. Carved figurehead of a war canoe, named Koma- 
rurua, built at Alangatapu by the Whanau-a-Apanui tribe and sold 
to the Ngati-Tai tribe in 1830; shark's tooth ceremonial knife; stone 
clubs ; jade ornaments ; and carved nose flutes. 




PEABODY MUSEUM HALL OF ETHNOLOGY AND WELD HALL. 



THE PEABODY MUSEUM 



99 



Marquesas. Large clubs decorated with grotesque faces ; carved 
foot rests for stilts ; clubs ornamented with bunches of human hair ; 
neck ornaments of braided human hair ; and ear ornaments carved 
from whale's teeth. 

Hawaii. Idol, six feet tall, one of many which formerly stood in 
the sacred enclosures on the island of Hawaii, only three of v/hich 
are now known to be \\\ existence, one in the 
British Museum and one in the Bishop Mu- 
seum, Honolulu ; very fine royal necklace of 
braided human hair with pendant carved from 
a whale's tooth ; fans of rare form ; gourd 
drmii for the hula dance ; very fine baskets ; 
a lava slab with depressions for some game 
played with coral pellets, and many stone im- 
plements. 

Easter, Manahiki, Savage, Samoa and To- 
kelaii. Carved ancestral figures from Easter 
Island ; blocks for printing designs on tapa 
and m.at with feather border, from Samoa ; 
Tokelau buckets collected by Robert Louis 
Stevenson. 

Hervey, Society and Tonga. Finely 
carved ceremonial paddles, adzes and food 
ladle, from Hervey islands ; large gorgets 
ornamented with feathers and human hair, 
and tapa with fern designs, from Society 
islands ; ornament of orange cowries and 
carved clubs, from Tonga islands. Hawaiian idoi. 

Melanesia (23 sections). 
Fiji. Over 130 clubs and spears, in great variety, some orna- 
mented with shell beads; unique double roofed devil's temple; fork 
and large wooden bowl used in cannibal feasts ; very large bowls for 
mixing the native intoxicant — kava ; dresses, wigs ; hair pins and 
*niat needles made from human bones. 




J 00 



VISITOR'S Guide to sai.em 




New Briiauij N eiv Hebrides, New 
'Ireland and Solomon. Stone headed 
clubs from New Britain ; very small 
bow and arrows from New Hebrides, 
curious dance masks and beautifviUy 
carved canoe ornaments, from New 
Ireland: spears and arrows with fish 
bone barbs, human skull inlaid with 
pearl shell and very fine "long-pig'' 
bowl for cooking human flesh, from , 
Solomon islands. 

Neii> Guinea. Stone adzes ; mor- 
tars for crushing the betel nut, the 
native substitute for chewing tobac- 
co ; bird of paradise showing the 
method of preparing the skin by the 
natives as tribute to their chiefs. \u 
this condition, by barter, these skins. 
^^ ith the legs removed, found their 
wav to Europe, and finding no legs, 
ignorant people supposed the bird 
was always on the wing, like the 

heavenly cherubs. For this reason, and not for their beauty, the 

name "paradise bird" was given. 

Micronesia (8 sections). 

Gilbert. Baskets ; weapons edged with shark's teeth ; life size 
figure completely dressed in cocoanut fibre armor including the verv 
rare gauntlets set with shark's 
teeth. 

Caroline and Marshall. 
Clubs ; spears ; A^ery large 
adzes with blades made of tri- 
dacna, or giant clam shells ; 
necklaces of human and dog's 

teeth" and woven oraSS belts Cannibal bowl, 49 in. long. Solomon islands. 




Unique model of Fiji devil's temple. 




THE PEABODY MUSEUM 



101 



of beautiful design and color, from the Caro- 
line islands. Dance wands and twine covered 
svith basket work ; large rigged model of double 
canoe and native chart, from Marshall islands. 
Australia (2 sections). 
Queensland and Ne^^: South Wales. Boom- 
erangs ; parrying shields ; clubs ; spears edged 
with flmt ; spear throwers for increasing the 
velocity of the spear; and bull-roarers vised in 
initiation ceremonies of native societies. 
IVIalav Archipelago (15 sections). 
PhilUppines. Spears ; shields ; head axes ; 
head basket ; curious head ornament made from 
ihe beak of 1 bird ; and carved figures, from the 
Bontoc and Ifugao tribes of Luzon. Brass 
bowls and betel boxes ; coat 
of chain armor with carabao 
horn plates ; and brass can- 
non, from the Moros of 
Mindanao. Very curious bas- 
ket from Basilan. Collec- 
tions from Samar and Min- 
doro, including odd native 
Mangyan writing on bambu. 

Formosa. Armor covered 
curious carved loving cups ; chief's tunic made 
of civet skin ; necklace made of wasp's heads ; and 
breast ornament of boar'-; tusks and human hair 
worn only l)y a man who has taken many heads. 
Borneo. Swords ornamented with locks cif hu- 
man ]-iair ; large brass gong with dragon in relief , 
and finely woven baskets with designs in red and 
black. Boxes and model of a boat made of cloves 
from Amboyna. 



\i,Tmm. 





Gilbert Island warrior. 

with snake skin 



Mangaian adz. 



102 

VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM 



<.»,;» ,"i's,r ■" ■•"■ •■••• •" '■■■'*•'•'■ .«i 1. 

Africa (20 sections). 

n,emtd"vdf^r„ b':r:;,:Sen"""'^"' '"~-; an'd nose orna- 
br,de's shoes inlaid with mother-of-pearlfand gan« f ^l^Tu^^^^ 

British and German East Africa Iron c^narl. 

SlTol'S/s'-f-t-.T-l"^*" 

for smoking: Wrora,n:,S* ■fl/Si.Zllf .a"^ 'o?7 "T^' 
body from lake N,.^™, ''"™" '^^"^ ^"* W="i«^ ""ough the 



THE PEABODY MUSEUM 



103 



Madagascar. .Musical instrument 
made of bambu with the outer sur- 
face lilted to form the strings and 
a large leaf for a sounding board; 
fine cloths; and models of carrying 
chairs. 

Zululand. Assegais; knob ker- 
ries; headdresses of ostrich feath- 
ers; and bead girdles and armlets. 
Kongo. Drums with stands 
carved in human form; long drum 

carved in 
relief with 
a snake 
swallowing 
a man ; fet- 
ish drum 





Mangaiija Ceremonial Axe. 



Monbuttu fetish drum. 



used by the 

Monbuttu tribe ; war horn made of an ele- 
phant's tusk; beautifully woven chief's 
caps; spears, axes and throwing knives of 
many forms; fetish figures; and a collec- 
tion made on Stanley's trip through 
"Darkest i\frica," including chief Mako- 
ko's brass collar. 

Guinea Coast and Sudan. Seats carved 
from a single log; stone water filter; fine 
leather quivers, scabbards, bridles and 
pouches; cloths; hammocks; woven dish 
covers; models of canoes; and fetishes of 
odd materials. 

Sahara. Hide water bottles; pangolin 
shell and rhinoceros hide shields; and 
shell and bead ornaments. 



104 



VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM 




Yezo (4 sections). 
The Ainu savages of Yezo (of Caucasian 
stock) were the precursors of the Japanese 
and Ainu place names, as far south as Sat- 
suma, indicate, as early Japanese history 
does, that formerly the Ainu occupied the 
whole region. They are no^Y confined to 
Sakalui and Yezo. In tins collection may be 
seen a salmon skin coat and boots; cedar 
bark coats; rude bows and arrows; and a 
Japanese painting of a bear ceremony. 

NoKTH America (.22 sections). 
Alaska and AL-utian Islands. Coat with 
hood and cape, made from the intestines of 
the seal, which formerly belonged to Kin<.- 
Kamehameha I of the Hawai^ian islands'^ 
curious chief's hat: verv long belt set with 
caribou teeth; pipe, beautifully engraved 
made from a walrus tusk; and models of 
kiaks, the native canoes 

bluett Inf TT'r f"^' '''''''' ^'"P^^^"^ PiP^^; ceremonial 
blankets, la ge hats Inielv woven ; old baskets; and the breast bone 
01 a trumpeter swan covered with basket-work 

ra^'arrb!-''';;!"T-l ^""^ Ti' ''T ^'''' ^^^'^ California. These 
ratts are like the balsas of Lake Titicaca, Peru. Rare ceremonial 
feather headdress of the Hupa Indians; old bead and qu K wo k 
'ron tomahawk from a lot sent over from France in 1744; medkine 
pouch beaver skm : scalp of a Crow Indian: sash worn bv cSef 

Tt l .A \ 1"" V''''' ^'"^"''^' ■' ^'^' ''^^ d'-^^^ed figure of a Pal 

Ute; and a large Penob-scot canoe given in 1826 

Mexico. Ceremonial arrows from shrine; spindles; and crude 

neck^' T '^'" "^T ^r^""" ''^'^^"" '''^'^^ head-bands; bead 
necklaces of married and unmarried men ; bead wristlets with design 
of star-.shaped sacred plant "toto" ; piece of hikuli, a sacred cactus 



Ancient .Mexican figure. 



THE PEABODY MUSEUM 105 

used ceremonially as an intoxicant ; priest's tobacco gourd, those with 
many natural excresences being most valued ; bows and arrows ; and 
quivers made from deer skin, from the Huichol Indians. Figures of 
native workmanship illustratmg native scenes and customs ; ancient 
jiottery figure ; and ancient stone mortar in form of owl used for 
grinding chili. 

Central Ajiicrica. Ancient and modern pottery; and stone nic- 
tates for grinding corn, from Costa Rica, San Salvador and Nicara- 
gua . 

South America (7 sections). 

Vciu'ziu'la. Old apron of seeds; quiver for poisoned darts; and 
sago, squeezer. 

Brazil. Brilliant feather headdresses and ornaments from tribes 
on the Upper Amazon ; blowgun and poisoned darts ; native clay 
cup containing poison used on darts ; and a leather suit and hat. 

Peru. Pottery with interesting decorations, finely woven cloth 
and a basket containing implements for weaving, from pre-Inca 
graves ; bow covered witb basket-work ; and a necklace of seeds and 
bird skins of brilliant plumage 

Bolivia and Ecuador. Ponchos and belts of bright colors ; knitted 
caps and masks worn for protection against blowing sands of the 
desert; Jivaro reduced human head; cups and tubes for drinking 
mate, a substitute for tea ; and models of balsas or native rush rafts. 

Tierra del Fuego. Spear points of wood and bone ; knife with 
bottle glass blade ; bows, arrows with bottle-glass points ; feather 
headdress of a chief ; colored earth used for painting the body ; bas- 
kets ; and models of bark canoes. 

WELD HALL. 

Passing from Ethnology Hall (south west corner) the visitor now 
enters Weld Hall. On the floor will be found the objects from 
Japan. This is the most comprehensive collection of Japanese 
ethnology in the world, while in the neighboring city of Boston will 
be found at the Museum of Fine Arts the most comprehensive col- 



106 



VISITOR- S GUIDE TO SALEM 



lection of Japanese art in the world 
In the gallery will be found the collec- 
tions from Asia. 

Japan (78 sections). 
Armor and Weapons. Beautifully 
lacquered stand of bows and arrows; 
small bows and arrows which bear the 
same relation to the larger ones as a pis- 
tol to a gun; quivers of many forms; 
finely wrought and perforated arrow 
points; spears with shafts inlaid with 
mother-of-pearl; many forms of armor 
and helmets; life size figure of a war- 
rior dressed in armor; richly mounted 
swords ; sword and gun cases inlaid with 
mother-of-pearl ; military flags and sig- 
nals; torch for burning camphor for 
signalling at night ; and a brocade badge 
worn by Imperial soldiers in Yeddo m 
the revolution of 1867. 

Pottery. A representative collection 
of the potteries, of Japan, including the 
products of 218 different ovens repre- 
senting 39 provinces. 
^ Sacra. Models of Buddhist and Shinto temples and shrines • very 

f^K f-f n ■^■'''^^^'i'^ ^^^ ^'°^^^^ offerings; votive tab- 
let beautifully mscnbcd in Sanskrit letter bv a priest of Hase tem- 
ple; large sword made in 1609— an offering t'o a temple; tablet offer- 
ing rewards for the apprehension of Christians in 1683; bronze tab- 
let, 10th century; rosaries of different sects with beads made of 
pearl, amber, agate, nuts, seeds and woods of various kinds 

Toys and Games. Foot halls; polo sticks; stilts; a game of 
shells, beautifully painted about 1680; lacquered toy household 
furniture used in the dolls festival; bows, arrows and target used in 
ladies archery; old dolls; go, chess, card and other games 




Japanese warrior previous to 1868. 



THE PEABODY MUSEUM 107 

Tools of Trades. Series illustrating the making of paper lan- 
terns ; wood turner's ; ivory carver's ; swordsmith's ; pottery maker's ; 
carpenter's ; cooper's, and many other trades. 

House Furnishing. Models of interiors of parlor and kitchen ; 
kitchen utensils ; vessels for serving food ; lamps and candlesticks ; 
tray, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, brought back by the first Salem 
vessel to visit Japan in 1801 ; curious clock indicating time by the 
movement of a brass butterfly; beautifully lacquered trays, tables, 
tubs and dressing cases used by the Daimyos ; objects used in the tea 
ceremony and in wine drinking. 

Personal Adornment. Life size dressed figures of the Samurai 
and peasant classes; suits and hats for ceremonial occasions; hunt- 
ing, etc.; clothmg for summer and winter; shoes of straw; socks 
with separate place for big toe to hold the cord of the clog; snow 
shoes ; fans for dances, for every day use and for defence ; hairpins 
of many varieties; imitation swords worn by doctors and other pro- 
fessional men. 

Musical Instruments. Drums for tea house and for military 
Cc-mp ; stringed instruments — koto, biwa and samisen ; flutes, fifes ; 
and horns made from large conch shells. 

Transportation. Norimono and kago, the sedan chairs of the 
Daimyo and the middle class ; model of a nobleman's bullock cart ; 
model of a jinrikisha, a two wheeled cart drawn by a man, invented 
by an American in 1867 ; beautifully lacquered saddles and stirrups; 
iron stirrups inlaid with silver ; horse armor ; large models of trad- 
ing junks of the late 18th century. 

Fishiftg. Models of native fish ; casting nets ; artificial flies ; iron 
fire pot used in cormorant fishing; blow-gun and darts used in 
shooting fish. 

S/wps. Models of pottery shop, lantern shop, hardware shop, 
etc. ; signs : pieces of old weather-worn wood with lacquered char- 
acters for dye house and restaurant ; large pipe for a tobacco store ; 
large writing brush for a stationer ; and a tortoise shell for a worker 
of shell. 



108 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




Asia (58 sections). 

China. Beautifully carved ivory gIob( 
containing twenty movable spheres; bird; 
carved from charcoal and colored : clay f^g 
ures representing casts, costumes and occupa- 
tions, mcluding a mandarin and wife giver 
m 1803 : large figure of Emperor Kin Td oi 
-Mmg dvnasty; gilt figure of god of - literatutt 
Irom a fort captured on the C;^nton river" bv 
(- ommodore James Armstrong, TJ. S. N., in 
1854 ; large figure of Wai Ton, the devil-kil- 
ler; life size figure of a Canton merchant 
given m 1801 (head and hands carved by 
Samuel Mclntn-e of Salem) ; life size figure 
of a mandarin given in T 838; eorgeous mili- 
tary uniforms; imperial yellow robe taken 
from the Emperor's apartments in the Sum- 
mer Palace, Peking, in J 860; very small 
shoes worn by women wdth compressed feet 
and casts of the feet ; enormous hats ; pillows 
of basketry, paper, wood and porcelain- 
r , , ,2-audiIv painted kites; porcelain tiles from 

Canton merchant, 1801. ^ aukin : bnck tea used as currencv " opuim 
smoking outfit and opium; soapstone models of pagodas an^' tombs 
models of trading unk : war junk and pleasure' boat; bronze mb: 
cary drums made about A. D. 250; military fla- captured in 1 S 54 ■ 
lag of rebel chieftain "How Look", given to J^m^' P Cool- a^st' 
lem merchant at Whampoa, for his protection • an nfth^e mtdicin ^ 
consisting of deer horn, centipedes, snake skins, lizards. roclS^'IgS 

teif on'ii?''^''''^! ^^"^'.^^'^ «f ^^^^Wha: sacred books writ- 
en on palm leaves with an iron stylus; drums and gongs of odd 
orms; curious reed musical instruments^ foot ball of^ambu and 
a present gn-en at a funeral of a royal person in the form of a pknt 
Avith native silver coins in the flowers. ^ 




THE PEABODY MUSEUM 



109 



India. Palanquin given in 1803; 
life size figures of Calcutta mer- 
chants ; figures representing trades 
and customs ; model of a market 
place with more tlian forty figures 
of people and animals ; stone and 
bronze figures from temples; beau- 
tiful alabaster model of the Taj 
Mehal, built by Shah Jehan as a 
tomb for his favorite wife ; knives 
carried by the Goorkhas of Nepal ; 
curious dagger the blade of which 
opens disclosing another blade with- 
in : swivel gun captured by the 
English at Rangoon, Burma, 
in 182 7 ; iron shield beau- 
tifullv inlaid with silver; water 
pipes or hookahs of clay, inlaid 
and incrusted with silver; fan made- 
of woven strips of ivory ; and musi- 
cal instruments of odd forms. 

Tibet. Temple vessels of brass 
and copper ; trumpets of temple 
band, telescopic and eleven feet in 
length when extended ; trumpet made of human thigh bone ; drum 
made from human skulls ; altar bowl of human skull ; rosaries of 
coral, silver and human bone ; altar lamps for burning butter ; and 
a block for printing charms against devils. 

Liu-Kill. Lacquer boxes ; wedding costumes ; wedding hairpins 
for men ; bow drill ; and large pottery burial urn. 




Portrait figure of a Calcutta 
merchant, 1849. 



no 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




I I |bJ m i«* J I 



ft?!""" f i 




THE ROPES MEMORIAL. 

The Ropes Memorial (318 Essex street), was established under 
the wills of Mary Pickman Ropes and Eliza Orne Ropes and is 
t^onducted by a board of trustees incorporated in 1912 It was first 
opened to the public on June 25, 1913. The trust includes the fam- 
ily mansion, its contents and the surrounding land, together with an 
ample maintenance fund and a special fund for botanical lectures 
I he wills provide, with certain restrictions, that the mansion shall 
be open to visitors who may desire to see the antique furniture, china 
etc., and that a garden shall be maintained on the premises and that 
lectures on botany shall be given annually. 

T T^\^T^^- r' ^"'^^ ^^^"^ ^^1- ^t came into possession of 
Judge Nathaniel Ropes in 1768 and remained in possession of a 
Nathaniel Ropes until the death of the fifth Nathaniel in 1893 
Judge Ropes was a loyalist and while he lay ill, on March 17 1774 
he was the object of an attack by a mob of patriots, and his'death' 
which occurred the next day, was undoubtedly hastened from this 



ROPES MEMORIAL, LIBRARIES, ETC. 111 

cause. The house contains furniture owned by Judge Ropes and by 
various decendants of his who have since occupied it, family por- 
traits, and a special room devoted to the Nanking china ware and 
Russian glass imported in 1816 for the wedding outfit of Sally 
Fiske Ropes who married her cousin Joseph Orne and resided here. 
The Ropes mansion and its contents form an admirable example of 
the house and equipment of a well-to-do town family in the early 
years of the nineteenth century. 

The Garden in the rear of the house is laid out in the old format 
style with shrubs around the borders and masses of bright floAvers in 
Che central beds, suitable arbors and seats are provided for rests, 
rhe lawns at each side are shaded by fine old trees and in the spring 
the borders are bright with flowering bulbs. 

The botanical lectures are given each year in January and Febru- 
ary by eminent instructors and the classes consist chiefly of teachers 
md students of botany. The class membership is limited and appli- 
cations must always be made in advance. 

The house is open to visitors on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 
ifternoons from 2 to 5 o'clock, excepting on holidays, from May 
o December ; the garden is open on afternoons through the sum- 
ner from 2 to 5 o'clock. No admission fee is charged. 

SALEM PUBLIC LIBRARY. 

On this estate, 370 Essex street, formerly stood a house in which 
•esided Miss Caroline Plummer, the donor of the several Plummer 
)equests. Capt. John Bertram purchased the estate after the decease 
)f Miss Plummer, and erected a fine brick dwelling house upon it in 
855. Some years after his death, his heirs, Dec. 1, 1887, offered the 
:state to the city for a public library building, and the offer was ac- 
cpted. Scarcely any alterations were made in the exterior of the 
milding, but the first, second and third floors were entirely removed 
md rebuilt in a much stronger manner. The library was opened to 
he public for the delivery of books, July 8, 1889, and now contains 
)3;000 volumes. In 1911-12 a large addition was built in the rear, 



112 



VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SAT, KM 




SALEM PUBLIC LIBRARY. 



containing a fire proof stack room and new reference and work 
rooms. The building is surromided witli an ample lawn, on which 
stands the "Bertram Elm," the finest American elm in this region, 
measuring 19 feet in circumference. In the reading room is a 
painting by Clement R. Grant, entitled "A Witchcraft Accusation," 
the gift of Mrs. C. B. Kimball. The library is open week days for 
the delivery of books from 9 A. M. to 9 P. M. The reading room 
is open every Aveek day from 9 A. M. to 9 P. M., and on Sundays 
from 2 P. M'. to 8 P. M. 



SALEM ATHENAEUM;, LIBRARIES, ETC. 



11. 



The South Branch Library, corner I>afayette street and Ocean 
avenue, a stucco building with colonial porch, was opened to the 
public April 12, 1913. The hours are from 2 to 9 P. M. 




THE SALEM ATHENAEUM. 



The Athenseum (339 Essex street) was incorporated March 6; 
1810. Its character and objects are in many respects like those of 
the Boston Athenaeum. It was the outgrowth of the "Social Libra- 
ry" of 1760, and of the "Philosophical Library" of 1781, the nucleus 
of which was a collection of scientific books captured in the Irish 
Channel by Capt. Hill, the privateersman. This estate was pur- 
chased with money bequeathed for public uses to the proprietors of 
the Athenaeum by Miss Caroline Plummer, who also established the 
Plummer Farm School and the Plummer Professorship of Morals 
at Harvard College. The bequest was thirty thousand dollars, and 
the purpose of the gift was the purchase of a lot of land and the 
erection of a suitable building for the uses named. She directed that 
The gift should be recorded in the name of her brother, Ernestus 



114 visitor's GUIDE TO SALEM 

Augustus Plujnmer. Accordingly a site now occupied by the museum 
building of the Essex Institute was purchased, and a hall was erected 
in 1857. See chapter on the Essex Institute, page 67. In 1906 
the present building, known as Plummer Hall, was erected, the gen- 
eral appearance of the exterior having been suggested by "Home- 
wood," a Baltimore, Md., residence, built in 1804. The present 
structure replaced the church edifice of the New Jerusalem (Sweden- 
borgian) society, built in 1871. Meetings of this denomination had 
been held in halls and private houses about Salem since 1840. The 
library of the Athenaeum contains 30,000 volumes and the number of 
shareholders is one hundred, but a limited number of persons not 
proprietors may avail themselves of the privileges of the library by 
paying an annual subscription. The rooms are oj^en from 9 A. M. to 
6 P. M.. daily, except Svuidays and holidays. 



ESSEX COUNTY LAW LIBRARY. 

The library of the old Essex Bar Association probably was found- 
ed soon after its organization in 1831. In 1839, at the time of its 
removal from the old Washington street Court House, it contained 
about four hundred vokimes. Seventeen years after, in 1856, when 
the present Ear Association Avas organized, the law library was taken 
over and it has steadily grown in size and importance since that 
time. It now contains over 25,000 volumes and is one of the best in 
the State and one of the ten best in the United States. Open on Aveek 
days from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. On Saturdays from 9 A. M. to 1 P. M. 



SALEM CHARITABLE MECHANIC ASSOCIATION. 

The library of this association, which was organized in 1817, is 
located at 246^^ Essex street. It contains (1916) 3217 volumes. 



CHAPTER VII. 
Public Buildings. 

Almshouse. As the Neck is entered from lower Essex street, on 
the left is seen the City almshouse built of brick. The land adjoin- 
ing is the city farm. The almshouse was erected in 1816, from the 
plans of Charles Bulfinch, and the next year was visited by President 
Monroe, as one of the sights of Salem. 

Cadet Armory. The state armory occupied by the 2d Corps of 
Independent Cadets, and Co. H, 8th Regt., M. V. M., 136 Essex 
street, stands on land formerly occupied in part by the residence of 
Gov. Simon Bradstreet. The present structure was built in 1908, 
after removing the residence of the late Col. Francis Peabody, which 
was built in 1820 by Capt. Joseph Peabody, as a residence for his 
eldest son, Joseph Augustus. In 1890 this house was purchased and a 
drill shed added. The "Banqueting Hall" was an interesting feature 
of the house. In this room Prince Arthur of England was entertained 
at dinner on the occasion of his attending the funeral of George Pea- 
body, the banker, Feb. 8, 1870. It was elaborately ornamented in 
carved oak, in the gothic style of the Elizabethan period. At one 
end a stained-glass window of four panels contained representations 
of both sides of the Massachusetts seal, the seal of the city of Salem, 
and the Peabody coat-of-arms. At the opposite end was a fireplace 
with Dutch jambs surmounted by a heavy chimney-piece of oak 
elaborately carved and containing niches ornamented with statuettes. 
The central figure was Queen Victoria, supported by mailed figures 
at each side. A lion surmounted the whole, with a guardsman and 
priest on either hand, ^^'hen the house was taken down in 1908, this 

(115) 



116 visitor's GUIDE TO SALEM 

carved oak finish was preserved and is now utilized in one of the 
small halls in the new Masonic Temple, Washington street. 

The drill shed of the present armor}^ is 170 feet long and 86 feet 
wide. It is also used by Co. H, 8th Regt., M. V. M., which occupies 
a connecting structure on Brown street, in the rear. In the Cadet 
Armory are two portraits by J. Harvey Young, who, when a Salem 
boy, lived on Oliver street, and became a distinguished portrait paint- 
er. They are deserving of special notice for their historic and ro- 
mantic, as well as artistic interest. One is the portrait of Colonel 
Elmer E. Ellsworth, painted from life while he was in Boston and 
Salem with his celebrated Chicago Zouaves. The companion picture, 
that of Lieutenant Brownell, was also painted in Boston from life] 
and in the same uniform he wore at the time he shot Jackson, Ells- 
worth's assassin, at Alexandria. Va.. May 24, 1861. These two 
portraits and one other were all that Mr. Young saved from the 
great fire at Boston in 1872, and soon after he presented them to the 
Cadets. 

The Salem Cadet Band, under the leadership of Jean Missud, has 
gained more than a national reputation. The Salem Brass Band, one 
of the oldest organizations of this character in the state, has its rooms 
in Central street. Salem has always been noted for its excellent mil- 
itary and concert bands, and its orchestras. The leadership of Jerome 
H. Smith of the old Salem Band, and the connection of Patrick S. Gil- 
more with the same organization as leader, which he left to take 
charge of his famous Boston and New York military bands, and later 
his gigantic jubilee concerts, will always be remembered in Salem. 

City Hall, 93 Washington street, was built from the surplus reve- 
nue of the United States treasury distributed in 1337 to the states, 
and by them among the towns and cities. It cost, when furnished) 
about $23,000, and is perhaps the only municipal structure in exist- 
ence paid for out of the United State treasury. In 1876 it was enlarged 
by an extension in the rear. In front is a plain, but rather effective 
granite facade, surmounted with a gilded eagle, carved by Mclntire, 
and originally placed on the fine wooden gateway at the western 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS^ HALLS^ ETC. 117 

entrance of the common. This gateway was taken away in 1850. 
The first floor of the city hall is devoted to the various city otfices. 
On the second floor the mayor's chamber occupies the entire front 
of the building and contains a fine copy of the full-length Washhig- 
ton, painted by Stuart for the state of Rhode Island, which hangs 
in the capital at Newport. There are also portraits of Leverett Sal- 
tonstall, the first mayor of the city, Gen. Henry Kemble Oliver, 
Abiel Abbott Low, and others. 

Across a small hall from the m.ayor's chamber is the council cham- 
ber, which remains substantially as to its furniture and appointments, 
with the exception of its electric lighting, as it was arranged in 1838. 

On the walls of this well-designed and dignified chamber are pic- 
tures of interest and merit. Another Washington hangs here, the 
v/ork of Jane Stuart, copied from a half-length portrait painted by 
her father. On Washington's left hangs a striking likeness of the 
Marquis de Lafayette, a copy by Charles Osgood, from a painting by 
the electrician, S. F. B. Morse. Perhaps the most notable work in 
the hall is a portrait of President Andrew Jackson, by Maj. R. E. 
W. Earle, of the general's military family, done in 1833, at the time 
of his northern tour, in the course of which he visited Salem, and 
representing him as a younger man and in a much less conventional 
light than the more familiar likenesses. There are several other por- 
traits of interest. 

On the left of the chair hangs a curious old parchment^ dated 1686, 
upon which is beautifully engrossed in obsolete handwriting a war- 
ranty deed of all the land in town, from the heirs of Nanepashemet, 
to the selectmen of Salem, in trust for our people. These Indians 
tmdertook, for the moderate consideration of twenty pounds, to con- 
firm and establish the title of the white colonists beyond all cavil, and 
affixed their marks in shapes which look like bows and arrows, toma- 
hawks, fish-hooks, samp-bowls, and tobacco pipes. 

The city hall is open from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. on every week day 
except holidays. On Saturdays it closes at 2 P. M. The city messen- 
ger will show the rooms to visitors. 



^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

Court Houses. Court House of 1692. In 1672 the first meeting 
house was removed and its timbers preserved and in 1676 re-erected 
into a town, court, school and watch house, about four rods westerly 
of Its original site. The next year the building was removed, being 
unfinished, to a place nearly opposite Lynde street, in the middle of 
Washington. T his was the court house from 1679 until 1718 The 
first story was used for a school room and the second story for 'public 
meetings and the sessions of the county courts. In this chamber the 
persons accused of witchcraft were "tried" in 1692. A bronze tablet 
by order of the city authorities, attached to the side of the Masonic 
iemple, /O Washington .street, reads as follows:— 

Nearly opposite this spot stood, in the middle of the street 
A building devoted, from 1677 until 1718, to municipal and 

JUDICIAL USES, in IT, IN 1692, WERE TRIED AND CONDEMNED FOR 
witchcraft MOST OF THE NINETEEN PERSONS WHO SUFFERED DEATH 
ON THE GALLOWS. GiLES COREY WAS HERE PUT TO TRIAL ON THE 
SAME CHARGE, AND, REFUSING TO PLEAD, WAS TAKEN AW^Y AND 
PRESSED TO DEATH. In JANUARY, 1693, TWENTY ONE PERSONS WERE 
TRIED HERE FOR WITCHCRAFT, OF WHOM EIGHTEEN WERE ACQUITTED 
AND THREE CONDEMNED, BUT LATER SET FREE, TOGETHER WITH ABOUT 
150 ACCUSED PERSONS, IN A GENERAL DELIVERY WHICH OCCURRED IN 
MAY. 

(See chapter on Witchcraft, page 11). 
Court House and Town House of the Revolution, Washington 
street. When the old court house, in which the witchcraft trials took 
J'-place, was discontinued for such use, in 1718, a new town and court 
house was built just westerly of the present First church in what is 
now a portion of Washington street, the front of the buildina bein^ 
toward Essex street. It was fifty feet long, thirty feet wide, and tweiv 
ty feet stud. The first story was the town house, and the second story 
the court room. It was destined to be the theatre of some of the most 
important events m the history, not only of Salem, but of the coun- 
try. A dinner was given to Sir William Pepperrell in this town 
house July 4, 1746. In it the General Court was held in 1728 and 
1729; the citizens in public town meeting denounced the stamp act 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS, HALLS^ ETC. 119 

of 1765, and the tax on tea in 1769; the General Court was con- 
vened here in June, 1774, and on the seventeenth it chose delegates 
to the first Continental Congress, in defiance of Governor Gage, this 
being the last General Assembly of the Province of the Massachu- 
setts Bay. General Gage lived during that summer in the Hooper 
house, in Danvers, only three miles away. August 12th a regiment 
of British regulars came from Boston by water, and the next day 
landed on Winter island. Aug. 24, hearing of an obnoxious town 
meeting that was being held in the town house for the purpose of 
choosing delegates to attend a patriotic convention at Ipswich, the 
governor ordered a detachment of the troops to break up the meeting. 
Eighty soldiers were despatched, stopping at the foot of Essex street 
to load, but when they reached the spot where the Essex Institute now 
stands, they learned that the business of the meeting was over and 
the voters had dispersed, and they returned to their encampment on 
the island. September S, the governor called a meeting of the Gen- 
eral Court at the town house for October 5th. Believing that imme- 
diate danger from the people here was over, the troops were ordered 
back to Boston. Sept. 18th, the governor found that he had been 
mistaken in his idea of the submission of the people, and so recalled 
the order for the meeting of the General Court. In spite of the re- 
call, however, over ninety representatives had gathered on the day 
preceding the date for the opening of the court. The leading patri- 
ots, Samuel Adams,. John Elancock, Benjamin Lincoln, and others, 
were here. On that day a chest of tea had been taken from a man 
who had brought it from Boston, and in the presence of over two 
hundred people it was burned in the middle of Court street, now 
Washington. At three o'clock the next morning fire was discovered 
in a warehouse belonging to Col. Peter Frye, a loyalist, who lived 
on Essex street, where the Perley block now stands. His house, the 
meeting-house of the Tabernacle church, which stood next easterly 
of the warehouse, and dwelling-houses, barns, stores, warehouses, and 
other buildings, extending to Town House square and along Wash- 
ington street, were destroyed. The town house caught fire, the 
flames being extinguished bv the strenuous efforts of Marblehead 



^■^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

firemen but not until the paint and cornices had been burned off and 

tre"d?n:^t??'' 'i^- ^'^-!;^^^- ™^^ ^^- -i- °f thetuildings 
^ere still hot and smoking, the representatives convened in the town 

g v^rC^ ^^'^"^^ ^'' ^^^ -t ^f resp^cEtr^h^ 

gmernment, for the governor to come and administer their oaths 
He did not appear, and they met again the next mornin^ and ortan 
ludon's ' Th'"""^ Congress and chose a committee to dC up res" 
lutions The next day, Friday, October 7, 1774 thev again met 
adopted the resolutions, and adjourned to toncord Thesf resoTu ' 
ion , as printed m the Essex Gazette the next Tuesday, may be seen 

?n puttw'it •?/'•'"''• '^'" "^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^--^1 -'' of the Prov Se 
m putting Itself m open antagonism to the British government The 

chairman was John Hancock, afterwards president^of thrContine 

tal Congress and first signer of the Declaration of Independence 

The secretary was Benjamin Lincoln, afterward General T^nn.l 

uy lue ciT_\, oears the following inscription: 

Three rods west of this spot stood, from 1718 untii 17«^ 
THE Town House. Here Governor Burnet convened the gen' 

ERAL court in 1728 AND 1729. A TOWN MEE^ heed HERE IN 
1765 PROTESTED AGAINST THE STAMP ACT. AND ANOTHER Tn ^760 
DENOUNCED THE TAX ON TEA. Here MEt/ IN 1774 THE LAST cH 

GATES Tj^THEF'^.^'r"^'^^"" ^^ GOVERNOR GaGE, CHOSE D.LF: 

aIJS ^^ Continental Congress. The house of 

house, ro MEET AT SaLEM, WAS ORDERED BY THE GOVERNOR mrr 
THIS. BY LATER PROCLAMATION. HE REFUSED TO RECOGNIZE In CON 

OCTO^FR^l^r""'""^' ™^ "^"^^^^ "^^ -- TH?S TOWN house" 
OCTOBER 5, AND AFTER ORGANIZING RESOLVED THEMSELVES TNrn A 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS,. SCHOOLS^ HALLS,. ETC. 



121 



The Court House axd Town House built in 1785, was erected 
in the middle of Washington street, nearly opposite the Tabernacle 
church. It was an admired work of Mclntire, and oil paintings of it 
are at the Essex Institute. The construction of the tunnel under the 
street, in 1839, necessitated its removal. Here Washington was pre- 
sented to the townspeople, Oct. 29, 1789, while on his eastern tour. 




CUUki houses on federal .SlREKi. 

The Court Hoi ses on Federal Street. The old granite court 
house, built in 1839-1841, was opened for public use, March 21, 1842. 
It is one hundred and five feet long, fifty-five feet broad, and two 
stories in height. Its four columns, tAvo at each end, are of the Cor- 
inthian order They are granite monoliths, and their flutes and capi- 
tals are said to be copied from those in the Tower of the Winds at 
Athens. Each column is three feet, ten inches in diameter and 
thirty-two feet high, including the base and capital. The walls are 
of solid granite, and all the floors are supported bv brick arches. The 



^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 



ZJifi building was about $80,000. The architect was Richard 
Bond of Boston and the principal contractors were Samuel S. Stand- 
ley and Henry Russell, Jr., masons, of Salem. From the time of the 

Salem ^TlV"^'';'' ^''^ ?!,"' '^^"'^"^§ "^^ '''' ^^^^ ^«-t house in 
Salem The Courts were held m the upper story, while the lower was 
devo ed to county offices. This court house was remodeled in 1889 
and the whole lower floor devoted to the registry of deeds and the 
second story to the probate office and court room. In 1910 the hiter- 
lor of the buildmg was remodeled to accommodate the county offices 
-Ihe land adjoining this building was purchased in 1857 and a 
brick court house built thereon in 1861. The building was formally 
dedicated to the use of the courts, Oct. 3, 1862. Enoch FulleTwas 

T^' 1 R«7 Ti!' '"^ ^'"^'''^ ^^"^^ ""^ ^^'^''^^' Towle the contractors! 
In 1887, the construction of an additional fireproof buildina was 
commenced m connection with the brick court house. It was finished 
n 1889, at an expense of $147,1 15.31 This addition, while annexed 
the court house of 1861, overshadows it both in size and architec- 
ural pretensions. It was dedicated Feb. 2, 1889, and contains on the 
n^H h ?J a/^ourt room and the large and commodious rooms occu- 
pied by the clerk of courts. In the second story are two court rooms 
and the spacious room provided for the law library. On entering it 

cZl' Tr\'T"^ ■'"''^' ' ^''^'^^'' -^^ '^''''^' that, like one in the 
castle of Chillon, it seems to dominate the whole room. Portraits of 
distinguished members of the bar hang around the room 

h.f^t'Z!''V-?v^'^' ^^T^'' '^ Chief-Justice Lemuel Shaw, painted 
by the late William M. Hunt, hangs over the judge's bench in the 
fiont court room, and is considered a masterpiece of that distinguished 
artibt. But the attraction in this court house, which brings tS it an- 
nually thousands of visitors from all parts of this country, as well as 
many from foreign lands, is to be found in the office of the clerk of 
the courts on the ground floor (entrance at the end of the passac^e- 
M-ay between the two court houses). Here the curious may^fiid t 
manuscript, all the testimony preserved in the famous witchcraft 
trials, and the original death warrant of Bridget Bishop, with the 
return of the sheriff thereon, which return, serious and soLm as the 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS, HALLS, ETC. 



u: 



business was, provokes a smile when we read that he "caused her to 
be hanged by the neck till she was dead and buried" ; and find that, 
as if realizing that he was getting a little idtra vires, he has drawn 
his pen through the words "and buried". Here also may be seen the 
"witch pins," which, it is said, the afflicted ones claimed were used 
by the accused as among the instruments of torture. 

The clerk's office is open from 8 A. M. to 5 P. M., except on Sun- 
days and legal holidays. On Saturdays it closes at 1 P. M. 

The fine granite building occupied by the registry of deeds and 
probate court, was opened for use July 31, 1909. Charles H. Black- 
all of Boston, was the architect. The cost, includmg the site, was 
$441,469.16. . , . ^ .^ ,. 

There is not much to interest the general visitor m this building, 
but the antiquarv and genealogist delight to pore over the old records 
of wills and deeds, dating from 1640, disclosing many a clue to old 
family estates and relationships. 

The registry of deeds and probate otKice are open every day except 
legal holidays and Sundays from 8.30 A. M. to 5 P. M., except Sat- 
urdays, when they close at 1 P. ISt. 

Custom House, 178 Derby street, is at the head of Derby wharf, 
one of the two largest and most important wharfs in Salem during the 
period of the town's greatest commercial prosperity. It was built of 
brick in 1818 and 1819 and is chief Iv interesting from its association 
with Nathaniel Hawthorne and Gen. James Miller of "Lundy Lane" 
fame. Upon this site formerly stood the homestead of George Crown- 
inshield, father of Benjamin, member of Congress and Secretary of 
the Navy ; and of Jacob, member of Congress, who declined the offer 
of a like distinction. The Crowninshield house had pilasters m 
front and was crowned with a cupola, on the top of which was a 
vane in the form of a merchant holding at arm's length a spy-glass, 
and scanning the horizon for his returning argosies. A committee of 
merchants selected the spot in behalf of the government ; and Perley 
Putnam and John Saunders were the contractors. The cost was $36,- 
000.00. There are pine boards measuring twenty-six inches in width 
in some of the dados. Slates of rare quality and dimensions were im- 



124 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




CUSTOM HOUSE, BUILT IN 1819. 

rorted from Wales, and flagstones for the sidewalks from Potsdam, 
IV i. Ihe bmldmg contains a portrait in pastel of Joseph Hiller 
the first collector under the Constitution, 1789-1801. Gen. Tames Mil- 

i«in c ° '?^- "^''"'^^' ^^^'''" '^'^'^ *^ collector here from 1825 to 
1849. Since his time the interest manifested in the Custom House 
centers mainly in the fact that, from 1846, some years of Nathaniel 
Hawthorne s service in the revenue department were spent here as 
!r''?'°L'?^ customs, in the southwesterly room on the first floor of 
the building. The stencil with which he marked inspected goods 
N Hawthorne 'is still shown, but the desk on which he wrote will 
be found at the Essex Institute. Many of the characters and scenes 
depicted in the sketch of the custom house in the "Introduction to the 
bcarlet Letter, were realities; but the manuscript was as fictitious as 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS^ HALLS^ ETC. 125 

Surveyor Pue's connection with the story. The room in which tradi- 
tion says the scarlet letter was discovered is that in the rear of the col- 
lector's private office on the second floor of the easterly side of the 
building, and was in Hawthorne's day, and for some years after, an 
unfurnished chamber filled with old papers deposited in boxes and 
barrels. The old records before the Revolution are missing. They 
were dispersed or perished in the great fire, Oct. 6, 1774, which con- 
sumed the building then used as a custom house. The port of Salem 
no longer preserves its separate identity and has its own collector. On 
July 1, 1913, it was merged with the port of Boston, with a deputy- 
collector. The Custom House is open to visitors from nine o'clock 
in the forenoon until three o'clock in the afternoon, except Saturdays, 
when it is closed at tAvelve o'clock. It is not open on holidays or 
Sundays. See chapter on Hawthorne, page 6o. 

In the old days, when the word Salem was the synofiyin for every- 
thing brilliant and heroic in a commercial way, the Custom House 
was a movable establishment, the office followed the collector from 
house to house wherever he might happen to reside, and if he chanced 
to be a bachelor and a victim of the boarding-house habit, a shipmas- 
ter setting out on a voyage could not conjecture where it would be 
found upon his return. This practice continued until this Custom 
House was finally provided in 1819. During all these years names 
now famous were added to the roll of collectors and surveyors. Wil- 
liam Fairfax was collector when he left Salem for Virginia to inherit 
a peerage and to found a family connected with the Washingtons. 
William Hathorne, the romancer's ancestor, was collecting a tonnage 
tax in gun powder in 1667. The names of Browne, Lynde, Bowditch, 
Veren, Palfray, Hiller and Lee grace the list, and James Cockle, 
upon whose petition for a warrant to search for smuggled molasses 
James Otis made his memorable plea against writs of assistance, was 
at the time collector of Salem. In the museum of the Essex Insti- 
tute may be seen a large wooden eagle, carved by Samuel Mclntire, 
that formerly decorated the entrance of the building at 6 Central 
street, when it was used as the custom house in 1805. 



^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

Hospital Highlaiid Ave. The Salem Hospital was founded in 
1873 by Capt John Bertram. The hospital at first was a large brick 
buildnig 31 Charter street; formerly a private residence, the birth- 
place of the ate Hon. Stephen H. Phillips, attorney-general of Mass- 
acnusetts and of Hawaii, The present structure was erected in 1916- 
1917 largely as a result of the great fire of 1914 which partly de- 
stroyed the extensive additions to the first building. Visitors are ad- 
mitted on any day from two to three o'clock in the afternoon 

On the Charter street estate lived Capt. Richard More, the boy of 
int62()'' '"^ ''''"'' """ ^^"^ "Mayflower" with the Pilgrims to Pl>iiiouth 

Jails. The first jail stood just westerly of the present First Church 
buildmg, and when the court and town house was constructed in 1676 
It was removed into what was then Benjamin Felton's garden, a few 
feet easterly from the present street car office and was finally taken 
away m 1684, when the new jail was built on what is now Federal 
street. 

Site of the Witchcraft Jail. At 2 Federal street, corner of 
St Peter was built m 1684, the jail in which the persons accused of 
VMtchcraft m 1692 were confined, and from which the condemned 
were taken to the place of execution. In 1763 that jail was succeed- 
ed by a new one, on the site of what is now 4 Federal street Upon 
the construction of the new jail, in 1813, this building was remodeled 
into a dwelling house, which is now the residence of the late Abner 
1.. Uoodell. It is said that some of the timbers of the jail of 169'^ 
were used in the construction of the jail of 1763, and therefore are 
now existing m the preseiit house. 

County Jail and House of Correction. The present jail a 
granite structure, is at the corner of St. Peter and Bridge streets The 
origmal part was erected in 1813, and the extension, toward St 
Peter street in 1884-5. It is one of the most substantial and best 
designed jails in the state. Visitors are admitted from 9 to 11 A M 

"' mIT.^ '\^ f- ^'•' '-^"'P' °^' Saturdays, Sundavs, and holidays: 

Market. A few steps along Essex street from Town House 

square bring the visitor to the open paved area on the right, known 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS.. SCHOOLS, HALLS., ETC. 127 

as the Market. This space extends from Essex to Front street, and 
at the time of the Revolution it Avas the homestead of Col. William 
Browne, having been in the familv for more than a century. Colo- 
nel Browne was a tory, holding the office of mandamus councillor, 
when, on Aug. 24, 1774, he entertained Governor Gage and his civil 
and military staif, while Timothy Pickering, summoned by the sheriff 
into their presence, kept His Excellency so long in an "indecent pas- 
sion," that the town-meeting, which the Governor had come to dis- 
perse, had transacted its business and adjourned without day. Troops 
had been ordered up from the Neck, Town House square was crow-d- 
ed with people, and bloodshed seemed imminent. Later, Colonel 
Browne's estate was confiscated, and in 1 784 it was conveyed by the 
State to Elias Hasket Derby, a successful merchant of the town. In 
1799 Mr. Derby removed the residence of Colonel Browne, and erect- 
dd upon its site, at a cost of eighty thousand dollars, the most sump- 
tuous mansion ever built in Salem.* It Avas occupied only a 
iew months, and not long after Mr. Derby's decease was closed and 
offered for sale. No purchaser appeared for so costly an establish- 
ment, and the heirs conveyed it to the town to be used for a public 
market forever. f The grounds were finely terraced and beautifully 
laid out, but when the estate came into the possession of the town the 
mansion house was taken down and the land devoted to the purpose 
for w^iich it had been given. The area was named Derby square, in 
honor of the former owner. A market house was erected at an ex- 
pense of about twelve thousand dollars. The market, located on the 
first floor, was opened Nov. 25, 1816, and ever since has been leased 
for meat and provision stalls. The second story was finished as a 
hall, and always has been known as the Town Hall. ToAvn meet- 
ings were held there until the incorporation of Salem as a city, in 
1836, and since that time it has been used for public gatherings. On 
Saturdays the carts of produce and provision dealers line the pave- 
ment in front of the Market house. 

* A picture of this house is in the second edition of Felt's Annals of Salem, 
and its plans, made by Mclntire, are in the possession of the Essex Institute. 

t A public fish market is now located at 25 Front street, opposite the Mar- 
ket, on a portion of the original estate. 



128 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




THE MARKET IlUUSi. AND MARKET SQUARE 



The Town Hall was first opened to the public, July 8, 1817, on 
the occasion of the visit of President Monroe, who came from Mar- 
blehead to Salem on that day. He was magnificently received at the 
new Town Hall in the evening. 

Police Station, 17 Central street, was erected in 1913, John M. 
Gray, architect. Here is the office of the city marshal. The district 
court room is on the second floor. 

The court consists of a justice, two special justices and a clerk. 
Criminal sessions are held daily at 9 A. M., and civil sessions on 
Wednesdays at 10 A. M. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS^ HALLS,, ETC. 129 

Post Office, 118 Washington street, occupies the first floor of 
the building which is leased by the Post Office department. The at- 
tention of the stranger will at once be attracted to this building 
(erected in 1883), by the colonial character of its architecture, which 
is also well carried out in its next-door neighbor, the Peabody build- 
ing. Over the main entrance to the Post Office is a fine reproduction 
of the United States coat of arms, and over the southern door on 
Washington street one of the city seal. The Post Office is open on 
week days from 6.45 A. M., till 10 P. M. 

Railroad Station (Boston and Maine R. R.). The railroad was 
built from Boston to Salem in 1838, and was extended to Ipswich 
the next year upon the completion of the tunnel. This tunnel passes 
under Washington street, beginning directly in front of the station, 
and is six hundred and fifty feet long. The site occupied by the 
station was formerly the central docks of the South river, and the 
tide now ebbs and flows through a conduit. The original building 
was a small wooden structure, on which was hung an old convent 
bell captured at the siege of Port Royal. In the earlier times, for a 
few minutes before the departure of each train, the bell was rung by 
a veteran of the War of 1812. The ticket office and waiting rooms 
were in an old red warehouse across the way. The present station 
was built from sketches made by Capt. D. A. Neal, an early president 
of the road, in the architectural style of a structure that attracted 
his attention in England. It has two high granite towers, and a 
wide granite-arched entrance, which suggest the medieval gates of 
the older cities of Europe. It was erected in 1847, and, with the 
exception of the front, was rebuilt in 1882, the wooden portion of 
the structure having been destroyed by fire on the night of April 6th 
of that year. 

Schools* Bentley School, 50 Essex street, a grammar and pri- 
mary school for girls, and was built of brick in 1861. The old East 
Church edifice stood between Hardy and Bentley streets, on Essex, 

* There are fourteen primary and grammar schools in the city and three 
larse parochial schools. See City Directory for detailed information. 



^^'^ visitor's guide to SALEM 



just opposite the schoolhouse, and the bell from that meetin- house 
fon^'/"TP.^^°^\^P?^ '^ states, was cast by "Revere & Sons, Boston.' 
b and nngs daily from tJie tower of the schoolhouse. The roost- 
er that lifts his head above it was from the same meethig house, and 
If tradition may be relied upon, still contains, sealed up in its capa- 
cious crop an old hymn book and some of Doctor Bentlev's sermons 
High School Upon a sightly location on Highland avenue is 
the new High School building, erected in 1909 at a cost of $356,068 - 
00. Messrs. Killam and Hopkins of Boston, were the architects It 
f ""TT"^^^^' °''^'' °"^ thousand pupils. There are thirty teachers 
At the head of Broad street are several large brick buildings The 
most western is the old High School building erected in 1856 and 
remodeled inl871. The building on the corner of Broad and Sum- 

""'i/cf '''/'''"'f^'' ^^'' ^^^^^ ^°^"^^^ School building, was built 
q"! 1 /' ^ P^^^^^hased by the city in 1897, having been used by the 
State for forty years for a Nonnal school. These buildings are now 
used for school administration purposes, for the manual training 
school and the evening schools. The middle brick building on Broad 
street IS the Oliver primary school, formerly the old Latin school It 
was built m 1818, and remodeled in 1869, 1878 and 1884 

• fif' ''''•^^i''T,J^?:''^- ^" ^^^^' ^ b"^k school-house was built 
m the middle of ^^ashmgton street, about opposite Church street It 
was removed inl 785. Before it stood the whipping post. A picture 
of It may be seen at the Essex Institute 

State Normal School. A State Normal school has been located 
m Salem since 1854. Until 1896 it occupied the brick building at 

n'i«Q?7«o ^■'"'^"^'l ^"^ ^'°"^ '''''''■ ^^' "^^ building erected 
m 1893-1890, is at the junction of Lafavette street and Lorina ave- 
nue. It covers a ground area of eleven thousand square feet Facing 
northward, it is one hundred and eightv feet in length from east to 
west, and nas two wings, each one hundred and forty feet from north 
to south It stands so high and is so large that it fairly dominates 
the southern section of the city. The architect was J. Philip Rinn 
ot Boston, and the cost was two hundred thousand dollars On Lor 
mg avenue is the Training School building, having kindergarten 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS, HALLS, ETC. 131 

primary and grammar grades and providing instruction for nearly 
five hundred pupils from among the children of the neighborhood. 
These training schools are public schools and under the control of the 
school committee of Salem In the second story is a hall 60 by 80 feet. 
The school is supplied with a fine scientific apparatus, including a 
telescope of fair power, and a library of four thousand volumes. Tu- 
ition is free to residents of the state who intend to become teachers in 
its public schools. In the various halls there are portraits, busts and 
statues, and among the mural decorations are reliefs from the Par- 
thenon frieze ; the frieze of the prophets, by John S. Sargent ; and 
other works of art. 

Town House. See Court Houses. 

HALLS AND THEATRES. 

Academy Hall, 157 Essex street, was built in 1885, and opened 
Feb. 12, 1886. It has a seating capacity of three hundred and fifty 
and is one of the finest lecture and concert rooms of its size in the 
state. It is the propertv of the Trustees of the Peabody Museum. 

Ames Memorial liall. 288 Essex street, in the Y. M. C. A. 
building, was erected in 1898. a memorial to George L. Ames, a 
benefactor of the association. It seats 800 persons, and is principally 
used for concerts and lectures. 

Empire Theatre, 285 Essex street, built 1906, seats nearly 1500. 
On this site formerly stood a house in which, Dec. 16, 1751, was born 
George Cabot, the distinguished Federalist and president of the Hart- 
ford Convention. This was also the site of Mechanic Hall, erected 
of brick in 1839, and destroyed by fire, Feb. 4, 1905. For a half cen- 
tury it was the principal hall in the city for theatricals, having a seat- 
ing capacity of about eleven hundred. In it, from time to time, oc- 
curred many of the most notable gatherings, political and social, in 
Salem. 

Federal Theatre. 24 Federal street, was built in 1912 and seats 
nearly 1 500 persons. 



132 visitor's guide to salem 

Franklin Building. This large brick block, on the corner of Es- 
sex street and Washington square, is owned by the Salem Marine So- 
ciety, the oldest charitable organization in the city. The society was 
formed in 1776, "to relieve such of their Members as through mis- 
fortune at Sea, or otherwise, or by Reason of Old Age or Sickness, 
stand in Need of Relief, & the necessitous Families of deceased Mem- 
bers ; and also to communicate in Writing, to be lodged with the So- 
ciety, the Observations thev make at Sea of any Matters which may 
render Navigation, particularly on this Coast, easier and safer." It 
came into possession of this estate about 1833, by the bequest of 
Capt. Thomas Perkins, a member of the society. The building was 
thrice damaged by fire, being totally destroyed in 1860, but imme- 
diately rebuilt. The lower story is used for business purposes. The 
Marine Society occupies the lower room on the corner of Washing- 
ton square, next to the Common, as an office and reading-room for 
its members, now numbering about fifty. There are portraits in the 
office, which is open week days, and in a large album an interesting 
collection of portraits of members of the society. 

Hamilton Hall. Across Chestnut street from the South church 
is Hamilton Hall, owned by the South Building Corporation. It 
was built in 1805 and named in honor of Alexander Hamilton, who 
bad visited Salem, where he had many of his warmest admirers. This 
hall has since been the center of Salem's social activity and in it have 
been held the assemblies and many notable anniversary dinners and 
celebrations. Pickering was entertained at an elegant dinner in this 
hall in 1808, Bainbridge in 1813, and Lafayette, Aug. 31, 1824. 

Now and Then Hall, 102 Essex street, connected with the club 
house of the Association, seats about 900 persons. 

The Salem Theatre, 2 59 5^ Essex street, was originally the 
brick meeting-house of the Barton Square, or Independent church, 
w^hich separated from the First church in 1824, and built this edi- 
fice the same year. The society, which is Unitarian in belief, united 
v/ith the Second or East church, and the building was transformed 
into the Salem Theatre, which was opened in 1901. Its seating 
capacity is about thirteen hundred. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, HALLS, ETC. 133 

Washington Hall was in the upper story of the Stearns build- 
ing, 101 Washington street, which was erected in 1792, on the site 
of the widow Pratt's tavern of many gables. It was opened Feb. 22, 
1793, the birthday of Washington which marked his second assump- 
tion of the presidency, with an elegant dinner, an oration by Bentley, 
and great rejoicings at the French Revolution then just announced. 
It was a curious survival of the antique assembly-room, with fire- 
places, wooden wainscoting, and music gallery.* This quaint hall 
was, for a number of years after it was opened, a popular place for 
parties and other gatherings, and later it became a theatre. It is now 
gone, and a new building has been erected upon the site. 

* The balcony rail of this music gallery is now preserved in the museum of 
the Essex Institute. 




NORTH CHURCH. 



SOUTH CHURCH, 

Burned in 1903. ST PETER'S CHURCH. 

SECOND CHURCH. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
Churches. 

Advent Christian Church, 127 North street, was erected in 1890, 
the society having been organized in 1875. 

Calvary Baptist Church, corner of Bridge and Lemon streets, 
is a wooden edifice, erected in 1904. The church was formed in 1870, 
and their house was formerly what is now the synagogue of the Sons 
of Jacob, corner of Essex and Herbert streets. 

Crombie Street Church ( Congregational ) , 7 Crombie street, is 
an offshoot from the once iiourishing Howard street, or Branch 
church. Rufus Choate was on its first board of trustees. The plain 
brick building was erected in 1828 for a theatre. As such, it had a 
short-lived success, and the building was dedicated to church pur- 
poses Nov. 22, 1832. In 1892, extensive repairs and alterations 
were made and several memorial windows added. 

First Baptist Church. 56 Federal street, was organized in 1804, 
and erected its meeting house in 1806, which was remodeled in 1868. 
The tower contains a clock and one of the largest bells in the city, 
which was cast in 1865. by H. N. Hooper of Boston. 

First Church, (Unitarian). The corner where the First church 
now stands was the site of the first meeting house in Salem and also 
of the several intervening meeting houses, the present being the 
fourth. 

Originally Trinitarian-Congregational, now Unitarian, the church 
was formed in the summer of 1629, being the first Congregational so- 
ciety organized in America. The meeting-house was built in 1635 or 
before and was enlarged in 1639, the original contract, in Governor 
Endecott's handwriting, for this enlargement, is a part of the town 

(135) 



136 visitor's guide to salem 

records and may be seen in the office of the city clerk, at City Hall. 
It bears the signatures of Governor Endecott, Roger Conant, Wil- 
liam Hathorne, John Woodbury and Lawrence Leach, and John 
Pickering the contractor. The second meeting-house was erected in 
1671, the third in 1718, and the fourth and present one in 1826. 
This was remodeled in 1875. Two marble slabs at the head of the 
stairs leading to the auditorium, which is on the second floor, give 
the historv of the church, the names of its pastors, and their terms of 
service. . The main entrance is on Essex street, and at its side a bronze 
tablet, placed bv the city on the outer wall, is inscribed as follows :• — 

Here stood from 1634 until 1673 The First Meeting House 

ERECTED IN SaLEM. No STRUCTURE WAS BUILT EARLIER FOR CON- 
GREGATIONAL WORSHIP BY A CHURCH FORMED IN AMERICA. It WAS 
OCCUPIED FOR SECULAR AS WELL AS RELIGIOUS USES. In IT PREACHED 

IN SUCCESSION^ I. Roger Williams; II. Hugh Peters; IIL Ed- 
ward NoRRis; IV. John Higginson. It avas enlarged in 1639 
and was last used for WORSHIP IN 1670. The First Church in 
Salem^ gathered July and August, 1629. has had no place ot 

WORSHIP BUT this SPOT. 

Previous to 1870 this society was using an organ inscribed in large 
letters on two plates upon its front, "John Avery. London. Fecit, 
1800." This was considered a fine organ. The one now in use was 
built by Hutchings, Plaisted & Co., in 1875. The society possesses 
many interesting relics, including the original earlv records and sev- 
eral pieces of old silver used in the communion service, but unfor- 
tunatelv several of the oldest and most interesting were melted down 
in 1815 and made into a basin. Among those now preserved are five 
cups, the gift of William Browne, about 1700, a cup from Sarah 
Higginson in 1720, one from Mary Walcott in 1729. and a flagon 
from Samuel Browne in 1731. 

First Church of Christ Scientist, 16 Lynde street. This society 
was organized in 1896 and dedicated in 1911 its present building 
which originally was the parish house of the First Church. Salem. 



CHURCHES 137 

Friends Meeting-House, corner of South Pine and Warren 
streets, built of brick in 1832, was destroyed in the great fire of 1914 
and rebuilt in 1916. 

Between the sites of the houses numbered 375 and 377 Essex 
street stood the first meeting-house of the Salem Society of Friends. 
They held services in Salem as early as 1657, but thir meeting-house 
was not erected until 1688. It was built by the famous Quaker, 
Thomas Maule, upon his own land. He deeded the building and 
land to the Friends in 1690, and, in 1718, when they erected a new 
meeting-house, they reconveyed the old house and land to him. It 
then became a part of a dwelling-house. The original frame is now 
preserved by the Essex Institute in the rear of its Museum Building. 
The second meeting-house of this societv was built in 1718 where the 
Friend's cemetery may now be found, at 396 V^ Essex street. 

Grace Church (Episcopal). 381 Essex street, was organized in 
1858. Its present modest church edifice was built in the same year, 
and consecrated by Bishop Manton Eastburn. The church was en- 
larged in 1889. It contains a beautiful pulpit of carved oak, a fine 
example of church architecture, which bears on a silver plate the fol- 
lowing inscription : "Presented to Grace Church in memory of John 
Bertram, by his daughters, J. M. E. and A. B. W., December, 1883." 
The oak for this pulpit was brought from the Isle of Jersey, the 
birthplace of Captain Bertram. Directlv over the alter is a fine 
stained-glass window, placed there, in 1892, by the contributions of 
devoted friends, in memory of Mrs. James P. Franks, the widely es- 
teemed wife of the rector. Tiie window was designed by Henry 
Holiday, R. A., of London, and its beauty gains an additional inter- 
est from the fact that it was selected by the late Bishop Phillips 
Brooks while visiting London. There is, also, a beautiful marble tab- 
let to the memory of Dr. John Francis Tuckerman, for many years 
a vestryman of this church, and director of its music. The organ was 
built by the Hook-Hastings Company. The present rector. Rev. 
James P. Franks, has filled the office since 1870. 

Howard Street or Branch Church, formerly located where the 
Prescott schoolhouse now stands. This societv was organized Dec. 



138 

visitor's guide to SALEM 



rence and Lieutenant T nr^i^ fl? A, ^^i^^ams of Captain Law- 
the engaged w re broilt^t "^ y^'^'^^r^'^^ -ho were killed in 
PhilHp"s)%vha f and thence t.lP . T' ^'f ^'''^'^ ^' India (now 
• was held wit^'reTt poniD and T% f '.'^' ^^'''' *^ ^"^^^^^^ 
becam, famous': T^oX"! in 's.l"'^^ ^ " '"^''^^^ ^^^^ 

their houses, so hioh ran artt Li u ^""'^ ""^^'^ ^^^ ^^e of 

B, Cheever/after^tro?^^^^^^^^ aifd'charTe's Tt'^' ^^T 

their freedon to h s effors and Re"' 1 T'l ^'""^'^^ ^^^^^^^ °-^^ 
John G. Whittier^f Sr^^^S^-;^ ::'^X:^^ -^ 

The communion plate of the church wn. .nVi I !i memory. 

vided among the remaining nie'res a' d J- ^^^^^^^ ^'°?''^' ^" 
tower of what is now ^f Tni., . tJ ' ^ "^^^ removed to the 

where it is I i^u e •7•K^y'^^^'"P^^■^^^hurch (St. Peter street), 

meeting house was; n 186^ r^tX^VV T"^""^' ^^'' '^ 
remodeled and used bv the Methodises ^"'"'^' "^"^^ '' '''' ^^^^^ 
War^?::^^. ^S'^°-, Church ^^ (Roman Catholic), 

itecture. It was erected in V 7 /'V' ^'!''^''''^^^ ^tyle of arch- 
and a tower added in IS. Oh -^ '^''^''"'''^ "^ ^^^8' ^^d remodeled 
seating capacit;'of'thT;tef;J^"^^^ /t ^as a 

m the city, weighing three thousa. I't ril^dJed and fift " '"''T 
the tone s in the Icev of P Tf "-"u JJunarea and fifty pounds; 

of Boston, and :i^L se^l J^^' ^^ ""'j^^ ^'^^^, Bdl Poundrv, 
late Conception Parish to the S.c el H ' t '"''''^i'^' ^""^^^cu- 
Mary's." The or-^in in th. \ f .''^' ^"^^ named "St. 

Boston. ^ "' '^'' '^'''''^' '''' '^"ilt by W. H. Ryder of 

Roman Catholic services were hplrl i,i QoI 
> ^90, b. Rev. .T„„„ T„a,e.. Z TC '^^^Z^'l^l ^ ^^^^^^ 



CHURCHES 139 

was built at the eastern corner of Mall and Bridge streets in 1821. 
For twenty-five years this was the only Roman Catholic church in 
Essex County, and the mother parish of all this region. This build- 
ing was occupied until 1857, and in 1877, being considered unsafe, 
it was taken down and the lot sold. 

Lafayette Street Methodist Episcopal Church, 296 Lafayette 
street. This society was organized in 1840 and formerly occupied a 
wooden ediiice at the corner of Lafayette and Harbor streets which 
was destroyed during the great fire. The present attractive stone 
edifice with the parsonage attached Avas dedicated March 5, 1911. 

North Church (Unitarian) was formed by a separation from the 
•First Church in 1772, their first meeting house being built that 5'ear 
on the southern corner of Lynde and North streets. The present 
beautiful granite edifice, at 314J'2 Essex street, retired behind lofty 
elms and clad in summer with its drapery of woodbine, was built 
in 1835, G. J. F. Bryant being the architect. Some interior orna- 
mentation was added in 1848. It is after the style of an old Eng- 
lish parish church, and the excellent gothic interior finish and high- 
backed pews are well in keeping. The church was built largely 
under the supervision of the late Francis Peabody, whose love of the 
beautiful in architecture has left a good influence in Salem in many 
ways. On the walls are tablets to the memory of Thomas Barnard, 
John Emery Abbot. John Brazer, and Edmund B. Willson, minis- 
ters of the church, and Judge Lincoln F. Brigham, and, in the 
minister's room, a memorial gift of Edward H. Payson, is another 
tablet inscribed to the memory of the donor's wife. A stained glass 
window, by John LaFarge of New York, was placed in the church 
in 1892. It is inscribed: "In memory of Francis and Martha Pea- 
body: By their children." and shows full-length figures of Faith 
and Charity. Another window was added in 1894, the work of the 
Tififanys of New York, consecrated to the memory of Martha But- 
trick Willson, the wife of the late pastor. The organ, built by Hook 
and Hastings, is an exceedingly fine instrument, and the society has 
many interesting cups and vessels used in the communion service, 
which date from the organization of the church, two of them being 
from the hand of Paul Revere. 



140 VISIT0R''S GUIDE TO SALEM 

The North church was set off from the First church in 1772, and 
its first meeting-house was b;iilt in that year on the southern corner 
of North and Lynde streets. This was superseded by the present 
edifice of the society on Essex street, in 1835. For twenty-five years 
it was used for manufacturing purposes. The house now standing 
on the spot was once the residence of Justice Otis P. Lord of the 
supreme judicial court. 

St. James Church (Roman Catholic). The wooden structure, 
160 Federal street, built ^in 1849 to accommodate the increasing 
congregations which overcrowded St. Mary's church, was occupied 
until 1893, when it was succeeded by the present conspicuous brick 
edifice, 152 Federal street, which was rebuilt in 1900, and has di 
seating capacity of 1300. This structure is 178 feet long and the 
tower is 200 feet in height. Nine large paintings adorn the walls. The 
organ, the largest and most powerful in the county, was built by R. 
Midmar & Son of Brooklyn, N. Y. 

St. Joseph's Church (French Catholic), 181 Lafayette street, 
was organized in 1873. Its first church, erected in 1884, and dedi- 
cated Aug. 25, 1885, was of Avood, and seated one thousand persons. 
The large organ, built in 1870 by J. H. Wilcox & Co., was origi- 
nally in Mechanic Hall. A large new edifice of brick, with two im- 
posing towers, was dedicated Sept. 7, 1913, and destroyed during 
the great fire. Its walls were partly taken down and in remodelled 
form it is now used for church purposes. It also acconmiodates th€ 
parochial school. 

St. John the Baptist Church (Polish Catholic), St. Peter, 
opposite Federal street. This originally was the church of the 
Second Baptist Society, having separated from the First Baptist So- 
ciety in 1825, and built the present meeting house the next year. The 
building was raised and remodeled in 1877. In the tower is the bell 
formerly on the Howard street church. In 1903, this Polish Catho- 
lic society was organized and on the consolidation of the Second 
Baptist Society with the First Baptist in 1909, purchased the preseni 
edifice the following j^ear. 



CHURCHES 141 

St. Peter's Church (Episcopal). The present English gothic 
church of stone, occupied by this ancient Episcopal society, at the 
corner of Brown and St. Peter streets, was built in 1833, on land 
given by Philip English, a wealthy merchant of his time, for the site 
of the first church erected by the society in 1733. During the war 
of the Revolution public feeling against everything British ran so 
high that a law was enacted by the State Legislature forbidding the 
reading of the Episcopal service, under penalty of £100 and one 
year's imprisonment, and religious services were consequently sus- 
pended, while the property of the society suffered from lawless vio- 
lence. But calmer times followed and this society now enjoys its 
share of prosperity. The old bell, familiar to the ears of Salemites 
for a century and a half, still hangs in St. Peter's tower. It was 
c^st by Abel Rudhall, at Gloucester, England, and was first rung in 
1740, and is, therefore, the oldest church bell in the city. The ini- 
tials of the maker, "A. R." surmounted by a crown upon the bell, 
have been supposed by many persons to mean "Anna Regina," and 
hence the story that Queen Anne gave this bell to the society. In 
1885, a chime of ten bells was placed in St. Peter's tower, and these 
are rung on Sundays and days of service during the week. In the 
old edifice was the first organ ever placed in a Salem church, and 
this was imported from England by John Clark in 1743. A second 
organ followed in 1770, which was e^•changed in 1819 for one im- 
ported from England by Dr. B. L. Oliver, who had it in his private 
residence, and who almost neglected his profession, so fond was he 
of playing upon this instrument. The tablets containing the Apos- 
tles' Creed, Lord's Prayer and Ten Commandments, which were 
painted by John Gibbs of Boston, in 1738, for the old church, are 
still preserved, as well as the large folio volume of Common Prayer 
given the church in 1744 by the Rt. Hon. Sir Arthur Onslow, then 
Speaker of the House of Commons of Great Britain. There were 
several memorial plates and cups used by the church, dated 1757, 
1771, and 1785; but, as was the case at the First church, the incon- 
oclast, in the year of grace 1817, siezed upon many of these inter- 
esting relics of the past and sent them to the melting pot to be 



147 , 

^^ VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 

moulded into the fashion of the day, to the sincere regret of subse- 
quent oiKcers of the society.. In the church and chapel^are tablets to 
the memory of early members of the Episcopal church m Salem in- 
cluding John and Samuel Browne, members of the Massachusetts 
Bay Company n. 1628, and of the first council, Philip EnglTsh Toh" 
Touzel, and John and Mary Bertram, the parents^of Capt ' Tohr 
Bertram a name associated with nearly every charitable orgaiiLa 
ion m the r.ty. Among the tablets to the meniory of deceasfj en- 
ters of the c:hurch,, that to Rev. James Oliver Scripture has an ex 
ce lent medallion likeness of him moulded by Miss^ Louisa Lander" 
the well-known sculptress, long a member of the parish In the 
churchyard at the right of the entrance to the chur^ch, is a carv d 

Pu Esc I'atV"''"'''^ T"^ '''' ^"^^^^ ^' body 'of Jonathan 
Pue Esq., Late surveyor and searcher of his Majesties' customs in 
Salem, ^ew England," who died in 1760, at the age of s Ty-s x 
years. Hawthorne has made him famous by weaving'' hi.rname^in to 
the introduction to "The Scarlet Letter " 

inTxf. ^.^""''r' *^^/^^^Church (Unitarian), was organized m 
1/18 by a reparation from the First Church, the present edifice of 
freestone bemg built m 1846. Richard Up ohn, fts archil twa 
born m England m 1802, and came to America in 1829. He buila 
cathedral at Bangor, Maine, and Trinity, St. I'homas and Grace 
churches m New York City. The old wooden mee^ng-house pre 
v.ously occupied by the society on Essex, between Bentl y and Ha'd" 
•streets was made famous by Dr. William Bentlev, the historTan 

S: rVTT9 a'nd "h' 1^-^' T ^r^''^' '""''^ ^-- 1783 untnS 
r06 E ex s rp'et Th ^ T *' ^"^'^ '''^^ ''^''^^''S, numbered 

r 1 :. , ^ graceful spire of the old meeting house from 

which pealed out the welcome news of peace after our two war's with 
England, was removed by Capt. Robert Brookhouse to the t^;,unds 
•of his Swampscott villa, and stood there for vears as a landn^.rk^n 
aicatmg the spot selected by Hugh Peter foV the La^n o" H r-" 
vard College. The bell still sounds from the cupola of the Bentky 
schoolhouse The society possesses manv interesting communion 
■cups and other gifts of its early members. "The gothic decorTtTons o 



CHURCHES 143 

[he present edifice make the interior one of the finest in the city. With 
this society is united the Independent Society formerly at Barton 
Square. The meeting-house of the latter has been transformed into 
a theatre. 

Sons of Jacob Synagogue, on the western corner of Essex and 
Herbert streets, was formerly the meeting house of the Calvary Bap- 
list church, and was sold bv the society in 1903 to the Sons of Jacob 
for a synagogue. The buildi'ig was erected in 1873. 

South Church (Congregational) is situated on the northeastern 
corner of Cambridge and Chestnut streets and was built in 1907. 
The society separated, under the lead of Colonel Timothy Pickering, 
from the Third, or Tabernacle Church, in 1774, and occupied an 
assembly hall on Cambridge street, on the site of the present vestry 
of the society, until its large wooden edifice was built in 1804 which 
was designed by Samuel INIcIntire and considered one of the best 
works of that noted architect. It was destroyed by fire in 1903. In 
the assembly house formerly on this site were held the elegant assem- 
blies and large social gatherings before the Revolution, — -the famous 
ball given by Governor Bernard's son in 1768, and official receptions 
tendered to Governor Hutchinson on his last military review in 
Massachusetts, and to Governor Gage on the last King's birthday 
celebrated in Massachusetts. 

Tabernacle Church (Congregational) corner of Washington 
and Federal streets, was separated from the First church in 1735. 
Its first meeting-house stood at what is now 242 Essex street, and 
was destroyed in the great fire of Oct. 6, 1774. In 1785, the so- 
ciety erected a meeting-house on the present site. That was suc- 
ceeded, in 1854, by the present wooden edifice, which seats about 
eleven hundred persons. Its spire, one hundred and eighty feet in 
height, was cut down in 1912 to its present proportions. Its fine 
organ was built by Woodberry & Harris. Salem was the first Amer- 
ican port from which missionaries sailed for Calcutta. On Feb. 6, 
1812, the five missionaries who had the honor of that priority were 
consecrated to the work in the meeting house which then stood on 
this site. In the parlor of the present edifice is preserved a settee. 



144 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

with a plate upon which is inscribed : "Upon this seat Rev. Messrs. 
Newell, Judson, Nott, Hall and Rice sat in the Tabernacle Church, 
Salem, on Feb. 6, 1812, when ordained to the work of the Gospel 
Ministry as missionaries to the Heathen in Asia." Portraits of all 
the pastors of the church are in the parlors, also the study chair of 
Rev. Samuel Worcester, a long-time pastor of the church. The 
church also owns some old and interesting pieces of plate, 

Universalist Church. The brick meeting-house of this society 
stands at the foot of Rust street, which leads from Federal street. 
The church was gathered in 1805, services having been held in va- 
rious places in town as early as 1804. This building was erected in 
1808, and it has been remodelled several times, last in 1878, when 
a wooden addition was made to the tower. A large and convenient 
chapel connected with the church, and fronting on Ash street, -was 
built in 1889. A new Hutchings organ was added in October, 1888. 

Wesley Methodist Episcopal Church, 10 North street, is a 
large brick edifice with stone trimmings and in style of construction 
quite different from any other church building in the city. By means 
of sliding doors, the seating capacitv can be much increased by con- 
necting the Sunday-school rooms, which are at the street end of 
the building, with the large audience room. The windows of the 
church being of stained glass present a most attractive appearance in 
the evening when services are being held, the brightly lighted interior 
illuminating the large gqthic Avindow on North street. The church 
has been the recipient of a fine organ, a memorial gift from a mem- 
ber of the society, the builders being Woodberrv & Harris. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Societies, Clubs, etc. 

Associated Charities, having its headquarters at 252 Essex street, 
was incorporated in 1901, after existing as an association for several 
years. It was formed for the purpose of "giving relief to the wor- 
thy poor, to prevent begging and imposture, and to diminish pauper- 
ism." While it is entirely independent of the other charitable soci- 
eties of Salem, it works in harmony and co-operation with all. A 
"Fresh Air Fund," conducted by this organization, enables elderly 
or over-worked women, and sickly children, to obtain rest and relief. 
The registrar is at the office on week days from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. 

Association for the Relief of Aged and Destitute Women 
was incorporated April 4, 1860. It occupies a brick mansion-house, 
180 Derby street, where thirty-two inmates are at present (1916) 
provided with all the comforts of a home. Through the kindness of 
many clergymen, Sunday afternoon services are held in the parlor 
during the winter months. The house was built and occupied by 
Benjamin W. Crowninshield, a representative in Congress and sec- 
retary of the navy under Madison and Monroe. It was given for its 
present use by Robert Brookhouse, a successful merchant in the Afri- 
can trade. When President Monroe made his tour of the North in 
1817, he arrived at Salem from Marblehead, July 8, and took poses - 
sion of this house, which had been vacated and made ready for his 
reception, and here he sojourned until his departure for the East 
four days later. On the ninth of July, a great dinner was given in 
the southeastern room, at which were present Commodores Perry and 
Bainbridge, Generals Miller and Dearborn, Senator Silsbee, Lieu- 

(145) 



146 , 

VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



"^^^iT^^^S^^^^^y -^ other eminent .en. 
of the port bet^'en s" and 184^ fT'' "^'^' ^^ "^^ ^^"^^tor 
hero o/Lundy Lane! tl^ fru's^L^r 'TiIT; ^i^^f^' ^^ 

built at a^o^of l^o/ooaoo aT.^Lt^-f f, f//^-^^° ^^- ^--e was 

were made. The Home Avas pI^.m , , extensive alterations 

Michael Carlton ckv ml on. 1 "^ "' *' suggestion of Rev. 

donations. It may^^ v ? ed "^n 'w^'/'^'Pf'^'''^ ""^ *^^^ "^^^^^ of 
o'clock P. M, ^ "^ °'' ^^ednesdays, between 2 and 5 

Bertram Home for Affed Men \m r\ ^ 

in 1877, by Capt. John Bertram Tl. i^^ ''''u' ^^' ^°""<^^^d 
Joseph Waters in 1806 7 and i well '^ 7"' ^^^^' ^°^ Capt. 

the museum of the Essex InsTitute •^'''^'" "' *^ ^^^^ °f 

_ Fraternity, ll Central street, was organized in 1860 T.= i -.a 
mg, erected in 1811 for the Essev Rant / ■ ?' ^^^ '^^'^^- 

Bulfinch, who planned t^ieLV Capitol aV w'\T'^ ^^ ^^^^^^^^ 
House at Boston. On renovating b. ^^^^^"gton and the State 
1899, after the remova oTt^e Fkst N.r°°'''i%°" ,*' ^°^"^^ ^^^^ ^^ 
pied the building s nee 1819 a ^a K . i "'^ ^'?^ ^^"^^^ ^^^^ o^^"" 
moving which a^eautifu'/s^u cl'tt^'p^fcrin th?:"^'' T^^V^^" 

or home inlluenL Th^ ^^^l^: SZ^iT^X^i:^^^^ 



SOCIETIKS, CLUBS^ ETC. 147 

books and newspapers in abundance. Music and games add to the 
attractions of the place. Free instruction is given by competent 
volunteer teachers to all who desire to study, and the rooms are fre- 
quented by large numbers. The organization also conducts a small 
gymnasium, industrial classes, and a summer camp at Rowley. 

Early in the last century, the Custom House occupied rooms in a 
building on this site. 

Grand Army Hall. The hall of Phil H. Sheridan Post, No. 34, 
G. A. R. (organized Dec. 10, 1867), is at 17 St. Peter street. Gen- 
eral Sheridan paid a long-promised visit to Salem, Feb. 2, 1888. He 
was received by the municipal authorities and the Post at City Hall, 
and presented a signed likeness of himself to the Post, which had 
always borne his name. 

During the war of 1861-5, more than three thousand men entered 
the Union service from this city, and more than two hundred were 
killed. Among our heroes were Brig. -Gen. Frederick W. Lander, 
Lt.-Col. Henry Alerritt, Lt.-Col. John Hodges, Major Seth S. Bux- 
ton, Captains George W. Batchelder, Charles A. Dearborn, John 
Saunders, Lieutenants Charles G. Ward, Pickering D. Allen, George 
C. Bancroft, and Charles F. Williams, all of whom lost their lives 
in the service of their country. 

Kernwood Country Club, off Kernwood street, a country clul) 
organized in 1914, occupies the beautiful estate of the late S. Ende- 
cott Peal)ody. The house was built in 1840 by Francis Peabody. 

Knights of Columbus, 94 Washington square. East, organized in 
1893, occupy as their club house, the former residence of IJ. S. Sen- 
ator Nathaniel Silsbee. President Monroe, Henry Clay, Daniel Web- 
ster, and other eminent men have been entertained here. 

Mack Industrial School, 17 Pickman street, a school for girls, 
was founded in 1897 and is supported by funds bequeathed by Esther 
Mack. Instruction is given in needle work, dressmaking, cooking, etc. 

Masonic Temple, corner Washington street and Lynde street, 
was erected in 1915-16 at a cost of $250,000.00. It occupies the site 
of the Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse estate. See chapter on Historic 
Buildings, page 158. 



^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

ciaf rd^l'^tfin"'' ^^^°^i.^ti<:>"'36 Washington square, South, a so- 
is1/.n?^ '^ organization for young men, was organized in 

snip (1916) of 735, and holds property valued at $40,000, nothing 
r''Now"aL Tl ''T^i^'J '^^^^^^- C«^--t^d with its club hous? 
persons ^'"''"'''' ^^^ ^^^^'^ ^^^^^t) seating 900 

Salem Golf Club, Margin street, Peabody, was organized in 1895 
Its grounds (60 acres) are finely located along the Danvers river' 
There is a 9-hole course about 3100 yards in length 

Tsl^nnT"'-^^'"' ^'^°°^- ^^^^^"g °^^^ the°causeway to Winter 
on'ie Mt oTlr ?•"'' ^"^' ;V^^^ French-roofed wooden buildin" 
on the left of the driveway. This is the Pluramer Farm School a 

vtT.T'' r'T'''' '^^ ""'y'- '' -^^ --l°-^d by Miss CaJoline 
P ummer, whose bequests also built Plummer Hall and founded the 
P ummer Professorship of Morals at Harvard University Te 
original bequest was $26,196.68, and the fund had increased from 

$ 000 to th'' '°1 ^'^'^^- ^^P^- J°^^^^ ^-^-- made a bequest o" 
$35 000 o the school. The institution was incorporated in 1855 and 

rcomnodaf.r"lf "^' ''''T r''^' "^ ''''■ thirty boys are 
accommodated. There is a school, and carpentry, chair-seating, and 
o her industries are .taught. Visitors are admitted on Wedif sday 
afternoons from three until six o'clock ^unebuay 

Salem Charitable Mechanic Association, organized in 1817 
has rooms at 246^ Essex street, which are open on Saturday evem 
mgs. It has a library of nearly 4000 volumes for the use of its mem- 

isffh'^T?"^^^ Washington square, occupies a house built in 
1818 by John Forrester, and later enlarged and occupied for many 
years as the town residence of the late George Peabodv Ii^t 
garc^n, best seen from Mall street, is the largest tulip t'ree in th]S 

Seaman's Orphan and Children's Friend Society 7 r-,r 
penter street, was originally known as "The Children's Friend So- 
ciety, and was initiated by Rev. Michael Carlton, a most benevo 



SOCIETIES, CLUBS, ETC. 149 

lent man and minister at large, whose name is connected with the 
early efforts of charitable organizations in Salem to assist orphan 
children. After taking children to his own home, where they were 
cared for by Mrs. Carlton and himself, assistance was received from 
friends, and rooms were occupied in the old building, 53 Charter 
street, near his residence, known as the "Dr. Grimshawe House." 
The society was organized in 1839, and later occupied a house ad- 
joining the present home. This was erected in 1877. The first build- 
ing was the gift of Robert Erookhouse, and it was fitted up by va- 
rious donations and bequests. A building in the rear is used as a 
hospital. 

Veteran Fireman's Hose House, 128 Derby street, contains a 
hand engine of the old-fashioned type, which is sometimes used in an 
emergency, and often in friendly rivalry, and a museum of axes, 
fire buckets, and ancient appliances.* 

Woman's Friend Society, 12 Elm street, was organized in 1876, 
and incorporated in 1884. A reading room for girls was first es- 
tablished in the Maynes Block, and later a home for girls at the cor- 
ner of Essex and Daniels streets. An employment bureau was also 
established about the same time. Capt. John Bertram gave the north- 
ern portion of this large brick house to the society in 1879, and in 
1889, through the generousity of friends, the southern part was pur- 
chased. The society now conducts a home for girls, who are fur- 
nished good rooms and board at a reasonable price ; an intelligence 
oitice ; and a mission distributing delicacies and flowers to the sick 
every Thursday. The institution depends for its support upon the 
contributions of the charitable. 

By means of special funds, the society also supports a trained 
nurse, known as the "visiting nurse," whose duty it is to make daily 
visits of about an hour each to poor persons who may be sick in their 

* The first recorded effort at public protection against fire seems to have 
been made in 1644 at Salem. Each householder was to supply himself with 
a ladder, under penalty of five shillings. In 1679, Salem purchased hooks and 
other implements, with two or three dozen cedar buckets, and gave the 
selectmen and two other fire-wards the right to command at a fire and to 
blow up and pull down buildings. The Poptilar Science Monthly for August, 
1S95, finds no earlier dates than these in the evolution of a fire department. 



^^0 visitor's guide to SALEM 

homes to make them comfortable, and to instruct those who may 
have charge of them as to proper care and food. Any unoccupied 
time of the nurse is given to persons requiring temporary aid who 
can pay for such services. Money thus received is devoted to the 
turtlier assistance of the poor patients. A "loan closet," with the 
usual hospital supplies, including bed clothing, etc.. is provided in 
connection with this charity. " ' 

io^i°o"c^^,^^"'^ Catholic Temperance Society, organized Oct. 

ly. 185 7, has its headquarters at 10 Boston street. 

Young Men's Christian Association, 288 Essex street This 
new and costly building of light brick and freestone, the home of the 
balem Y. M. C. A., was built in 1898. Its auditorium is named 
Ames hall, m honor of George L. Ames, a benefactor of the Asso- 
ciation. There are bowling alleys, a fine swimming tank and a well 
equipped gymnasium. Newspapers, periodicals and books are gen- 
erously provided. There is also a "boy's branch," started in 1869 
which IS the oldest one in the world. The Salem Association was es- 
tablished m 1858, and from 1884 to 1898, was located at 2QVo Cen- 
tral street. ^ 



CHAPTER X. 

Historic Buildings, Sites, Monuments, etc. 

Andrew House, 13 Washington Square, West, on the corner of 
Brown street. This house, erected by John Andrew in 1818, was a 
favorite visiting place of Gov. John A. Andrew in his youth. John 
Andrew was the Governor's uncle. It was spoken of at the time of 
its completion as the most costly private residence in New England, 
and is a fine specimen of the architecture of the early portion of the 
last century. 

Assembly Hall, 138 Federal street, was built in 1782, and from 
that date until 1795 was a famous Assembly House. Here Lafayette 
was entertained Oct. 29, 1784, and Washington, Oct. 29, 1789, and 
oratorios, concerts, balls and dances were of frequent occurence. It 
has been a private dwelling house since that time, and Judge Samuel 
Putnam was among those who lived there. 

Bakery, Old., sec House of the Seven Gables. 

Beadle's Tavern, Site of, 65 Essex street. This inn kept by 
Thomas Beadle was flourishing in the witchcraft times. 

Bishop House, Site of. Edward Bishop and his wife, Bridget, 
lived in a house that stood, in 1692,- on the southern corner of 
Church and Washington streets. It was here that the "puppets" 
were said to have been found. 

Boardman House, 82 Washington Square, East, which, with 
slight modern additions, still preserves its original appearance, at- 
tracted the attention of Washington when visiting Salem in 1789, 
by the beauty of its architectural proportions. It was then new, and 
had been offered for his use. 

(151) 



^^^ VISlTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

Cabot House 365 Essex street. This old-time mansion was 

Ho:^ ^WiFli. r ' "' '■'t'^^'' ''' *^^^y y^-^ -- the residenc 
ot Hon William Crownmshield Endicott, Justice of the SunreniP 

JutrEiScot; T ''V' 1 '^'' ^^"^- President'cfevS 
man^ atso Rt V ' f'^'r^^' "^ 1890, Gen. William T. Sher- 
man, also Rt. Hon. Joseph Chamberlain of England, his son-in- 

Cook-Ohver House, 142 Federal street. This house where 
r2 ^"? f'".'^^ ^'''^'^ ^^^^"^^' ^-^d and died, was bud by 
nSon"^DS/'*""'"^'"' "^"'^ ^^^^ demolition'of the D rb^ 
fi?Mr 'n L fi y T'r' '^^' '" P''^^^^^^' ^"d ^^^h of the beauti! 
ful Mclntire finish of that costly structure was built into this house 
constituting some of the best specimens of Mclntire's work now ex-' 

nr ^T'lln^^'f'^'^ ^^^'^- ^^^^^ B^^ket Street is Crowninshield's 
or India Wharf, now owned by the Wilkesbarre Coal Compay where 
the bodies of Captain Lawrence and Lieutenant Ludlow of the Ckis' 

s^:ZlnT2\'Zf:' ^f i^°" ^-^^f- their funeral p'roce^si^n 
started Aug. 23, 1813. The disastrous battle between the C/iesa/>eake 
and the Shannon^ on June 1, 1813, was fought so near the shore tS 
It was witnessed from the higher hills of Salem 

Jissex Bridge, which connects Salem and Beverly, is at the east 
ern end of Bridge street. It was built in 1788, and^egard d in 
day as a triumph of engineering skill. It was praised by Bnssot de 

.^a "ce t'o^?: riT^ '' -n'"^ '^^'' ^°"P^^^^^' ^^ who' et'rned ^o 
xiance to die by the guillotme m 1793; and also by Washinaton 

who crossed It m 1789. By the draw, which was lifted by n an Sow' 

?n h^' rrv ^^^ThT^T^irrT.^ '^^. ''i'^^'^ ^^^^^^^^^ b7HawtlC; 
L^ne. 17; 62 Toll-Gatherer's Day." See chapter on Ha^. 

The piers of the bridge have long been a favorite place for col- 



HISTORIC BUILDINGS, SITES^ MONUMENTS^ ETC. 153 

lecting the invertebrates living in salt water. Here, at exceptionally 
low tides, there is a good opportunity for collecting and studying the 
curious sea-anemones, star-fishes, sea-urchins, hydroids, sponges, and 
many small moUusks. 

To the left of the bridge, at the edge of the water, is the trap dike 
made famous by Hitchcock in his report on the Geology of Massa- 
chusetts, in 1841. Within the area of a square rod eleven different 
eruptions of granite and trap rock may be found. 

Essex House. The site of the Essex House, 1761/2 Essex street, 
was the home of Peter Palfry, one of the Old Planters, before 1651. 
It was afterward the homestead of Hon. William Browne, one of the 
council of Sir Edmond Andros, and in this fine house William Good- 
hue conducted a tavern for many years at the close of the Revolution. 
He subsequently leased the house to Samuel Robinson and Capt. 
Benjamin Webb successively for the same purpose. The latter was 
an innkeeper there in 1793, conducting the most noted tavern in 
Salem. It was then known as the Sun tavern. Captain Webb con- 
tinued the business until the estate was sold to William Gray, Jr., 
of Salem, the celebrated merchant "Billy Gray," who took the old 
house down. He was born in Lynn in 1761, and came to Salem at 
an early age, becoming one of the greatest merchants and ship-own- 
ers in the country. His counting-room, primitive in the extreme, 
was interesting in comparison with the offices of merchants of the 
present day, and the very limited draft of water at his wharves 
w^ould stagger the modern navigator. It was in the warehouse, num- 
bered 311 Derby street, destroyed in the great fire of 1914, that he 
conned his ledgers. He was lieutenant-governor of Massachusetts 
in 1810-11, and died in Boston in 1825. At the close of the Revolu- 
tion in 1783, when several "absentee" estates were in the market, 
William Gray bought at public vendue the property on Essex street 
where the Bowker Block now stands, confiscated on account of the 
course taken by Col. William Browne. It was a large and stately 
mansion standing eighteen feet back from the street. Here Mr. 
Gray lived until he bought the Sun tavern, and on its site erected 
the magnificent mansion house to which he removed about 1800, and, 



154 

VrSlTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 



was saved the r'oueh clt L "f T^'^^" ^^ ^665 from whicl- 
Institute, and n^uf i^L? beTh r'""." *'^-' "^"^^^^ ^^ ti- 
the Seven Gables," b Le n ISOS 'th 7'^'"^^ ^" '^'' "House of 
t^intil 1828, when the buTldina I ^^^" ^'^^^ ^^'^^^^ continued 

preserved by the Danvers Historical societt T^^ ^ 'T' '' "°^' 

a long time among some of th. -!i i 1' '''''' "^^"^ ^"0^" for 

House. When Lafl^Te^ ep 'tL 'i^TstrifT ^'^ ^"^5 ^^^^^ 

oIdfirepla:e'ar:;;::,el^r^^^^^^^^^^ A fi.L 

resentmg scenes in the French Revolmio; ^ ^TT^^ P^P"^'' "^P" 
parlor. I„ 1896 the propTrtv walbu 7' TT"^ '^'' '"^"^ °^ ^^e 
the hotel remodelled 1^0] sM I I i^ ^'^^ *° '^'^ ^^^^^t line and 
ancUgain remodelled ^'°''^ ''"^ ""'"'^y destroyed by fire 

iSs'^'a^TGetrafMc'SelL'tT;;^ '--' ^^^ 6> 

Essex House on the morm^Vof F:f r 186'3'' Th"^? ^'^^^ 
of that time stood some forlv feet fr. i ^^ ^''^^^ ^^^^^ 

court-yard for stage-coaches n'^fron Trr ''''''^ ''''^ ^ P^^^^ 
years, to be the leading hotel in the citv ""'"^""^' '^ ^^^ ^^^"^ 

deW'al^^^^:^, Jl-.f-t budt ^^ ^^- -^^^ -«lers as a 

ner of Selall and L ^d' St t^ t v^sT I "7 '''' '"'''''^ -- 
portion of the citv and wa^ tho ^ the highest ground in that 

ner, who lived on 'the fot ^''^"'-^^ °^ -^^"^"^^ ''^harp, the gun- 

pe^!s^L^:!!ed f!;r^;i;^^::frt 1^ ''^::iiz r'r 

Hawthorne's cour^Z his \ffi^ rf 'r''" ^^^"^^^ ^^^^ ^ays of 
mansion. HawZme w ho m n ^ f ", 'i '''^'^'^ "^ ^^is old-time 
tions connected wth tb^ lo,^ e " uf ^''''' delightful associa- 

Pleasant ''Dollte Ron mc '' " d T^ rif "^"'^^"^ ^" ^^e un- 
i^omance and m its still more disagreeable pre- 



HISTORIC BUILDINGS,, SITES, MONUMENTS^ ETC. 155 

sentment in "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret." The building was remodeled 
in 1915 and is now a lodging house. Rooms in this house were oc- 
cupied, at its inception, by the Children's Friend Society, the origi- 
nal of the Carpenter Street Home. See chapter on Hcuvthorne, p. 52. 

Nathaniel Hawthorne, Birthplace of, 27 Union street. Na- 
thaniel Hawthorne was born July 4, 1804, iuithe northwest chamber 
of this gambrel-roofed house. The house was built prior to 1685, by 
Benjamin Pickman, and came into the possession of the grandfather 
of Hawthorne in 1772. With the exception of a modern front door 
and windo^\■s, the house is in about the same condition as when the 
great author was born. The lot of land upon which this house 
stood extended through to Herbert street, and on the Herbert street 
end was a house to which the author's mother and her children re- 
moved upon the death of Capt. Hathorne, in 1808. The latter is 
now remodeled for a tenement house, and numbered 10l^ and 12. 
Hawthorne lived there until .1818, w^hen the family removed to Ray- 
mond, Me. The house was built about 1790, and when Hawthorne 
first lived in it, in 1808, it was owned by his grandfather, Richard 
Manning. Hawthorne's room in his youth was in the southwest 
corner of the third story, overlooking his birthplace. A pai\e of glass 
from one of the windows, on which he had scratched his name with 
a diamond, is still preserved by the family. See chapter on Haiv- 
thorne. page 42. 

"House of the Seven Gables", 54 Turner street, was built about 
1669 and long remained in the Turner family. During Hawthorne's 
residence in Salem it was occupied by his cousin, Miss Susan Inger- 
soll. In 1909 the house was restored and made the center of a neigh- 
borhood settlement work. Six furnished rooms, a "cent shop", and 
a secret staircase are shown. Admission 25 cents. Sec chapter on 
Hmvthorne, pac^e 04. 

The Marine Society Bethel, formerly situated on the water's 
edge, in what was the garden of the "House of the Seven Gables", 
now stands on the northern side of the "Gables" where it has been 
remodeled and is known as "Turner Hall". It was built in 1890 by 
funds bequeathed by Capt. Henry Barr. 



156 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




NARBONNE HOUSE, SHOWING LEAN-TO ROOF AND CORNER SHOP 



one^of'^H.eTp^''"'^' ]' ^'^'-^ ■^^^^^^' ^^"^^ '^^ilt before 1671 and is 

Z^IJ"::;:^^:^'^ ^' '^^^^-^ °^ ^^^^^ P--^' showlng'lean-to 

North Bridge. Here, on Sunday afternoon Feb 96 177=; .i. 

a. Marb "rd a,d m!'rXd ". t,"""^"'^ ^'«^'"'' "*'° '«<^ '^^^^^ 
to be concealed In .h" m«h Fidd"' '" ""* "' ^^""°" ''^"'-'^ 

beilg'noTtit ":r.t fte'S> '""'^^or.!, bridge, Colonel Leslie 

he fad fre,:rd'?bf Ll^fSe X 'c";? tr^'df "^l™ T^d 

on Ly,,de street, i„ the house now removed to « Federai s r et l1 

ed" Z:'Z' P^^-'-'- ;-""«' «- colonel that he cot^ld' no ' pro 

»ar..a. '^w had t^'^^n S;\d:ternTd%Srat ht ^S ^' 



HISTORIC BUILDINGS, SITES^ MONUMENTS, ETC. 157 

Religious services were in progress in the North church, which 
then stood on the soutliern corner of North and Lynde streets, when 
Capt. David Mason shouted the alarm, Maj. John Pedrick of Mar- 
blehead having ridden "across lots" with the intelligence in advance 
of the Regulars. Parson Thomas Barnard dismissed his congrega- 
tion and hastened to the bridge in the role of peacemaker. The 
draw had already been raised, and Capt. James Barr, who lived at 
25 Lynde street, had scuttled his "gundalow", which was lying at the 
wharf near by. During the discussion which ensued the guns were 
removed to a secure place. The concourse of citizens rapidly in- 
creased, and late in the afternoon Colonel Leslie agreed that if the 
draw should be lowered he would march but a few rods beyond, 
abandon the search and withdraw his regiment. The terms were ac- 
cepted and observed, and the regiment returned to Marblehead and 
re-embarked for Boston.* 

General Gage reported to his government that he had been misled 
and that the guns did not exist. The cannon in question were ship's 
guns loaned to the Province by Richard Derby, and were being 
mounted as field artillery in the blacksmith shop of Robert Foster, 
who lived at 88 North street, and whose shop was across the road 
from his house. This was the first opposition to the military author- 
ity of Great Britain. It occurred two months before Lexington and 
Concord, and four months before Bunker Hill, and if the British 
troops succeeded in their objects at those points, it may be said that 
they failed at Salem. A memorial tablet of bronze, inserted in an 
upright granite block, was placed at the North bridge in 1887, by 
the authorities of the city. It bears the following inscription : — 

IN THE REVOLUTION THE FIRST ARMED RESISTENCE TO THE ROYAL 
AUTHORITY WAS MADE AT THIS BRIDGE 26 Feb. 1775 BY THE PEOPLE 

OF Salem. The advance of 300 British troops, led by lt. col. 

LESLIE AND SENT BY GEN. GAGE TO SEIZE MUNITIONS OF WAR, WAS 
here ARRESTED. 

* Eldmund Burke summed up the situation in these memorable words, — 
"Thus ended their first expedition, without effect, and "happily without mis- 
chief. Enough appeared to show on what a slender thread the peace of the 
Empire hunj?, and that the least exertion »f the military power would cer- 
tainly bring things to extremities." 



ICO 

^^ VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 



Old Bakery formerly at 23 Washington street, is an ancient 
'n'Sl h V ""''^^^-^ - bakery for^.any year's. It wa buH 
n 1683 by Benjamin Hooper and was removed to the garden of the 
Gables" and remodeled in 1911 ^ 

Pickering House, 18 Broad Street. This ancient edifice of many 

Ictrinrf "; f "^ '''■'' '^ J°^"^ ^^^^^""-^' -^d has been in th^ 
f'lcker ng family ever since. It was remodelled in 1841 when the 
present "peaked windows" and exterior finish were added Col 
Timothy Pickering, soldier and statesman, was born here in 174^' 
An mteresting cast iron fire back cast in 1660 at the Sauaus Iron 

™e 'inStur"'- "^ '"^ '^^"' "^^^ ^" "^" "^ themuseunrof the 
Pickman House, rear of 165 Essex street, was built bv Col Ben- 
jamin Pickman in 1743. It was beautifullv furnished and decoVate 
and each stair was finished with a carved and gilded codfish (see one 
preserved in the museum of the Essex Institute) indicating th sour 
of hi. affluence. Governor Pownall was entertained here Oct 22 
jm'l2(tT800 '''^^^^'"^' -^'"'' ^^' ''^^' '"^ Alexander Hamilton,' 
Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse Estate was on the southern corner 
o Washington and Lynde streets, now occupied by the Mason c Tern 
pie erected in 1915-16. It was built in 1764, bv Hon. B njam n 
Pickman, a wealthy merchant. In one of the windows of the cuoo " 
a space was left, through .vhich a spy-glass could be used to watch 
for in-commg ships. The eagle on the top of the cupola, like sev- 
eral others in Salem, was the work of Mclntire. The arched ceilhv. 
of the cupola had a fresco by Corne, showing the Derbv fleet the 
house having been occupied by Elias Hasket Derby during the ;ear 
of his greatest commercial activity, and until a few months before 
his death, when he removed to his new and "elegant" mansion on the 
site of the present market house. This cupola isliow preserved i le 
garden in the rear of the museum of the Essex Institute 

Pierce-Nichols House, 80 Federal street, erected in 1782 is a 
fine specimen of the houses of the time of commercial prosperity and 
the finest example extant of the work of Samuel Mclntire Sa enV ■ 
famous architect. ^iicui -> 




THE NICHOLS HOUSE. 



PAVED COURTYARD IN REAR OF NICHOLS HOUSE. 



160 visitor's guide to SALEM 

"Pine Apple Doorway", see Essex Institute Museum. 

Prison Ship. During the War of 1812-15, a large prison ship, 
filled with British prisoners of M'ar, was anchored in the North river, 
opposite the foot of Rust street. 

Ruck House, 8 Mill street, was built by Thomas Ruck before 
1651, several additions having since been made. The oldest portioij 
is the northwest corner, where the great chimney stands, and it 
remained in the Ruck family until 1751, when the old part was con- 
veyed to Joseph Mclntire, joiner, father of Samuel Mclntire, the 
famous architect. Mr. Mclntire sold the old part to Samuel Bacon, 
who owned the new part, in 1754. While the latter owned the house 
it was occupied, in 1766 and 1767, by Richard Cranch, a watchmaker 
and local justice. Mr. Cranch and the young lawyer, John Adams, 
afterwards President of the United States, married sisters; and when 
riding the eastern circuit, Adams visited Salem several times, stop- 
ping with "brother" Cranch. In speaking of the house, he wrote in 
his journal, while visiting there, Nov. 3, 1766, "Cranch is now in a 
good situation for business, near the Court House, . . . his house, 
fronting on the ^\harves, the harbor and the shipping, has a fine 
prospect before it." Cranch's son William became, in 1805, the cele- 
brated Justice Cranch of the United States supreme court. Mr. 
Cranch removed to Boston in 1767, and was succeeded as a tenant of 
this house by John Singleton Copley, the celebrated artist, who re- 
mained here a considerable time painting portraits of lead- 
ing citizens. Copley's son, subsequently Lord Lyndhurst, Lord 
Chancellor of England, was brought here while an infant. The fam- 
ily sailed for England in 1775, being in sympathy with the Crown. 
This was the house of Rev. Samuel Worcester, pastor of the Taber- 
nacle church, from 1809 until his decease in 1821; and of Rev. 
Thomas Carlisle, rector of St. Peter's, in 1822. Since that time it has 
been in possession of the family of Ephraim Brown, the rear portion 
of it being known in former times as Brown's bakery. 

Ship Tavern, Site of. Opposite Central street stood the residence 
of John Gedney before 1660, He conducted a tavern here and in a 
•chamber of the ancient house the quarterly courts were held for manv 




RUCK HOUSE, WHERE JOHN ADAMS VISITED AND COPLEY PAINTED. 
BIRTHPLACE OF TLMOTHY PICKERING. 



162 visitor's guide to salem 

years. The house was known as "Ship Tavern" and was taken down 
in 1748. A fine house called the "King's Arms" was built upon the 
site and the business continued. President Jackson visited Salem 
June 26, 1833, and passed the night in this house, which was placed 
at his disposal by its owner, Capt. Nathaniel West. Later it became 
the "Mansion House". 

Shipyard of the Beckets. iVt the foot of Becket street was the 
shipyard of the Becket family, who built vessels here from 1755 to 
1800, and later in a yard beyond. The privateer America, the fa- 
mous ships Mount Vernon, Recovery, and Margaret, and the cele- 
brated yachi; Cleopatra's Barege, were built here. 

John Ward House, see Essex Institute Museum. 

Joshua Ward House. 1 48 Washington street. The ancient struc- 
ture that originally stood on the site of this house was the residence 
of Sheriff George Corwin, who, in 1692, at the age of twenty-six, 
executed the persons condemned for witchcraft. He died here four 
years later, and it is said that the public feeling against him was then 
so bitter that the family dared not trust his remains in the tomb in 
the rear of the house, but deposited them for a long time in the cellar 
of the house. The main portion of the present brick house was built 
in 1781 for his residence, by the merchant, Joshua Ward. Washing- 
ton passed the night of Oct. 29, 1789, in the northeast chamber, 
second floor, of this hotise, when on his tour of New England. 

Ward-Crowninshield House. The residence of Miles Ward, 
built about 1740, now much remodelled, stands on the eastern corner 
of Herbert and Derby streets. Jacob Crowninshield also lived here. 
He was a merchant and member of Congress, and was appointed 
Secretary of the Navy by President Jefferson but declined the honor. 
During his life in the Manning house on Herbert street, Nathaniel 
Hawthorne was very intimate with the family living in this house. 
Stce chapter on HaK'thornc, page 5o. 

West House. At the northern corner of North and Lynde 
streets stands a house, in which was born and lived Lieut. Benjamin 
West. He was an ancestor of the late Hon. Caleb Foote, of the 
Salem Gazette, who had an original portrait of him, painted by West 




kllLES WARD AND JACOB CROWN INbHIELD HOUSE, SHOWING GAMBREL ROOF. 
CABOT AND JUDGE ENDICOTT HOUSE, SHOWING GAMBREL ROOF. 



^^'^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

himself. A pastel copy is at the Essex Institute. The house wa 
bull 111 1 75J. From it Lieutenant West marched to the Battle o 
Bunker Hill, where he was the only man from Salem who lost hi 
lite. 

.1. "^'??.i^T^^"' ^^^ ^^'''■" '^'■'^^- The house is familiarly callec 
the Old Witch House," from the fact that a tradition exists tha 
some preliminary examinations in witchcraft cases were held in one 
of ^its rooms when it was occupied by Jonathan Corwin, one of the 
juages m the witchcraft trials. A drawing of the house as it was ir 
Its early days may be seen at the Essex Institute. The interior and 
cnimney are m much the same state as in 1692. The house was un- 
hnished in 1675 when reconstructed in much its present form See 
chapter on Salem Architecture, page 



JJ- 



Monuments. 

Roger Conant Statue. Upon a huge bowlder brought from the 
woods near the Floating Bridge and placed at the easterly end of 
Brown street, stands the heroic bronze figure of Roger Conant the 
leader of the first settlement at Naumkeag, now Salem, in 1626 'The 
sratue was designed by Henry H. Kitson for the Conant Family As- 
sociation and dedicated June 17. 1913. 

Father Mathew Statue. At the western end of Charter street 
on the right in the middle of Central street, is the statue of Rev' 
Theobald Mathew, the apostle of temperance, who yisited Salem' 
Sept. 19, 1849. The. statue Avas erected in 1887. over a sprinc^ 

23d Regiment Boulder stands in Winter street at the end near- 
est the Common, lliis granite boulder Aveidis about 58 tons and 
was brought from Salem Neck in 1905. It commemorates the ser- 
vice of the 23d Regt. Mass. Yol. Infantry in the Civil War The 
bronze tablet also records the names of' thirteen engagements in 
which the regiment took part and the corps-badge of the 1 8th Army 
Corps, in bronze also is attached to the boulder. The cannon within 
the enclosure formerly were in front of the old Cadet Armory 



CHAPTER XI. 



Cemeteries. 

Broad Street Burial Ground. In the rear of the schoolhouses 
at the corner of Broad street and Summer street is the Broad street 
cemetery, which was laid out in 1655, burials having previously 
taken place there. Here are buried George Corwin, the sheriff who 
served the warrants on the persons convicted of witchcraft, Judge 
Nathaniel Ropes, Col. Timotliy Pickering, Gen. Frederick W. Lan- 
der, and Caroline Plummer, a name attached to literary and char- 
itable institutions in Salem and to a professorship at Harvard. The 
older stones are upon the higher ground at the southern side ; among 
them are those of John Norman, 1713; Mary Lambert, 1693; and 
the three Sewall children, 1684-88, the record on the last named 
stone closing with a quaint and pathetic verse. 

Charter Street Burial Ground. This is the oldest burial ground 
in the city, and was originally known as "Burying Point," being situ- 
ated on a blutf which projected into South 
river. The oldest stones can be found just east 
of the large willow tree in the center of the 
ground and west of it towards the western 
fence and in the rear of the "Grimshawe 
House." The oldest stone is that of "Doraty, 
wife to Philip Cromwell," 1673. Capt. Rich- 
ard More who came in the "Mayflower," as a 
boy of twelve, is buried here and his grave- 
stone is the only one of a Mayflower passenger 
known to exist. A very curious stone erected 
to the memory of Timothy Lindall, a merchant 
of Salem, should be noticed, as well as that to 
Nathaniel Mather, the precocious vounger brother of the celebrated 

(165) 




Capt. Richard More 
gravestone. 



166 visitor's guide to salem 

Cotton Mather of Boston, whose epitaph reads, "An aged person 
that had seen but nhieteen' winters in the world." Governor Brad- 
street, Rev. John Higginson, the Chief Justices Lynde and Judge 
Hathorne of the witchcraft court are also buried here. Governor 
Bradstreet's tomb, covered by a simple monument erected by the 
Province, is located on the highest part of the ground about midway 
on the western or right-hand side. Originally an elaborate inscrip- 
tion in Latin was to be read upon the slab, but it is now wholly worn 
away by the elements. The rest of the tombs in the place having 
monuments are marked, but not a letter remains to show the identity 
of this one. Situated at the rear of the cemetery on the left-hand, 
near the stone of Dorothy Cromwell is that of Miss Mary Crom- 
well, dated 1683. This is the finest and only perfect example of its 
class of ancient gravestones known to exist in the county, and one 
of the two or three now standing in New England. Here is, also, 
the gravestone of "Dr. John Swinnerton, Physician," who died in 
1688. The name of Doctor Swinnerton appears in "The House of 
the Seven Gables" and, again, as the ancient apothecary, with th^ 
sign of the "the brazen serpent," in the "Doliver Romance," and the 
name of his own ancestor, Hathorne, the romancer has used as 
freely. Hawthorne frequented, and often mentioned in his writings, 
this old burial ground, which remains unchanged. A bronze tablet, 
placed by the city upon the iron fence on the- street, bears th-e. fol- 
lowing inscription : — " . 

This ground^ the first set apart in Salem for the burial 
OF the dead, and, since 1637 known as The Burying Point, 

CONTAINS the GRAVES OF GOVERNOR BrADSTREET, ChIEF JUSTICES 

Lynde, and others whose virtues, honor, courage and sagacity^ 

HAVE NOBLY ILLUSTRATED THE HiSTORY OF SaLEM. 

Friends' Cemetery, 396^4 Essex street. Here, for a hundred 
years from 1718, stood the second meeting-house of the Society of 
Friends. 

Greenlawn Cemetery, bounded by Orne and Appleton streets. 






\\( fiu-nUimon 



m. I -lore 9| 



''J^ -X *-■*• 



W: 




11 



Md \>if(' M M' jon 






GRAVESTONES IN THE CHARTER STREET CKMEIERY. 



168 visitor's guide to salem 

and Liberty Hill avenue, is the principal burial place owned and 
controlled by the city. It was first used in 1807. A beautiful me- 
morial chapel and conservatory, erected in 1894, by Walter Scott 
Dickson, in memory of his wife, is located here, and also a soldiers' 
monument, placed here by the Sons of Veterans. 

Harmony Grove Cemetery. By continuing down School and 
Grove streets to 30 Grove street, the main entrance of Harmony 
Grove cemetery is reached. It comprises about sixty-five acres. This 
was one of the first of the rural cemeteries to be established in this 
neighborhood (1840), following closelv the model set at Mount 
Auburn. An arch of rough stones spans the carriage-way at the en- 
trance. It is fortunate in having within its precincts some fine 
wooded growth which gives it a quiet and secluded air, though this 
seclusion is somewhat marred by the close proximity of the railroad 
with its numerous passing trains. Many expensive monuments have 
been placed in private lots. The beautiful memorial chapel, built in 
1905, is a bequest of Mrs. Nancy C. Blake in memory of her son 
George Harrison Blake, who died in 1869. In a lot on Locust path, 
the remains of George Peabody, the great philanthropist, are in- 
terred, and a large sacophagus of granite marks the last resting 
place of Capt. John Bertram, the generous benefactor of Salem. A 
soldiers' lot, on Greenwood avenue, has a fine granite monument and 
a tablet, erected by means of the M. Fenollosa fund. 

Howard Street Burial Ground adjoins the Prescott schoolhouse 
and is under the care of the city. The first interments were made in 
1801, and in the tomb of George Crowninshield reposed temporarily 
the bodies of Captain Lawrence and Lieutenant Ludlow of the 

St. Mary's Cemetery. At 220 North street is the extensive 
burial around of the Roman Catholics. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Parks, Squares^ etc. 






The Common, which was named Washington square in 1802, is 
a territory of about eight acres, bounded by what were until 1880 
known as Newbury, Brown, Pleasant and Forrester streets, but are 

now called by the general name of 
Washington square. This has al- 
ways been public land. Originally 
the southern, southeastern and cen- 
tral portions were swamp, contain- 
ing five ponds and there were sever- 
al hillocks. In front of what is now 
the Second or East church, was the 
pen, the upland portion of what is 
now the common. This is the place 
where the cows were brought morn- 
ings and returned at night as the 
yard, from which the cowherds 
took the cows to the Neck for the 
day and to which they returned them at night, for the owners. On 
this part military drill was regularly held and in 1714, the common- 
ers voted that the spot "where trainings are held in front of Nathan- 
iel Higginson's house shall be forever kept as a training field for 
the use of Salem." It is nov,' a level lawn, the ponds having been 
filled in and the entire surface levelled in 1801, when Elias Has- 
ket Derby, then a colonel in the militia, raised about $2500 for put- 
ting the reservation in better condition for a "training field." A 




Tl^elT-lritire V/e5tQate 
1805- 1850. 



(169) 



170 



visitor's guide to SALEM 



wooden fence with four ornamented 
gates was provided in 1805. The 
western gate was ornamented with 
wood carvings by the architect Sam- 
uel Mclntire including a medallion 
portrait of Washington, now pre- 
served in the museum of the Essex 
Institute. The large elms on the 
Common were planted about 1818 
to replace Lombardy poplars, the 
trees first set out in 1802, and which 
were destroved in the great gale of 
Sept. 23, 1815. 

Forest River Park, reached 
through Clifton avenue, from Lafay- 
ette street, is finely located on rolling 
land skirting the harbor. It was pur- 
chased by the city and opened in 1907 
1 1 contains 29 acres and is equipped 
with a bathing basin and spaces for 
games and sports. 
is opposite the main entrance to Harmony 
Grove cemetery, and was devised to the city by the will of Esther C. 
Mack, in 1885, being confirmed by the will of her brother. Dr. Wil- 
liam Mack, in 1895. This is an extensive rocky eminence, affording 
an excellent view of the city and harbor. 

Liberty Hill, which is reached by way of Liberty Hill avenue, 
has been a park from the first settlement, and is a favorite resort for 
many people on account of "Cold Spring", several springs of pure 
cold water, which have been used for centuries. This is a delightful 
and picturesque spot; and here in 1844, the Millerites conducted a 
camp meeting, ten thousand people attending on a single Sunday. 

The Willows. At the easterly end of the city is the park called 
the Willows. Not only is this resorted to by the people., of the city, 




WASHING lux 

Medallion can'ed in wood by 

Samuel Mclntire 

Hill Park 



Ledge 




THE WILLOWS. 



"THE CLIFFS," BAKER'S ISLAND 



172 VISlTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

but pleasant summer days bring thousands of visitors by water and 
land from Boston, Lowell, and nearer towns and cities. Steam- 
boats ply about the harbor and to Baker's island. The location is 
beautiful, being on a peninsula, jutting out in a rugged point, and is 
one of the few such sites on our coast freely accessible to the public. 
To the north, across the water, lies the Beverly shore, with its sum- 
mer residences peeping out from among the trees ; Cape Ann is at 
the northeast; Great and Little Misery, Baker's (with its twin light- 
Jiouses), Lowell, and the smaller islands of the harbor, directly sea- 
ward ; and on the south is the rocky headland of Marblehead, with 
its dilapidated old Fort Miller at the water's edge. On fine days the 
harbor is enlivened by scores of sailing craft and launches. The city 
provides open pavilions, where parties may lunch and enjoy the 
scenery and surroundings. Several restaurants are rented by the 
city, and at any of them lunch, dinner or supper may be had at a 
moderate price ; and for children there are the amusements usually 
found in public places. The old trees which gave the name to this 
marine park are European white willows. They were planted by the 
Salem Board of Health in 1801, to provide a shady walk for con- 
valescents at an old hospital. Nine of the forty trees remain today. 

Juniper Point. Adjoining the Willows to the south is Juniper 
Point, a summer resort, with many pleasantly situated cottages and 
two hotels, the Atlantic, and Juniper Point Inn. 

Fort Lee. 7"here have been forts and blockhouses on Salem 
Neck from the earliest times. Fort Lee is located on the heights at 
the left beyond the citv farm. There was a fort constructed on this 
site as early as 1742, and it was occupied in the War of 1812-15. In 
the War of the Rebellion it was mounted with four guns, which com- 
manded the approaches to the outer harbor. It is still the property 
of the United States government. The earthworks add much to the 
picturesqu*e appearance of the Neck. 

Winter Island. Opposite Fort Lee, to the right, lies Winter 
Island, reached by a causeway. In the early days this was the cen- 
ter of the fishing industry and a place of shipbuilding ; many people 
resided there and on the adjacent portions of the Neck, and two 



PARKS, SQUARES, ETC. 173 

or more taverns flourished there in early days. Tlie noted frigate 
Essex, of thirty-two guns, was built here in 1799, by Enos Briggs, at 
a spot near the lighthouse. Several public executions have taken 
place here, the last one being in 1821, when Stephen Merrill Clark 
of Newbury, a boy of sixteen, was hanged for the crime of arson. 

Fort Pickering is on Winter island. There was a fort here as 
early as 1643. During the War of 1812-15 it was occupied, and at 
the time of the Civil War it was fortified with six guns. During 
the Spanish-American War two companies of the Mass. 1st Heavy 
Artillery were stationed here. The fort was located here to prevent 
the passage of unfriendly vessels into the inner harbor. 

Winter Island Lighthouse, reached by a bridge, is near Fort 
Pickering. The visitor can inspect tlie lighthouse upon application 
to the keeper. 

Town House Square. This square is formed by the crossing of 
Essex and Washington streets. From the first settlement this has 
been the center of population and business ; and the scene of manv 
important events. 

Red Cross Incident. , Town House Square is undoubtedly the 
scene of Endecott's catting the red cross of St. George from the flag 
of England. He was so opposed to all suggestions of papacy that 
he argued that a banner bearing a cross was improper in a Puritan 
commonwealth, and without fear of magistrates or of the offence to 
his sovereign he deliberately removed the obnoxious emblem of the 
church. For this act he was disfranchised for one year, by the au- 
thorities of the colony, though they secretly sympathized with him, 
but feared the effect the act would produce upon the future relations 
between the king and the colony. 

The Town Pump that Hawthorne wrote about in "A Rill from 
the Town Pump," is commemorated by the site of the old town pump 
in Town House square, which is approximately marked by a circular 
stone bearing the letter "H". See chapter on Haivthorne, page 61. 

The Watch House was first a part of the town, court and school 
house when the latter was removed to the middle of Washington 
street in 1676. The watch house was probably a small ell. In 1712. 



174 visitor's guide to salem 

this little room was added to the school room, and a new watch 
house was built on the north side of the square in Washington street, 
midway between what is now the Northey block and the Neal and 
Newhall building. It was a little more than a large sentry box, and 
upon its top was a carved wooden, life-size figure of a soldier, bear- 
ing upon its breast the legend "Anna Regina, 1712." On this spot 
two cannon were mounted in the early days. 

Washington Street may be said to have been the only "street" in 
Salem for many years after its settlement, having been laid out, four 
rods wide, in the original laying out of the town, about 1629. The 
other early paths, including Essex street, were narrow, crooked ways. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Prominent Citizens and Visitors. 

Gen. Stephen Abbot (1749-1813), an officer in the Revolution 
and first colonel of the Salem Cadets, lived at 21 Federal street, 
where he entertained Wasliington in 1789. 

President John Adams ( 1735-1826) as a young lawyer frequent- 
ly visited Salem while riding the eastern circuit and while here he 
stopped with his brotlier-in-law, Richard Cranch, who lived on 
Mill street. In 1769 John Adams tried a murder case in the old 
court house in Town House square, appearing for the defendant. 

William Allen (1602-1678) one of the Old Planters, lived in a 
house that formerly stood on the western corner of Essex and Elm 
streets. 

Gov. John A. Andrew (1818-1867), Civil War Governor of 
Massachusetts, frequently visited the Andrew house, 13 Washington 
square, West, to escape the cares of public office. He also was en- 
tertained by Hon. Robert S. Rantoul at 17 Winter street. 

President Chester A. Arthur (1830-1886) visited the Essex In- 
stitute and the Peabody Museum on Sept. 8, 1882, having driven into 
Salem from Marblehead, where he was entertained after landing 
from the U. S. S. Despatch, while on a cruise in eastern waters. 

Rev. Thomas Barnard (1748-1776) pastor of the North church, 
and a central figure in the affair at the North Bridge, February, 1775, 
lived at that time in the large gambrel-roofed house now nestling 
among noble elms and buttonwoods, at 395 Essex street. Rev. Brown 
Emerson afterwards lived there. 

(175) 



176 



VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM 




Beif-ley: 



Gov. Jonathan Belcher (1682-1757) 
was the guest of Chief Justice Lynde on 
Feb. 28, 1739 at his house formerly on the 
site of the Lynde Block, 145 Essex street. 

Prof. Alexander Graham Bell (1847- 
) conducted many of the experiments 
and tests which led to his invention of the 
telephone in the Saunders house, 292 Es- 
sex street, on the site of the Y. M. C. A. 
building. 

Rev. William Bentley (1759-1819), 
historian, patriot, radical and scholar, 
lived in the house numbered 106 Essex 
street. He was pastor of the East Church from 1783 until his de- 
cease. His diary has been published in four large volumes by the 
Essex Institute. 

Rev. Charles T. Brooks (1813-1883), the essayist and poet, 
resided at 38 Washington square, South. 

Nathaniel Bowditch (1773-1838), eminent mathematician, was 
born. March 26, 17 73 in a house that formerly stood at 2 Brown 
street, but is now in the rear, at the end of Kimball court. During 
the last years of his residence in Salem he 
lived at 312 Essex street. Rev. SainiicJ 
Johnson, a noted liberal preaclier, eminent 
scholar and writer, the author of "Oriental 
Religions." was also l^orn in this liouse. 

Gov. Simon Bradstreet (1603-1697). 
Colonial Governor of Massachusetts, lived 
and died in a house formerly on the site of 
the museuem building of the Essex Insti- 
tute. He was buried in the Charter street 
l)urving ground. 

Gov. ' William Burnett (1688-1729) 
convened the General Court in the old Sa- 
lem Town House in 1728 and 1729. 




^OY(ditc\\ 



PROMI-XKNT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 177 

George Cabot (1751-1823), the distinguished Federalist and 
president of the Hartford convention, was born in a house formerly 
on the site of the Empire Theatre, 285 Essex street. 

Rufus Choate (1799-1859), "the wizard of the bar," while liv- 
ing in Salem, occupied the house, 14 Lynde street, and also lived at 
1 14 Federal street. 

Gen. William Cogswell (1838-1895), lived in the large brick 
West block, 7 Summer street. He was an able General in the Civil 
War, mayor of Salem and member of Congress. He was buried from 
the Tabernacle Church with military honors. 

John Singleton Copley (1737-1815), the celebrated artist, came 
to Salem in 1767 or 1768 and lived in the Ruck house, 8 Mill street. 
While here he painted many notable portraits. His son, subsequent- 
ly Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor of England, was brought here 
Avhile an infant. 

Giles Corey (1616-1692) lived on the site of 46 Boston street, 
before his removal to his last residence in what is now West Pea- 
body. He was pressed to death for refusing to plead at the time of 
the witchcraft trials, the only time in America this penalty was in- 
flicted. 

Benjamin W. Crowninshield (1772-1851), member of Con- 
gress and Secretary of the Navy under Madison and Monroe, lived 
at 180 Derby street, the house now being occupied by the "Old 
Ladies' Home". 

King Edward VII. (1841-1910), then Prince of Wales, was re- 
ceived, on his Eastern tour, by the city government of Salem, Oct. 
20, 1860. The affair M-as most amusing. The mayor and alderman 
had been provided with an enclosure placed against the iron fence 
of the tunnel, just at its entrance from the railroad station, and the 
length of the train between the engine driver's cab and the platform 
of the Prince's car had been measured and a mark made on the side 
of the tunnel opposite which the engine driver was to stop in order 
to bring the Prince's platform against the enclosure containing the 
mayor and aldermen. But before the train left Boston another car 
was added between the engine and the Prince's car, bringing the 



178 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 

platform of the latter, when it came to a standstill, a rod or two 
away from rhe city governmentr Signals were made to the engine- 
driver to start up his train, and he, supposing the function had been 
for some reason abandoned, pushed on into the tunnel. As soon as 
possible the city government broke loose from their enclosure, made 
their way through the dense mass of people, followed the tra,in into 
the tunnel, aixi some of them, including His Honor the Mayor, suc- 
ceeded in getting on board, while others returned to the upper air, 
and a few, unable to face the grotesque situation, pursued their way 
on foot to the northern end of the tunnel, where they emerged. His 
Royal Highness the Prince of Wales was graciously pleased to re- 
mark that he was delighted with what he saw of the ancient city of 
Salem. 

Gov. John Endecott (1589-1665), lived in "a faire house" whose 
oaken frame had l)een brought from England and set up at Cape 
Ann and afterward removed to Salem and located near what is now 
53 Washington street. 

Judge William Crowninshield Endicott (1826-1900) was 
born in the house now the Old Ladies' Home, 180 Derby street, 
and in after life lived for some thirty 3'ears in the Cabot house, 365 
Essex street. He became Justice of the Supreme Judicial Court, and 
Secretary of War under President Cleveland. 

Prof. Moses G. Farmer (1820-1893) lived at 11 Pearl street 
and later, at 316 Essex street. He invented an electric lamp in 
1859, and afterwards constructed, for the city of Boston, the first 
successful electric fire alarm. 

Rev. Joseph B. Felt (1789-1869), the historian, and author of 
"Annals of Salem," and other historical works, resided at 27 Nor- 
man street. 

Gov. Thomas Gage (1720-1787) transferred the seat of gov- 
ernment to Salem in June, 1774 and during that summer he lived at 
the Hooper house in Danvers, guarded by a regiment of British reg- 
ulars. 

Hon. Benjamin Goodhue (1748-1814), United States senator, 
1796-1800, was born at 70 Boston street. Here also was born, Jan. 



PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 179 

11, 1812, Dr. Henry Wheatland, the founder of the Essex Insti- 
tute. Senator Goodhue also lived at 403 Essex street. 

President Ulysses S. Grant (1822-1885) passed through the 
city in a train, Oct. 17, 1871, and was received by the city govern- 
ment, upon a temporary platform erected in Washington street, to 
which the President stepped from his car and addressed a few words 
to the people. 

Hon. William Gray, Jr. (1750-1825) was born in Lynn but 
came to Salem at an early age and became one of the greatest mer- 
chants and ship-owners in the country. He lived in a mansion 
formerly where the New Essex House stands today. His counting 
room (destroyed in the great fire of 1914) was at 311 Derby street. 
He was Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts in 1810-11. 

Alexander Hamilton (1757-1804) visited Salem June 20, 1800 
and was entertained at the Benjamin Pickman house, 165 Essex 
street. Five years later the new Assembly Hall on Chestnut street 
was built and named iii his honor. 

Capt. Jonathan Haraden (1745-1803), the redoubtable com- 
mander of the Revolutionary privateer. Gen. Pickering, lived in the 
large brick house, since altered to a double tenement, 32 and 34 
Charter street. 

President Benjamin Harrison (1833-1901) visited the Essex 
Institute and the Peabody Museum on Aug 12, 1893, coming from 
Beverly, where he was the guest of his daughter, 

Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-1864). Sec chapter on Haw- 
thorne, page 4-1-. 

Mrs. Sophia (Peabody) Hawthorne (1810-1871) was born at 
53 Summer street. 

Rev. Francis Higginson (1588-1630), the first "teacher" of the 
Salem church, lived midway between what is now the First church 
and the street car office. He was the author of "New England's 
Plantation," and the ancestor of the American Higginsons. He 
came in 1629 and died the next year. 



180 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 




H?lyol\e. 



Dr. Edward Augustus Holyoke 

(1728-1829), centenarian physician of Sa- 
lem, lived where the Naumkeag Building 
now stands, 205 Essex street. The Essex 
Institute has his professional journals re- 
cording a medical practice of eighty years' 
duration. He was the first president of 
the old Philosophical Society, of the Sa- 
lem Athenaeum, and of the Essex Histor- 
ical Society ; the friend and correspondent 
of leading men of science and letters, ac- 
tive in every public enterprise, especially 
in building the Salem and Boston Turn- 
pike ; and seven months before his death, presided at a dinner of the 
Massachusetts Medical Society, given in his honor, on his one hun- 
dredth birthdav. His portrait is at the Institute. 

President Andrew Jackson (1767-1845) visited Salem, June 
26, 1833 and passed the night at the "Mansion House" which then 
stood nearly opposite the head of Central street. On the following 
day before breakfast he visited the museum of the East India Marine 
Society and other points of interest, and at nine o'clock left for 
Lowell. 

Rev. Samuel Johnson (1822-1882), liberal preacher, eminent 
scholar and author of "Oriental Religions," was born at 2 Brown 
street. The building is now in the rear at the end of Kimball court. 

Louis Kossuth (1802-1894) the Hungarian patriot, was enter- 
tained in Salem, May 6, 1852, being welcomed in front of the Es- 
sex House by the mayor, Hon. Charles W. Upham, in an eloquent 
address, and later driven about the city. 

Marquis de Lafayette (1757-1834') visited Salem Oct. 29, 1784 
and was entertained at the Assembly Hall, 138 Federal street. He 
again visited Salem Aug. 31, 1824 and was accorded a grand ovation 
by sailors at the hill on Lafayette street and by the school children 
on the Common. He was welcomed by Judge Story in front of the 
Essex House on his arrival. The hotel was then known as the Essex 



PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 181 

Coffee House. Lafayette spent the night there and for a short 
time after it was called the Lafayette Coffee House. He dined at 
Hamilton Hall, with three hundred guests, and was entertained by 
Judge Story at 26 Winter street in the evening. That the Marquis 
was pleased with his reception in Salem appears from two accounts 
of his American tour, printed in France on his return home.* 

During his visit he was, several times, at and near Washington 
Square, and an elaborate arch was erected at the head of Winter 
street from which hung a decoration printed on American duck 
woven at the factory of William Gray, which is still standing in 
Spring street, and has been occupied by the Pulsifers, as a carpet 
factory, and a paint shop, — by the Hon. David M. Little for boat 
building, and by Ross Turner as a studio. This decoration is now 
at the Essex Institute and bears a verse composed by the late George 
C. Chase, then a bookkeeper at the duck factory. The verse is as 
follows, and is perpetuated in several of the memoirs of Lafayette's 
last visit to America : — 

"While winds shall blow, and seas shall roll, 
While aught remains that's good and great, 
Our NATIVE DUCK, from pole to pole, 
Shall waft the fame of LA-FAYETTE." 

Gen. Frederick West Lander (1822-1862), brave officer in the 
Civil War, was born at 5 Barton square. Educated as a civil engi- 
neer, he was employed by the government to report on the feasibility 
of a railroad to the Pacific. He also constructed the great wagon- 
road which made the railroad possible, and on one of his surveys, 
undertaken at his own expense, he was the only member who re- 
turned alive. In 1861, when Sumter fell, he was in Texas on a 
secret embassy from the government, and escaped with great diffi- 
culty at the last moment, bringing important advices to Washing- 
ton. He was made a brigadier. May 17th, and in June was assigned 
to a command on the upper Potomac. He was shot in the leg in the 

* "In each of these towns, he was the object of the same demonstrations; 
but it was at Salem that the brilHancy of his reception was particularly 
marked; the rain that fell in torrents did not damp the ardor of anybody. 
Here and at Beverly he attempted in vain to dismiss the civic escorts which 
attended him; the very children, for once, refused to obey him." Voyage dU'' 
■Oenerol Lafayette aux Etats-Unis d' Amereque: Paris, J82b. 



182 visitor's guide to salp:m ■ 

disastrous battle at Ball's Bluff. His wound had not healed when 
he reported for duty to General Hancock, in January, 1862. His 
death was announced March 3d, in a special order from General 
McClellan. His remains were brought here, and, after lying in 
state at the City Hall, were buried from the South Church with a de- 
gree of pomp and ceremony unequalled since the funeral honors ac- 
corded, in 1813, to Lawrence and Ludlow. 

Gov. -Levi Lincoln (1782-1868) was entertained by Rev. Dr. 
Brazer at his home, 1 7 Winter street, now occupied by Hon. Robert 
S. Rantoul. 

Hon. George Bailey Loring (1817-1891), member of Congress, 
commissioner of agriculture under Presidents Garfield and Arthur, 
and minister to Portugal under Harrison, lived in the house, now 
much altered, 328 Essex street, and here on several occasions enter- 
tained President Pierce. 

Abiel Abbot Low (ISl 1-1893), eminent merchant of New 
York city, philanthropist and benefactor of Salem, was born on 
P>deral street. 

Hon. Benjamin Lynde (1666-1745), Chief Justice of the 
Province of Massachusetts Bay, 1729-1745; his son, bearing the 
same name and holding the same office ; and Judge Andrew Oliver, 
son of Lieutenant-Governor Oliver, in turn occupied the house that 
formerly stood on the present site of the Lynde -Block, 145 Essex 
street. 

Gen. George B. McClellan (1826-1885) passed the day in Sa- 
lem, Feb. 5, 1863, was tendered a public reception at the Essex 
House in the morning and later a breakfast at the mansion of 
George Peabody, 29 Washington square. 

Samuel Mctntire (1757-1811). eminent architect and carver in 
wood lived at 29 Summer street. His shop was at 6 Chestnut street. 
Examples of his carving may be seen at the museum of the Essex 
Institute. 

Thomas Maule (164 5-1724'), whose name is famous from his 
connection with the Quakers, built, about 1690, and occupied the 



PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 183 

house that formerly stood at 331 Essex street. He figures in the 
"House of the Seven Gables." 

Gen. James Miller (1776-1851, the hero of Lundy Lane in the 
War of 1812, Governor of Arkansas, 1819-1825, and GoUector of 
the port of Salem, 1825-1849, lived at 180 Derby street, now the 
'•Old Ladies' Home". 

President James Monroe (1758-1831) visited Salem, July 8, 
1817, coming from Alarblehead, and was present at the opening of 
the new Town House and Market. On the next day he lunched with 
Senator Silsbee, at 94 Washington square ; dined at Secretary 
Crowninshield's, now the Old Ladies' Home ; and was entertained in 
the evening by Judge Story at his house, 26 Winter street. The 
next evening he attended a ball at the house of Stephen White, 31 
Washington square, and left for the East on the following morning. 

Capt. Richard More (1614-1696) was buried in the Charter 
street cemetery and his gravestone, still standing and in good condi- 
tion, is the only contemporary gravestone of a "Mayflower" passen- 
ger, on its voyage of 1621, known to exist. 

Rev.- Edward Norris ( 1579-1659) lived, from 1649 until his 
death in 1659, at what is now 90 Washington street. He was the 
pastor of the First church, 1640-1659. 

Rev. Nicholas Noyes (1647-1717), the pastor of the First 
church at the time of the witchcraft delusion, lived at what is now 
74 Washington street. 

Gen. Henry Kemble Oliver (1800-1885) lived at 142 Federal 
street and named his famous tune "Federal Street" after this street. 
He was mayor of Lawrence and of Salem, being almost the organ- 
izer of Lawrence, in a municipal sense, for he was mayor in her 
first years and arranged the plan of her parks, public buildings, 
schools and churches, securing unity in the general design, and 
choosing the bells to be placed on engine-houses, cotton-mills, schools 
and churches, so that they made a harmonious chime. He was also 
at different times a teacher in Salem, organist of the North church, 
musical composer and bass singer, adjutant-general, and treasurer 



184 



visitor's guide to SALEM 




and receiver-general of the state, and 
treasurer of Lawrence Mills. He occupied 
the municipal chair of Salem on his eight- 
ieth birthday. 

Benjamin Peirce (1809-1880), pro- 
fessor of mathematics in Harvard college 
was born in the Tontine Block, 29-35 War- 
ren street, which was destroyed in the great 
fire of 1914. He was among the most em- 
inent men of science in his day and was 
at the head of the United States coast sur- 
vey when he established the meridians 
which regulate and control the standard 
time of the continent. The late Lincoln 
Flagg Brigham, chief- justice of the superior court, resided at No. 29 
Warren street. 

Sir William Pepperrell (1696-1759), the captor of the Louis- 
burg, was given a dinner July 4, 1746, in the old Town House. 

Rev. Hugh Peter (1599-1660), the successor of Roger Williams, 
as pastor of the church in Salem, lived in the ancient house, that early 
occupied the site of the present Price block, where the street car 
office is now located. He came here in 1636; became much interest- 
ed in the development of the business and commerce of the colony, 
promoting the building of vessels, etc., and in 1641 went to England 
in behalf of those interests, becoming involved with Oliver Crom- 
well in the fight for the Commonwealth, and upon the Restoration 
was charged as an accessory in causing the death of the King was 
executed at Charing Cross, Oct. 13, 1660, beheaded, drawn and 
quartered, and liis head placed on a pole on London bridge. 

John Pickering, LL. D. (1777-1846). the Greek lexicographer 
and famous linguist, lived at 18 Chestnut street, and died in Boston, 
where he was city solicitor. He was a son of Col. Timothy Picker- 
ing. This house was also the residence of Nathaniel Hawthorne in 
1846. 



PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 



185 




He died at 29 Warren 



Col. Timothy Pickering (1745-1829) 
was born in the Pickering house 18 Broad 
street. He was the most illustrous member 
of the family, and among the most conspic- 
uous men of Revolutionary times. He was 
a colonel and adjutant-general, and prom- 
inent among the doughty men who held 
the pass at North Bridge. He fought at 
the battles of Germantown and Brandy- 
wine ; while as statesman he held the offi- 
ces of representative and senator, and in 
Washington's cabinet, at diiferent times, of 
postmaster-general, secretary of war, and 
secretary of state. Both his father and 
son John we're also persons of distinction, 
street, in the "Tontine Block" which was destroyed in 1914 in the 
great fire. 

President Franklin Pierce (1804-1869) on several occasions was 
entertained by Hon. George B. T.oring at his home 328 Essex street. 

President James K. Polk (1795-1849) passed through Salem, 
July 5, 1347, during a pouring rain, but did not leave his carriage 
to visit places of interest. 

Gov. Thomas Pownall (1720-1805) visited Salem Oct. 22, 1757 
and was entertained at the Benjamin Pickman house, 165 Essex 
street. 

Prof. Frederick W. Putnam (1839-1915), the first director of 
the Peabody Museum, Salem ; eminent archaeologist, naturalist, and 
museum director, was born at 99 Federal street. 

Hon. Nathan Read (1759-1849), member of Congress and in- 
ventor of a paddle wheel steamboat successfully tested on Danvers 
river in 1789, lived in a house formerly occuping the site of the 
Museum Building of the Essex Institute. He also built the first 
iron works at Waters river, Danvers, and invented machinery for 
cutting nails and there produced the first cut nails. A working model 



186 visitor's guide T(3 SALEM 

of his nail cutting machine is in the museum of the Essex Institute. 

John Rogers (1829-1906), sculptor, whose character "groups" 
are everywhere familiar, was horn in the Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse 
house that formerly stood (until 1915) on the site of the present 
Masonic Temple. 

President Theodore Roosevelt (1858- ), during the politi- 
cal campaign of 1912 from an automobile addressed an audience in 
Town House square. 

Hon. Leverett Saltonstall (1783-1845), first mayor of Salem 
(1836), and subsequently a member of Congress, lived at 41 Chest- 
nut street. 

Samuel Shattuck (1620-1689), the Quaker, lived at 185 Essex 
street. He was repeatedlv fined and in^prisoned, and finally banished 
for his religious opinions in 1660 (?). On leaving his home, and 
family and property, he sailed to England, had an audience with 
King Charles II., and obtained an order that the extreme measures 
taken against the Friends be at an end. He returned, and stopped 
the cruelties of the colonial authorities. 

Gen. William T. Sherman (1820-1891) was entertained by 
Judge Endicott in 1890. at his residence, 365. Essex street. 

Hon. Nathaniel Silsbee (1773-1850), United States senator 
from 1826 to 1835, was born at 69 Essex street, and lived for some 
years in the house 2 7 and 29 Daniels street. He subsequentlv lived 
at 94 Washington Square, East, which he built. Now greatly 
changed in appearance it is occupied by the Knights of Colum- 
bus. President Monroe was entertained here Julv 9, 1817 ; and at a 
later date Senators Henry Clav and Daniel Webster. 

Rev. Samuel Skelton (1584-1634), the first pastor of the church 
in Salem, lived at what is now 14 Front street. 

Justice Joseph Story (1779-1845) lived at 26 Winter street in 
a house built by him in 181 1. Here, Feb. 12, 1819, \tas born his son, 
William Wetmore Story, the noted author and sculptor. The cradle 
of Joseph and William W. Story is now at the Institute. General 
Fafayette was entertained here by Judge Story, Aug. 31, 1824. 

Judge Story seems to have had an office, when he first came to 



PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 



187 




Salem from Marblehead, on the second floor of 
a wooden building on the lot now occupied by 
the Shepard Block, corner of North and Essex 
streets. He also once had an office on Wash- 
ington street, near Lynde. Finally he built a 
wooden office on the western side of his Winter 
street residence, on land now occupied by 
Charles Odell, and when the Story estate passed 
into other hands, this office was removed to 
Norman street, where it was used as an office 
by Dr. Benjamin Cox, and thence to Creek 
street, where it now stands, converted into a 
dwelling. 

President William H. Taft (1857- ) spent the summers of 
1910-1912 at Beverly and frequently passed through the streets of 
Salem in his automobile. On Oct. 4, 1912 he unveiled the bronze 
tablet at the Essex Institute in memory of the officers and men of 
1st Heavy Artillery, Mass. Vols., who served in the Civil War, and 
March 28, 1916 he delivered an address in Ames Memorial Hall. 

Benjamin Thompson, later Count Rumford (1753-1814), was 
a clerk in a store at 314 Essex street, in 1766. He was born in Wo- 
burn and removed to Salem, where he was employed in the shop of 
John Appleton. The Essex Institute has a shop-bill, receipted for 
Mr. Appleton, with Thompson's signature. He served in the British 
army during the latter part of the Revolutionary War, went to Ba- 
varia, and in time became commander-in-chief of the Bavarian army, 
and was made Count Rumford. He was also eminent in science and 
as an author. A colossal statue to his memory ornaments one of the 
avenues in the city of Munich. Rumford ovens, invented by him, are 
to be found in many of the larger of the old Salem houses where even 
now t!iey are sometimes used. 

Rev/Charles W. Upham (1802-1875), mayor of Salem, mem- 
ber of Congress and author of the standard work on "Salem Witch- 
craft", lived at 313 Essex street. 

Rev. Jones Very (1813-1880) lived and died at 154 Federal 
street. His noems. first collected and niililished bv Ralnh Waldo 



188 visitor's guide to salem 

Emerson and later by James Freeman Clarke, William Page An- 
drews and the sisters of Mr. Very, have elicited commendations from 
Dr. Channing, the elder Dana, Bryant, Hawthorne, and G. W. Cur- 
tis. 

Gen. Frederick T. Ward (1831-1862) lived during his child- 
hood at 96 Derby street, in the house of his grandfather Townsend. 
The life of General Ward was romantic and adventurous. He ob- 
tained his title by organizing and drilling Chinese troops, which, 
under his leadership, had such a success during the Tai Ping rebel- 
lion that they came to be known as "the ever-victorious army." After 
his death a temple was dedicated to him, and, by Imperial mandate, 
he was worshipped as a deity. The English General Gordon was ap- 
pointed to succeed him. At the Essex Institute is a memorial library 
(over 3000 volumes) of books relating to China and the Chinese, to- 
gether with personal relics of Ward and his Chinese wife, and the 
bullet by Avhich he died in battle. 

George Washington (1732-1799) was presented to the towns- 
people on the occasion of his visit to Salem, Oct. 29, 1789 from the 
balcony of the Town and Court House which formerly stood in the 
center of what is now Washington street, nearly opposite the present 
Tabernacle church. He entered the town from Marblehead, passing 
from Lafayette street, then a rural lane with gates across it, through 
Mill, High and Summer streets to upper Federal street, and thence 
down Federal, reviewing the military, he repaired to the court house. 
Here he stood on the balcony while odes were sung and welcomes 
tendered and the people shouted themselves hoarse. Senator Good- 
hue presented him the formal address. Here, too, his features were 
scanned by Mclntire who was seated at a window near by, and a 
profile bas-relief executed in wood, which for years adorned the fine 
architectural gateway at the western entrance of the Common, was 
the result of a sketch then made. This is now at the Essex Institute. 
I,ater the President called at the house of Major Saunders, who com- 
manded his body-guard, the cadets, and also at the Chase house, both 
in Federal street, and between seven and nine o'clock honored with 
his presence a ball at the Assembly house. There were guns and bells 
and flights of rockets, and the court house was illuminated. The 



PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 189 

President passed the night in the northeast chamber, second floor, of 
the mansion of Joshua Ward, now the Washington House, 148 Wash- 
ington street, a fine brick mansion house which was placed at his 
service by the family. He left for Beverly and the East in the morn- 
ing. In his famous diary he made this entry: "Between 7 and 8 
o'clock went to assembly, where there was at least a hundred hand- 
some and well-dressed ladies, ... a greater portion with much 
blacker hair than are usually seen in the Southern States." 

There is evidence that Washington, when a voung man, had been 
in Salem, on a visit to the Clark family, and perhaps also during 
the siege of Boston. 

Daniel Webster (1782-1852) frequently visited Salem in the 
course of his legal practice. In 1830 he was counsel in the famous 
White murder trial and on other occa.sions was entertained by Sena- 
tor Silsbee, 94 Washington Square, East. His son Col. Fletcher 
Webster, who was killed at the second battle of Bull Run, was mar- 
ried at 3 1 Washington square. 

Roger Williams (1599-1683), a successor of Mr. Higginson. 
lived in his house about midway between what is now the First 
Church and the street car office. He was a redoubtable champion of 
religious freedom, a man of such virile nature and persistency that 
banishment was adjudged necessary by the colonial magistrates. In 
a sick condition, Williams fled into the wilderness in the depth of 
winter to the wigwam of Massasoit at Plymouth where he remained 
for several months recovering from severe illness. He then went to 
what is now Rhode Island, secured a grant of territory, and founded 
a free state. 

Henry Winthrop (1608-1630), son of Governor Winthrop, is 
supposed to have been drowned near the North Bridge on July 2 
1630. He had arrived in the ship "Talbot," July 1, and was drowned 
the following day while crossing the North river to visit an Indian 
settlement or camp. 

John Woodbury, one of the old Planters, erected his homestead 
at what is now 218 Essex street. 

^Joseph E. Worcester (1784-1865), compiler of Worcester's 
Dictionary, at one time conducted a private school in a building' 



CHAPTER XIV. 

List of Portraits Exhibited in the Public Institutions 

IN Salem. 

(C. A.)— Cadet Armory; (C. E.)—City Hall; (Ct. H.)— Court House: 
(E. I.)— Essex Institute; (N. 8.)— State Normal School; (P. M.J— 
reahodji Museum; (P. L.) — Piihlic Lihrarij ; (R. MJ^Ropes Memorial; 
. (S. M. S.) — Salem Marine Societi/. 

Abbot, Rev. John Emery, 1793-1819, minister. North Church, 

Salem. Miniature bv Miss Goodrich. (E. I.) 

Abbot, Eev. John Emery, 1793-1819. Silhouette. (E. I.) 

Abbott, Gen. Stephen, 1749-1813, Revolutionary officer. By 

George Southward. (C A.) 

Adams. John Quincy, 1767-1848. Sixth President of the United 

States. ' (E. I.) 

Allen, Edward, 1735-1803, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) 

Allen, Edward, 1763-1845, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) 

Allen. John Fiske, 1806-1876, merchant of Salem. Miniature. (P. M.) 
Allen, John Fiske, 1806-1876. Miniature by George Newcomb, 

1829. ' ' (E. I.) 

Allen, Pickering Dodge, 1838-1863, as a child. By Charles Osgood (E. I.) 
Allen, Pickering Dodge, 1838-1863, soldier in Civil War, by Wm. 

Henry Furness. (E. I.) 

Appleton, Capt. William, 1765-1822. master mariner. (E. I.) 

Bancroft, Lieut. George C, 1837-1864. Killed in the Rebellion. (C. A.) 
Barnard, Rev. Edward, 1720-1774, minister at Haverhill. By 

Copley. (E. I.) 

Barnard, Capt. Edward. 1781-1858, master mariner. (8. M. S.) 

Barnard, Rev. Thomas, 1748-1776, minister. North Church, 

Salem. Bas-relief in wax. (E. I.) 

Barnard, Rev. Thomas, 1748-1776. Silhouettes (3). (E. I.) 

Barr, Capt. James, 1754-1848, master mariner. Painted at Leg- 
horn in 1806. (P. M.) 
Bayley, James, 1803-1852, merchant of Boston. By Chester 

Harding. (E. I.) 

(190) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 191 

Bayley, Samuel K., of Boston. Miniature, 1829. (3. I.) 

Becket, Capt. John, 1746-1804, master mariner. About 1820. (P. M.) 
Becket, Capt. John, Jr., 1776-1816, master mariner. Bv Horne- 

mann, 1808. " " (P. MJ 

Benson, Capt. Samuel. 1790-1862, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Bentlev, Rev. William, D. D., 1759-1819, minister. East church, 

Salem. (E. I.) 

Bentley, Eev. William, D. D., 1759-1819. Bv James Frothingham. (P. M.) 
Bentley, Rev. William, D. D. 1759-1819. Silhouettes (2). (E. I.) 

Bertram, John, 1796-1882. merchant and benefactor of Salem. 

By Frederick P. Vinton. (P. L.) 

Bertram, John, 1796-1882. By Edear Parker. (P. M.) 

Bertram, John, 1796-1882. Copy by Miss H. Frances Osborne 

after Edgar Parker. (E. I.) 

Biglow, William, 1773-1844, educator and author. Salem and 

Boston. Bas-relief in wax. (E. I.) 

Black Hawk, 1767-1838, noted Indian. (P. M.) 

Blake, George Harrison, 1848-1869. By Charles Osgood. 

(Blake Memorial Chapel, Harmo)!!/ Grove Cemetery) 
Blake, Adm. Robert, 1599-1657, British Admiral. * (P. M.) 

Bowditch, Joseph, 1757-1824, master mariner. Miniature. (E. I.J 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838, mathematician. Copy by Miss 

A. W. Woodbury after Charles Osgood. ' " (E. I.) 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Bv Charles Osgood. (8. M. S.) 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. By Charles Osgood. (P. M.) 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Porcelain bas-relief. (E. I.J 

Bradatreet, Gov. Simon, 1603-1697, Governor Mass. Bay Colony. 

C'opj^ of painting in Massachusetts Senate chamber. (E. I.J 

Bradstreet, Gov. Simon. 1603-1697, copy of the original in the 

State House. By Joseph De Camp. (C.H.J 

Bridges, Capt. Henry C, 1849, master mariner. (P. M.J 

Eriggs, CajDl. James Buffington, 1790-1857, master mariner. (P. M.J 
Brooks, Rev. Charles T., 1813-1S83, Unitarian minister, author. 

Bas-relief in plaster. (E. I.J 

Brown, Capt. William, 1769-1802, master mariner, lost on Cape 

Cod. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Brown, Capt. W^illiam, 1769-1802, master mariner. (P. M.J 

Brown, Capt. William, 1783-1833, master mariner. (P. M.J 

Brownell, Lieut. Francis E. The avenger of Col. Ellsworth, 

1861. By J. Harvey Young. (C.A.) 

Buffington, Capt. James, 17981881. master mariner. (P. 31.) 

Burrill, Capt. Josiah G., 1784-1832, master mariner. (P.M.) 

Cabot, Francis, 1757-1832, merchant of Salem and Natchez, 

Miss. (E. I.J 



192 visitor's guide to salem 

Cabot, Joseph S., 1796-1874, merchant of Salem. Silhouette. (E.I.) 
Cabot, Mrs. Margaret (Orne), m.'1702, wife of John Cabot. (E.I.) 
Carlton, Capt. John, U. S. Naval officer, member of E. I. ^I. 

Soc. in 1807. Miniature by Verstile. (E. I.) 

C'arnes, Capt. John, 1755-1796, master mariner. (E. I.) 

Carpenter, Mrs. Abigail (Gerrish), 1743 , wife of Capt. 

Benjamin Carpenter. (E, I.) 

Carpenter, Capt. Benjamin, 1751-1823, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Carwick, Capt. Henry, 1758-1816, master mariner. (E. I.) 

Checkley, Dr. Richard, 1694-1742, Boston apothecary and phy- 
sician. (E. I.) 

Checkley, Mrs. Sarah (Walley), 1695 , wife of Dr. Eich- 

ard Checkley. (E. I.) 

Chever, Edward E., 1828-1905, California pioneer. By J. Harri- 
son Mills. (E. I.) 
Choate, George Francis, 1822-1888, Judge of Probate. By Fred- 
eric P. Vinton. (Ct.E.) 
Choate, Rufus, 1799-1859, jurist, U. S. Senator. By Joseph 

Ames. (Ct. II.) 

Clark, Maj. John Gedney, 1737-1784, British Army Officer. Min- 
iature by A. Mauvais. (E. I.) 
Clark, Maj. John Gedney, 1737-1784. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Clarke, Mrs. Deborah (Gedney), 1677 -, wife of Francis 

Clarke, maternal grandmother of Lord Bryan Fairfax. 
By Smibert. " (E. I.) 

Clarke, Rev. John, 1755-1798, minister, First Church, Boston. 

By Henry Sargent. (E. I.) 

Cleveland, Mrs. Elizabeth (Hodges), 1789-1834, wife of George. 

Silhouette. (P. M.) 

Cleveland, George, 1781-1840, merchant of Salem. Silhouette. (P. M.) 
Cleveland, George William, 1812-1848, merchant of Salem. By 

J. Metzer, Antwerp, 1835. (P. M.) 

Cleveland, Cajit. William, 1777-1842, master mariner. By St. 

Memin. (P.M.) 

Cole, Thomas, 1779-1852, teacher and scientist. By Charles 

Osgood. (E. I.) 

Cook, Capt. James, 1728-1772, navigator and discoverer. By 

Corne, 1803. ' (P. M.) 

Cook, Capt. Samuel, 1769-1861, master mariner. Silhouette. (E. I.) 

Cromwell, Oliver, 1599-1658, An old portrait. By Sir Peter 

Lely? (E.I.) 

Crosby, Alpheus, 1810-1874, educator. By E. T. Billings. (N.S.) 

Crosby, Mrs. Martha (Kingman), 1833-1915. educator. By E. T. 

Billings. (N.8.) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 193 

Crowninshieid, Capt. Benjamin, 1758-1836, master mariner. 

By Miss Alary Giilliver, after a miniature. (P. M.) 

Crowninshieid, Jacob, 1770-1808, merchant of Salem, M. C. 

By Robert Hinckley, after a miniature. (P. M.) 

Curwen, Capt. George, 1610-1685, merchant of Salem. (E. I.) 

Cnrwen, Eev. George, 1683-1717. minister First Church, Salem. (E.l.) 

Curwen, George Rea, 1823-1900. antiqviarian. By Charles Os- 
good, 1860. (E.I.) 

Curwen, Mrs. Priscillu (Barr), 1788-1863, mother of George 

E. Curwen. By Charles Osg-ood, 1849. (E.I.) 

Curwen. Judg-e Samuel, 1715-1802." By Blyth, 1772. (E. I.) 

Curwen, Judge Samuel, 1715-1802. Silhouette, London, 1786. (E.I.i 

Curwen, Mrs. Sarah (Pickman), 1718-1810, wife of George 

Curwen. (E. I.) 

Curwen, Aliss Sarah, 1742-1773, daughter of the last named. 

Pastel bv Blvth, 1772. (E. I.) 

Gushing, Caleb. 1800-1879, jurist and diplomat. (Ct. H.) 

Cushing, Thomas, 1725-1788, leader in Eevolutionary War and. 
Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts. By Joseph 
Badger. (E. I.) 

Cutler, Eev. Alanasseh, 1742-1823, minister, member of C'on- 

gress,- and scientist. Bv Lakeman. (E. I.) 

Cutler, Eev. Manasseh, 1742-1823. Copy by Miss A. W. Wood- 
bury after Lakeman. (E. I.) 

Dabney, John, 1752-1819, postmaster of Salem for many years. 

Aliniature by Verstille, 1809. (E. I.) 

Dabney, Jonathan Peele, 1793-1868, Unitarian minister. Pastel 

At the age of thirteen. (E. I.) 

r>alton, Lt. Col. J. l-'rank, Commander Salem Cadets. By 

Charles C. Eedmond. _ (G. A.) 

Dalton, Adj. Gen. Samuel C, Commander Salem Cadets. By 

Charles C. Eedmond. (0. A.) 

Dane, Nathan, 1752.-1835, member of Congress and jurist. Copy 

of the portrait in Dane Hall, Cambridge, By Mrs. David. (E. I.) 

Derby, Elias Hasket, 1739-1799, merchant of Salem. By James 

"^ Frothingham. ' (P. M.) 

Derby, Ezekiel Hersey, 1772-1852, merchant of Salem. By 

Charles Osgood." (E.I.) 

Derby, Mrs. Hannah Browne, 1777-1862, wife of the last 

named. (E. I.) 

Derby, Capt. John, 3rd, 1788-1829, master mariner. Pastel 

made in Holland. (E. I.) 

Derby, Richard, 1712-1783, merchant. Copy by George South- 
ward. (E. I.) 



194 visitor's guide to salem 

Dodge, Israel, 1740-1822, merchant of Salem. By James Froth- 

ingham. , " (e. I,) 

Dodge, Pickering, 1778-1833, merchant of Salem. By George 

Southward after James Frothingham. (P, M.J 

Dutch, Daniel, 1765-1851, deputy sheriff. Silhouette. (E.I.J 

Eagleston, Capt. John Henry, "1803-1884, master mariner. By 

Charles Osgood. (p_ j\j.) 

Elkins, Cajjt. Henry, 1761-1836, master mariner. By Hirsch- 

mann, Holland, 1791. ' (P.M.) 

Emery, Capt. No.ih, , master mariner. Silhouette. (P. M.) 

Endecott, Gov. John, 1589-1665. Governor of Massachusetts 

Bay Colony. Copy of the portrait in the Council Cham- 
ber, Boston, by T. Mitchell. (E. I.J 
Endecott, Gov. John," 1589-1665. Copy of the jjortrait in posses- 
sion of the family. By James Frothingham. (E. I.) 
Endecott, Gov. John. 1589-1665. Copy of the portrait in jiosses- 

sion of the family. By George Southward. (C.H.) 

Endicott, Judge William Crowninshield, 1826-1900, jurist and 

cabinet officer. C'opv by Robert Hincklev. (Ct. H.J 

Ellsworth, Col. Elmer E.,' 1837-1861. Shot at Alexandria, Va. 

By J. Harvey Young. (C.A.I 

Felt, EeV. Joseph F.. 1789-1869, minister, historian. By Edgar 

Parker. ' (p^ E.J 

Fenno, John Woodbridge, 1792-1859. By Charles Osgood after 

Chester Harding. ' (E.I.) 

Fettyplace, William, 1780-1867, merchant of Salem. By Charles 

Osgood. ' (p, M.J 

Fisher, Dr. Joshua, 1749-1833, physician in Beverly. (E. I.J 

Fiske, Capt. John Brown, 1804-1881, master mariner. By B. 

C. Schiller, 1846. ' (p, M.J 

Fiske, Mrs. Lydia Phippen, 1732, wife of Gen. John 

Fiske. Pastel. (E. I.J 

Fitch, Timothy, 1725-1790, merchant of Boston. By Copley, 

about 1765. ' ,' (E.I.J 

Fitch, Mrs. Eunice (Browne), 1731-1799, wife of the last 

named. By Copley, about .1765. • (E.I.) 

Forrester, Mrs. 'Charlotte (Story) 1788-1867, wife of John 

Forrester. By Stuart. (E. I. ) 

Forrester, Miss Louisa, 1825. By Eliza Dodge Devereux, 1896 (E. I.) 
Forrester, Mi's. Rachel (Hathorne), 1757-1823, wife of Simon 

Forrester. B3' James Frothingham. 1822. (E. I.J 

Forrester, Simon, 1748-1817, merchant of Salem. (E.I.J 

Forrester, Thomas Hely, 1790-1830. By James Frothingham. (E.I.J 

Forrester Children. By James Frothingham, 1822. (E. I.J 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 195 

Porrestier, Augustine, 17S8-1845 to '47, merchant in East In- 
dies ; died at Batavia, Java. (E. I.) 
Foster, Maj. Samuel B., 1821-1872, Commander Salem Cadets. 

By J. Harvey Yonng. (C. A.) 

Fowler, Samuel Page, 1810-1888, antiquarian. Silhouette. (E.I.) 

Frazar, Amherst Alden, 1802-1876, merchant of Boston. By 

^• an der Borght, Antwerp. (E. I.) 

Frazar, Mrs. Sarah Drew (Bradford), 1805-1868, wife of Am- 
herst A. Frazar. By Henry C. Pratt. (E. I.) 
Frye, Col. Peter, 1723-1820, registrar of Probate, loyalist. 

Pastel by S. P. Cutts, 1851. (E. I.) 

Gale, Capt. Samuel, 1783-1829, master mariner. Painted 

about 1820. (P.M.) 

Gallop, Capt. John Lovett, 1811 , master mariner of Bev- 
erly. (P. M.) 
Gerrish, Benjamin, 1714-1752, merchant, Governor of Barbados. 

By Greenwood. • (E. I.) 

Gerrish, Mrs. Margaret (Cabot), 1713-1787, wife of Governor 

Gerrish. By Greenwood. (E. I.) 

Gerr3% Nathaniel, 1783-1835. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Gibaut, John, 1768-1805, master mai'iuer, collector of the port 

of Gloucester. Pastel by Coles. At the age of fourteen. (E. I.) 
Gillis, Capt. James Dunlap, 1798-1835, master mariner. By K. 

T. Furness. 1909, after F. de Brackeleer, Antwerp, 1826. (P. M.) 
Goodhue, Benjamin, 1748-1814, first M. C. Essex Dist. ; U. S. 

Senator. Southward after J. Wright. (E. I.) 

Goodhiie, Jonathan, 1783-1848, merchant in New York. (E.I.) 

Goodridge, Ann Afaria, d. before 1848. (E. I.) 

Goodridge, William, d. before 1848. (E.I.) 

Gray, William, 1750-1825, merchant of Salem, Lt. Gov. of Mass. 

After Stuart. (P. U.) 

Green, George, music master, of Antigua, W. I. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Griswold, Rt. Pvev. Alexander V. 1766-1843; Bishop. Eector of 

St. Peter's church, Salem. Silhouette. (E.I.) 

Hagar. Daniel Barnard, 1820-1896, educator. By C. S. Parker. CN. S.) 
Hamilton, Alexander, 1757-1804; first Secretary of the U. S. 

Treasury. By Trumbull. ' (E.I.) 

Hamilton, Alexander, 1757-1804. Bas-relief. Salem, 1805. (E.I.) 

Haradon, Capt. Jonathan, 1745-1803, master mariner and priv- 

ateersman. By George Furse, Leghorn, 1807. (P. M.) 

Harrison. Gen. William Henrj-, 1773-1841. Ninth President of 

the United States. By Abel Nichols. (E. I.) 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864, novelist. By Miss H. Frances 

Osborne, after photograph. (E. I.) 



196 



visitor's guide to SALEM 



Hayman, William, 1817-1855. By A H Biokmpll 

^'''"^:^l^:n ""^^^^^ -i^tSr^lS e,uu.el. sale.. ^'^ '' 

™' ^ W:^;;- i^--- ,^1-- -.niste. naverMH ^^^ ^'^ 
HiHer, Maj. Joseph, 1748-1814 Kh^^^^^^^ ^^ , (E.I.) 

collector of the port of Salem ^'^ °^'"^' ^"^^ ^^^^ 

fmt: Sept7i^iss:fitat^s^i*^^^^^ ^^-^- ^-'-«- ^- '; 
""^^.^n^?;;-^ ^--nr.s^-^s:v. ..o^ Hitch. ^^-^-^ 

^7^^h?S^Sr^ar^^-r - Beverly, ehaplain ^^^ ^"^ 
Hodges, ^Capt. Benjamin, 1754-1806, master mariner. Silhou- '^^ ''^ 

Hodg-es, Mrs. Elizabeth (Eopes) 1764 184n ,,r•^^ ^-r (P.M.) 

Hbdoes. Silhouette ^' ^'^^"^^^0, wife of Jonathan 

Hodg-es, George A., merchant of Salem Silhonett. ^^- ^^■ 

Hodges, Mrs. Hannah King- —Z ^.J'^''?"^"'^; ^ . (E.I.> 

Silhouette. ^ ' ^'^® °^ Capt. Benjamin. 

Hodges, Capt. Jonathan I7fi4 isq-? ^ . (P.M.) 

Hoffman, cipt. ChSeT\797;i878 „?^^^^^^ "'^""'^■- S^l^o^^ette. P. ^ j 
Osgood. ^^' "^^«ter mariner. By Charles 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus 172S iSoo v, •• (P.M.) 

James Frothingham 1728-1829, physician. By 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, 1728-1829 ^^- ^'^ 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Au^stus 1728 1890 q-ii .. (E- I> 

Holyoke, Mrs. Elizabeth (Towne) I6lll7l9^w^?r^\ ., ^^- ^> 

M-ard Holvoke PresirIPT.+ i v \^ A ^"® ^^ ^^v. Ed- 
Hopkins, Rev. Dlntel I73 4 ?8 1 4 l' ^.'^''''^ ^°"^^^- (J^. I ) 
Holland, John, of iniItitgy'\?oSi?e 'S ^^^^I^^.S-le-- (J^- D 
Hubbard,^Dr. Oliver, 1770-f8l9.'^SlS;.e^°bf Tn'na aTelTe" '^^ '"^ 

'"'^^1oAth^wT?d^ '°"^°^^^'' ^«^^-^«^^' ^--^- By George '^^ ^"^ 

''''' 'j.^Smord'^'^^^'' ^^'^-^^^^' —«"- -t law. By John '^^ ''^ 
Jackson President Andrew, 1767-1845 Bv Mai P V w r^ . rC*^. F.^ 
Jayne, John, Salem schoolmaster. S ilh?uft?e Earle.•rr^ /7.; 

Keith, Lord James, Lord Marshal of c;!!r:+io J ,.. (^-I-) 

iature iviarsnal ot Scotland, 1696-1758. Min- 

|!nf; |S: S-- '-t'/stl: r^ raSSJ; »"'-"- r- ■■> 

King, Mrs. Henry. Miniature manner. ^p ^^ 

r^. I.) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 197 

King, Capt. Henry Franklin, 1811-1888, master mariner. By 

Charles Osgood. (P. M.) 

King, James Bailey, 1808-1865. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) 

King, John Glen, 1787-1857, lawyer. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) 

King, John Glen, 1787-1857. Copy by Frank W. Benson after 

Charles Osgood. (G. H.) 

King, Capt. Kobert Watts, 1814-1840, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Kirkland, Eev. John T., 1770-1840. President of Harvard Col- 
lege, 1810-1828. (E.I.) 
Kittredge, Abner, 1807-1884. By T. B. Lawson, 1880. (E. I.) 
Kittredge, Mrs. Ann M. (Towne), 1817-1899, wife of Abner 

Kittredge. By T. B. Lawson, 1885. (E. I.) 

Kittredge, Henry A., 1843 , as a child. By T. B. Lawson, 

1855. (E. I.) 

Knight, John Buttolph, 1803 , custom house official. 

Miniature. (E. I.) 

Lafayette, Marquis de. Copy by Osgood after S. F. B. Moi'se. (C. H.) 

Lambert, Jonathan, . Miniature. (E. I.) 

Lambert, Samuel, . Miniature. (E.I.) 

Lamson, Asa, Jr. . Silhouette. (E. I.) 

Lander, Capt. William, 1788-1834, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Lang, Daniel, 1784-1826. Bas-relief in wax by Kauschner, 

Salem, 1810. (E. I.) 

Lang, Mrs. Dolly, 1784-1867. Bas-relief in wax by Rauschner, 

Salem, 1810. (E.I.) 

Lang, Hannah, 1782-1845. Bas-relief in wax bv Eavischner, 

Salem, 1810. " (E. I.) 

Lang, Nathaniel, 1757-1824. Bas-relief in wax by Rauschner, 

Salem, 1810. (E.I.) 

Lang, Nathaniel, Jr., 1780-1851. Bas-relief in wax by Rausch- 
ner, Salem, 1810. (E.I.) 
Leavitt, Capt. Henry, 1803-1830, master mariner. (E.I.) 
Lee, Mrs. Harriet Paine (Rose), 1804-1885, wife of John C. 

Lee. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Lee, John C, 1804-1877, banker. Silhouette. (E. I.) 

Lee, Col. William R., 1745-1824, Revolutionary officer. Minia- 
ture by Hancock, 1805. " (E. I.) 

Lefavour, Capt. Joseph, 1853, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Le Mercier, Rev. Andrew, 1692-1764, minister in Boston. An 
old portrait, inscribed "in Christo vita est moriar Mer- 
cerus in Illo." By Greenwood. (E. I.) 

Lendholm, Capt. Frederick, 1820-1863, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Lendholm, Mrs. Rebecca M., 1819-1872, wife of Capt. Frederick. (P.M.) 
Leverett, Sir John, 1616-1679, Governor of Massachusetts Bay 

Colony. An old portrait, attributed to Sir Peter Lely. (E. I.) 



198 visitor's guide to salem . 

Lincoln, Abraham, 1809-1865, Copy of the bust by Volk. 

(Custom House) 
Lord, Judoe Otis Phillips, 1812-1884, jurist. 13y Frederick P. 

Vinton. (Ct. H.) 

Loring, Mrs. Mary T. (Pickman), 1816-1878, wife of Gen. 

Georg-e E. Loring. (E. I.) 

Lovett, Augustus, 1812-1860, of Beverly. (E.I.) 

LoAV, Abiel Abbot, 1811-1893. merchant and philanthropist. 

By Piatt P. Eyder. (C. H.) 

Lynde, Mrs. Mary, 1679-1753, wife of Chief Justice Benjamin 

Lynde. (E. I.) 

Mack, Elisha, 1783-1852, first judge of Salem Police Court. 

By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) 

Mack, Miss Esther, daughter of the last named. Silhouette. (E. I.) 

Mack, Mrs. Harriet, 1792-1848, wife of Judge Elisha Mack. 

By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) 

Mack, Miss Harriet O., daughter of the last named. Silhouette. (E. I.) 
Madison, Mr.s. Dolly P., 1772-1849. Crayon portrait presented 

by her to Daniel Webster. (E. I.) 

McLean, C'apt. Hugh, 1770 , master mariner. Painted 

at Palermo, 1809. (P. M.) 

Mann, Horace, 1796-1859, educator. By J. Harvey Young. (N. 8.) 

Mansfield, C'apt. Charles, 1801-1868, master mariner. Silhouette. (P. M.) 
Martineau, Harriet, 1802-1876, Eng-lish authoress. By Charles 

Osgood. (E. I.) 

Mason, David, 1726-1794, Revohitionary officer. Dej)osited by 

Hon. David Mason Little. (E.I.) 

Mason, Thomas, merchant. Pastel. (E. I.) 

Matchford, Sarah, . Silhouette. (E.I.) 

Morse, Prof. Edward Sylvester, 1838 . By Frank W. 

Benson, 1913. (P.M.) 

Moseley, Ebenezer, 1781-1854, counsellor at law. By Miss Wil- 
liams. (Ct. H.) 
Moulton, Henry P., 1844-1904, counsellor at law. By Frank W. 

Benson. "^ (Ct. H.) 

Moulton, Mrs. Oljive O. . Silhouette, 1850. (E. I.) 

Mudge, William P., 1863, killed at Lookout Moimtain. (C. A.) 

Mugford, Capt. William, 1762-1840, master mariner. (P.M.) 

Neal, Nathan Ward, 1797-1850, merchant of Salem. By Fran- 
cis Alexander. (P. M.) 
Nelson, Lord Horatio, 1758-1805, English admiral. (E. I.) 
Nichols, Dr. Andrew, 1785-1853, physician at Danvers ; first 

President Essex County Natural History Society. By 

Miss Sarah Nichols. (E. I.) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 199 

Oliver, Dr. B. Lynde, 1788-1843, lawyer and author. Silhouette. (E.I.) 
Oliver, Gen. Henry K., 1800-1885, composer, mayor of Salem. 

By Adelaide Cole. ' (('. H.) 

Oliver, Gen. Henry K., 1800-1885. (E. I.) 
Oliver, Mrs. Sarah (Cook), 1801-1866, wife of Gen. Henry K. 

Oliver. (E. I.) 

Oliver, William Gardner, 1809-1828.. mariner. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Orne, Charles Henry, 1788-1816. Silhouette. (R.M.) 
Orne, Elizabeth Ropes, 1818-1842, aged 3 years. By James 

Frothing-ham. Also at 21 years by Chai'les Osgood. (R. M.) 

Orne, Joseph. Silhouettes (2) (E.I.) 

Orne, Joseph, 1796-1818. By Abel Nichols. (R. M.) 

Orne, Joseph, 1796-1818. Silhouette. (R.M.) 

Orne, Caj^t. Joseph, 1806, master mariner, murdered at 

Mocha. Miniatures (2) (E.I.) 

Orne, Mrs. Dr. Joseph. Pencil sketch by IMiss Sally Allen. (E. I.) 

Orne, Josiah, 1768-1825, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) 
Orne, Mrs. Sally Fiske (Eopes). 1795-1876, wife of Joseph 

Orne. By Abel Nichols. (R. M.) 
Orne, JSIrs. Sally Fiske (Itopes), 1795-1876. Silhouette. (R.M.) 
Orne, William, 1752-1815, merchant of Salem. By Charles Os- 
good (?) after Stuart. (R.M.) 
Orne, William, 1753-1815, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) 
Orne, W^illiam, 1752-1815, merchant of Salem. By Charles 

Osgood after Stuart. " (E.I.) 
Page, Samuel, 1778-1834, master mariner. (8. M. S.) 
Paine, Mrs. Ann C. (Sturgis), 1797-1892, wife of William 

Paine. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) 

Paine, Mrs. Frederick W., 1797-1892. By Cliarles Osgood. (E. I.) 

Paul I., Emperor of Biissia, 1754-1801. Painted in Russia. (E. I.) 

Peabody, Capt. Brackley Rose, 1798-1874, master mariner. (P. M.) 
Peabody, Francis, 1801-1867, merchant of Salem. By Miss 

Francis Chamberlain after Richard ^SI. Stagg. (P. M.) 
Peabody, Georg-e, 1795-1869, philanthropist. By A. Bertram 

Schell, 1869. (E. I.) 
Peabody, George, 1795-1869, philanthropist. By A. Bertram 

Schell, 1869. ' (P. M.) 
Peabody, Joseph, 1757-1844, merchant of Salem. By Charles 

Osgood. ■ (P. M.) 
Peabody, Joseph, 1757-1844, merchant of Salem. Silhouette. (E.I.) 
Pepperrell, Sir William, 1696-1759, naerchant, captor of Louis- 
burg, 1745. (E.I.) 
Pepperrell, Sir William, 1746-1816, grandson of the last 

named. Medallion. . (E: I.) 



■^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM 

"^^''^''liw'^"*^^^ Jonathan Cogswell, 1809-1877, counselor at ' 

Perry, Rev. Gardner B., 1783-1859, minister at Groveland ^^^'^'^ 

naturalist. By Chester Harding. ^io%eiand, 

Philhps Stephen C, 1801-1857, merchant and second mayor ^ ^^ 

of Salem. By Georg-e Southward. ^ /r, r , 

Phipps Capt John Adams, 1803-1866, master mariner rPM) 

Pickermg, Timothy, 1745-1829, Revolutionary officer member ^ ^^ 

of Washington's Cabinet, etc. By N. Lakeman isoe /p r , 

Pickering, Timothy, 1745-1829. Miniature. ■^^^^™^"' ^^^^^ ^f • f • 

p;nS^"' ?«"-^"^i"' 1708-1773, merchant. Bv Greenwood. (EI) 
Pickman, Benjamin, 1763-1843, merchant of Salem. Bas relief 

in wax. ^'Tiit-x 

Pickman, Benjamin, 1763-1843. Salem merchant and member ^^'^'^ 

ot Congress. /p r i 

Pickman, Benjamin, 1790-1835. Silhouette. li' / 

Piclvman, Dudley Leavitt, 1779-1846, merchant of Salem By 

A. Hartwell after Cliester Harding. ^ /p .f i 

Pickman Dudley Leavitt, 1779-1846. Silhouette. p' Ml 

Poole, William F., LL. D., 1821-1894, librarian and author. ^^ 

By Thorpe. /w T ) 

Poore, Dr. Alfred, 1818-1907, genealogist. [%' }' ] 

Pratt, Capt. Joseph, 1745-1832, master mariner. By Henry 

C. Pratt. . ' ' /P If 

Prescott, William Hinckling. 1796-1859, historian Bv J Har 

vey Young. ' • * /at c i 

Preston, Capt. Joseph, 1780-1850, master mariner Bv Ver- ' '' 

voort, ]820. • ' /p ,r , 

Prince, Rev John. 1751-1836, minister. First church, Salem. (EI) 
Putnam, Allen. 1794-1868. merchant of Salem /p 'll ) 

Putnam, Gen Israel. 1718-1790, Revolutionary" soldier. (EI) 

Putnam, Perley, 1778-1864. By Charles Osgood fE T ) 

Putnam, Samuel, 1768-1853. Jiidge of Supreme Judicial Court 
T> T, 3'^^-^- ^^' ^- ^- Lazarius after Chester Harding. (Cf H ) 

Pynehon, William, 1590-1662, "The Founder of Springffeld ■" ' '^ 

inscribed ^-QuU Pynehon, Armgi Effigies Delin, Anno 

Dom, 1657. Aetat. 67." rP T ) 

Read, Charles Albert, 1812-1882, benefactor of Salem. By J 

Harvey "ioung. ■ rn VT ) 

Rhue, Capt. Thomas, 1740-1815. master mariner. About 18'>0 rp' M ) 
Roberts, David. 1804-1879, thirteenth mayor of Salem liy ' 

George Southward. ' ''FT) 

Robinson, Miss Lydia. 1782-1870, daughter of Col. James Bob- " ' 

mson. Water color by Corne. " '(PI) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 201 

Eo^ei-s, Rev. John, 1666-1745, minister at Ipswich. By Smibert. (E.J.) 
TJog-ers, John Whiting-ham, 1786-1872, merchant of Salem. By 

Thomas Spear, 1872. ' (P.M.) 

Eog-ers. Nathaniel L., 1785-1858, merchant of Salem. (P.M.) 
Kogers, Iliehard Saltonstall, 1790-1873, merchant of Salem. 

By Robert Hinckley, 1888. (P. M.) 
Ropes, Abigail, 1796-1839. daughver of Nathaniel Ropes. By 

Charles Osgood. " (R. M.) 

Ropes, C'apt. Andrew, 1830-1910, master mariner. (P.M.) 
Ropes, David, 1739-1793, innl<eeper and merchant of Salem. 

Pastel. (E. I.) 
Ropes, David Augnistns, son of Capt. Joseph Ropes. Miniature. (E. I.) 
Ropes, Mrs. Elizabeth (Cleveland), 1757-1831, 2d wife Na- 
thaniel Ropes. Silhouette. (R. M.) 
Ropes, Mrs. Hannah (Haraden), 1768-1845, wife of John 

Ropes. By Abel Nichols. (E. I.) 

Ropes, Hannah, 1791-1862, daughter of the last named. (E.I.) 

Ropes, John Titcomb, 1810-1879. Miniature. (E.I.) 

Ropes, Jonathan, 1718-1799, merchant of Salem. Miniature. (E.I.) 
Ropes, Mrs. Lucinda (Whij)ple), 1831-1906, wife of Charles A. 

Ropes. (E. I.) 

Ropes, Nathaniel, 1759-1806. Silhouette. (R. M .) 

Ropes, Nathaniel, 1793-1885, merchant of Cincinnati. (R. M.) 

Ropes, Nathaniel, 1833-1893. (R. M.) 

Ropes, Nathaniel. 1833-1893. (E. I.j 
Ropes, Mrs. Priscilla (Webb), 1741-1831, wife of David Ropes. 

Pastel. (E. I.) 
Ropes, Mrs. Sarah Evans (Brown), 1802-1873, wife of Nathaniel. (R. M.) 
Rose, Mrs. Harriet (Paine), 1779-(860, of Antigua, W. I. Min- 
iature. (E. I.) 
Rose, Joseph W'arner, 1773-1826, of Antigua, W. I. Miniature. (E. I.) 

Rowe. Ebenezer, 1770 , of Gloucester. Miniature. (E.I.) 

Rowe, Theodore F., 1810 . Miniature. (E.I.) 

Rovall, Gen. Isaac, 1720-1781, loyalist, of Medford, Mass. Me- 
dallion. (E.I.) 
Eussell, Mrs. Abigail (Curwen), 1643-1709, wife of Hon. James 

Russell of Charlestown. (E. I.) 

Safford, Capt. Joshua, 1778-1843, master mariner. About 1835. (P. M.) 

Said bin Sultan, of Zanzibar. About 1860. (P. M.) 
Saltonstall, Leverett, 1783-1845, first mayor of Salem, M. C. 

By Charles Osgood. (E.I.) 
Saltonstall. Leverett. 1783-1845. Bv George Southward after 

Charles Osgood. " (Ct. H.) 

Saltonstall, Leverett, 1783-1845. Silhouette. (E. I.) 



(E. I.) 
(E. I.) 



-^2 visitor's guide to SALEM 

Saltonstall, Leverett, 1783-1845. By Charles Osgood. (C H > 

feaul, Joseph, . ^Miniature. ^/p j\ 

Saul, Capt. Thomas, 1787-1875, master mariner. /p 'i/i 

Saunders, Philip, 1774-1797, mariner. Miniature. (i / 

Scobie, Capt John J., , master mariner. About 1820 (P ' M ) 

bears, John Henry, 1843-1910, geologist and botanist. Bv I H 
Calio'a 19*^8 

Seaver. Capt. JosepJi H., 1896, master mariner. %' m\ 

Sewall Mrs. Margaret (Mitchell), 1736, wife of Maior ' 

Stephen. •' 

Sewall Airs. Margaret (^litchell), 1736. Copy of the 

above. * •' 

Sewall Chief Justice Samuel. 1652-1730. Copy of the portrait 

at Mass. Hist. Soc, Boston. CF T ) 

Sewall, Maj. Stephen, 1657-1725, clerk of witchcraft court An 

old portrait. ' {F J } 

Sewall, Maj. Stephen, 1657-1725. Copy of the above. (E. I. and ft 'h ) 
Sha^y Judge Lemuel. 1781-1861. By William ]\[. Hunt. (ci H ) 

Sheridan, Lt. Gen. Philip H., 1831-1888, soldier. By Charles C 

Kedmond. ' ff n ) 

SMllaber, Ebenezer. Miniature. /^ j\ 

Silsbee, Xathanie], 1773-1850, merchant of Salem. U. S Sena- ' 

tor. By A. Hartwell after Chester Harding. (p ir 

Sparhawk, Samuel, 1744 , son of Eev. John Sparhawk, Jr. 

Miniature by Copley, London, 1780. (e t ) 

Sparhawk, IVfrs. Susanna (Crampton). Miniature by Copley ' 

■ London, 1780. -^ (EI) 

Stone, John, 1781-1849, merchant of Salem. Silhouette (e' I ) 

Story, Augustus, 1812-1882, lawyer. Crayon /e t > 

Story, Elisha, M. D., 1743-1805, Physician of Marblehead. Min- ' 

lature by INIalbone. (El} 

Story, Mrs. Elizabeth (Marion), 1721-1748, wife of William ' 

Story. .^ J . 

Story, Joseph, 1779-1845. Silhouette by Augustus Edonard, 1842 (E I ) 
Story Joseph, 1779-1845, Justice U. S. Supreme Court. By 

Charles Osgood. ' (E J ) 

Story, Joseph, 1779-1845. Copy by DeCamp after Charles Os- ' 

g-ood. • (EI) 

Story, Mrs. Nancy (Blood), 1790-1845 (?), wife of Capt. John 

Story. (E T > 

Story, Capt. William, 1774-1861, master mariner. By Charles 

Osgood. -^ (EI) 

Story, Capt. William, 1774-1864, master mariner (p ' i\j ) 

Sturgis, Mrs. Elizabeth 0. P., 1826-1911. Painted in Boston in ' ^ 

^^^^- (E. I.) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 205 

Sutton, Gen. William, 1.S00-1S82, commander Salem Cadets. 

By J. Harvey Young-. (C. A.) 

Taylor, Mr. and Mrs. Nathan. Silhouettes. (E. I.J 
Taylor, Zachary, 1784-1850. Twelfth President of the ¥nited 

States. By F. Alexander, 1848. (E. I.J 

Toll Gatherer of Beverly bridge, name unknown. (E. I.j 

Townsend, Capt. Penn, 1772-1846, master mariner. Miniature. (E. I.J 
Townsend, Mrs. Mary (]\ichardson) , 1772-1824, wife of Capt. 

Penn Townsend. Miniature. (E. I.) 
Trask, Capt. Richard, 1788-1846, of Manchester, master mari- 
ner. Miniature jiainted in Russia. (E. I.} 
Treadwell, Dr. John D., 1768-1833, physician in Salem. Sil- 
houette. (E. I.J 
Tucker, Mrs. Esther Orne (Paine), 1774-1854, wife of Ichabod 

Tucker. JNliniature by Miss Goodrich. (E. I.} 
Tucker, Ichabod, 1765-1846, lawyer, clei'k of courts, Essex 

County. ' (E. I.) 
Tucker, Ichabod, 1765-1846, counselor at law. Silhouette. (E. I.J 
Tudor, Dr. Edward, 1771-1858. Pencil drawins^. (E. I.J 
Tudor, Mrs. Elizabeth G., 1791-1870. Pencil drawing-. (E. I.J 
Upham, Rev. Charles W., 1802-1875, minister of" the First 
church, seventh mayor of Salem, and author of "Salem 
Witchcraft." By Charles Osg-ood. (E. I. ) 
Upham, Rev. Charles W., 1802-1875. (E. I.J 
Upton, Capt. Charles, 1824-1865, master mariner. (P. M.J 
Vanderfoi'd, Capt. Benjamin, 1787-1843, master mariner. Sil- 
houette. (P. M.J 
Very, Capt. Jones, 1790-1824, master mariner. Pencil sketch 

made in Paris. (E. I.J 
Vespncci, Amerigo, 1451-1512, discoverer. (P. M.J 
Walch, Robert, Salem schoolmaster. Silhouette. (E. I.J 
Walker. Rev. Samuel, 1779-1826, minister at Danvers. Minia- 
ture. . (E. I.) 
Ward, Capt. Andrew, 1793-1860, master mariner. By Charles 

Osg-ood. (P. M.J 

Ward, Daniel, 1782-1813. India-ink drawing- by Corne, 1803. (E. I.J 
Ward, Gen. Frederick Townsend, 1831-1862, born in Salem ; 

mandarin and general in the Tai Ping Rebellion. Crayon. (E. I.) 

Ward, George A., 1793-1864, author and antiquarian. (E. I.J 
Ward, Mrs. Mehitable (Curwen), 1741-1813, wife of Richard 

W^ard. (E. I.J 

Ward, Richard. 1741-1824. (E. I.) 

Ward, Richard, jr., 1776-1822. (E. I.J 

Ward, Samuel Curwen, 1767-1817. Oil portrait. (E. I.) 



204 visitor's guide to salem 

Ward, Samuel Curwen, 1767-1817. India-ink drawing by 

Corne, 1803. - (E. I.) 

Ward, Mrs. Sarah Gushing (Curwen), 1769-1863. Crayon. (E. I.) 

Ward, Williaiji Raymond Lee, 1811-1898, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) 
Washington, George, 1732-1799. Copy by James Frothingham 

after Stuart. (C. H.) 

Washington, George, 1732-1799. By Jane Stuart. (C. H.) 

Washington, George, 1732-1799. After Stuart. (G. A.) 

Washington, George. 1732-1799. President of the United States. 

After Stuart. (E. I.) 

Washington. George, 1732-1799. Miniatiire by Joseph Wright, 

New York, 1790. (E. I.) 

Washington, George, 1732-1799. Bas-relief carved in wood, 

bv Samuel Mclntire. (E. I.) 

Washington, George, 1732-1799. Bas-relief (2). (E. I.) 

Waters, Henry F., 1833-1913, genealogist and antiquarian. 

By I. H. Caliga. (E. I.) 

Webster, Daniel, 1782-1852, statesman. (E. I.) 

Webster, Daniel, 1782-1852. Medallion by Wright. E. I.) 

West, Benjamin, 1775, of Salem ; killed at Bunker Hill. 

Pastel copy of a portrait by himself. (E. I.) 

West, Nathaniel, 1756-1851, merchant of Salem. By C. E,. 

Leslie. (P. M.) 

West, Thomas, 1778-1849, master mariner. By his son. (8. M. S.) 

Wheatland, Benjamin, 1801-1854, merchant of Salem. By Fran- 
cis Alexander. (E. I.) 
Wheatland, George, 1804-1893, counselor at law. By Frederic 

P. Vinton. (Ct. H.) 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893, antiquarian, President of the 

Essex Institute, 1868-1893. By Frederic P. Vinton. (E. I.) 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893. Bv J. L. Wimbush. (E. I.) 

Wheatland, Mrs. Mary Eddy (Bemis), 1801-1864, wife of Ben- 

min Wheatland. By Francis Alexander. (E. I.) 

Wheatland, Capt. Uiehard, 1762-1830, master mariner. (P. M.) 

Wheeler, Benjamin, 1790-1874, of Peabodv. (E. I.) 

Whipple, Mrs. Marv Eliza, 1818-1885, of Salem. (E. I.) 

White, Daniel A.,* 1776-1861. Judge of Probate for Essex 
County, first President of the Essex Institute. By Ches- 
ter Harding. (E. I.) 
Wliite, Daniel A., 1776-1861, youthful portrait. (E. I.) 
White, Daniel A., 1776-1861. " Silhouette. (E. I.) 
White, Mrs. Eliza (Wetmore), wife of Judge D. A. ^Vhite. 

Silhouette. (R. M.) 

White, Mrs. Elizabeth (Stone), 1749-1822, wife of Capt. Jo- 
seph \^Tiite. Pastel. (E. I.) 



PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 205 

White, Ca^jt. George F., , master mariner. (P. M.) 

White, Capt. Joseph, 1748-1830, merchant of Salem. Pastel. (E. I.) 

Whittredge, Henry T., — , merchantof Salem. (P. M.) 

Williams, Capt. Nathan, , master mariner. Silhouette. (P. M.) 

Wilson, Eev. Edmund B., 1820-1895, minister, North church, 

Salem; President of the Essex Institute. Photograph. (E. I.) 
Worcester, Mrs. Hannah Chubbock (Thompson), 1811-1844, 

wife of William Worcester. (E. I.) 
Worcester, Eev. Samuel, 1770-1821, minister. Tabernacle church, 

Salem. Silhouette. (E. I.) 

Worcester, William, 1807-1830. (E. I.) 



CHAPTER XV. 

Neighboring Places of Interest. 
BEVERLY. 

George Cabot (1752-1823), lived at 104 Cabot street. He was 
United States Senator and Representative, was offered the first port- 
folio of the Navy Department by President John Adams, was chosen 
biographer of Fisher Ames, ancestor of Senator Lodge, and president, 
in 1814, of the Hartford Convention. Mr. Cabot entertained Wash- 
ington at breakfast in this house, October 30, 1789, and thence ac- 
companied his illustrous guest to visit, at North Beverly, the first 
cotton mill in America. 

Beverly Historical Society, 117 Cabot street. John Cabot 
lived here and on the first day of September, 1824, when Mr. Cabot 
had left town and the fine structure was occupied by banking and in- 
surance offices, Lafayette was welcomed from the steps by Robert 
Rantoul in behalf of the town of Beverly. Edward Burley, the last 
occupant, bequeathed it to the Beverly Historical Society and its col- 
lections of relics, pictures, manuscripts and books, may be seen at 
all hours of the day on application at the side door on Central street. 

City Hall, 191 Cabot street, is a greatly transformed mansion 
house built by Andrew, one of the three famous Cabot brothers, 
Beverly's great merchants of the post-revolutionary era, to whose 
energy Essex Bridge and the first cotton manufactures of America 
are due. In it, when afterwards owned by Col. Israel Thorndike, 
also a successful privateersman and most eminent merchant, were en- 
tertained Governor Gore on his famous eastern tour in 1809, Presi- 

(206) 



NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 207 

(lent Monroe at breakfast, July 10, 1817, and Daniel Webster, at 
dinner, in August, 1830. 

First Cotton Mill in America. Near the corner of Cabot and 
Dodge streets, formerly stood a three-story brick building, built in 
1788, in which was set up the first cotton manufactory in America. 
A slate-stone slab, at the site of this mill, commorates a visit made 
Oct. 30, 1789 by Wasiiington while on his eastern tour. 

The First Sunday School in America was gathered in a modest 
house at the corner of Davis and Front streets and in a more pre- 
tentious one a little further on, lived the famous privateersman of the 
Revolution, Hugh Hill, Andrew Jackson's cousin — the terror of 
British commerce. 

Oliver Wendell Holmes. At the Farms village, leaving the 
flagpole on the left are two old houses on either hand just before the 
railroad is reached ; in the right-hand one of which Doctor Holmes 
lived when he dated his letters from "Beverly-Farms-by-the-Depot," 
and in the other lived Lucy Larcom and entertained Whittier as a 
guest. On Hart street may be seen Doctor Holmes's last residence 
at Beverly Farms, now the summer resort of Justice Holmes. 

Mingo Beach, with its drifting mists and broad expanse of shin- 
gle, took its name from a negro slave of the ancient village. Here a 
schooner, run ashore under British guns, June 9, 1815, was fired by 
a boat's crew from a hostile man-of-war. and abandoned. 

Rev. Andrew P. Peabody ^1811-1893), the eminent divine, was 
born at 154-6 Cabot street. 

Robert Rantoul ( 1805-1852), U. S. Senator, was born at the coi;- 
ner of Lothrop and Washington streets. His grave is near by. The 
monument bears an epitapli from the pen of Sumner. 

South Meeting House, Cabot street, possesses an ancient clock 
and a Paul Revere bell inscribed, "Revere and Sons, Boston, 1803." 
Near it, across the street, is the home of Nafhan Dane, who sleeps in 
the cemetery hard by, commemorated by an inscription from the pen 
of Story. This point in Beverly was made the object of a vigorous 
cannonade by the blockading British ship-of-war "Nautilus", of 
twenty guns, in 1775, when she got the range of the belfry on the 



208 visitor's guide to salem 

old South Meeting House and attempted to enforce the surrender of 
an escaping privateersman by making a target of the town. 

DANVERS. 

Danvers Historical Society, 11 Page street, is housed in the 
Col. Jeremiah Page house, built about 1754. Here Madam Page's 
tea-party was held on the roof, because they had agreed to use no 
tea under their roof, and here General Gage had his office while liv- 
ing at the Hooper house in the summer of 1774. An interesting col- 
lection of old china, Revolutionary relics, MSS.^ etc., is exhibited, with 
a number of portraits including those of Dr. Amos Putnam, 1765, 
or earlier, the poet Whittier, Gen. Moses Porter, and A. A. Low of 
Brooklyn, a benefactor of the Society. Admission 10 cents. 

Danvers Iron Works, Waters river. Here was the iron mill and 
nail factory of Dr. Nathan Read in 1789. He invented machinery 
for cutting nails, and produced here the first cut nails. The line 
country residence he built for himself is on the left on an eminence 
beyond the grove. In 1789 he successfully tested a paddle-wheel 
steamboat invented and built by him, in the river, starting from his 
iron mill at Danversport. On board were John Hancock, Nathan 
Dane, Rev. Dr. Prince, and Dr. Holyoke of Salem. This was 
eighteen years before a similar attempt was made by Robert Fulton 
at New York. 

Danvers State Lunatic Hospital, Newbury street, was erected 
at a cost of about $1,500,000. The view from the hill is one of the 
finest in Essex County. The buildings are open only on Wednesdays 
and Saturdays, but the grounds are always open. 

Gov. John Endecott's "orchard farm," Endecott street, still pre- 
serves the pear tree set out about 1632. This tree, of which only 
sprouts remain, is claimed to be the oldest cultivated fruit tree in 
New England. It still bears fruit. 

First Parish Burying Ground. Summer street. Here are the 
graves of Elizabeth, wife of Rev. Samuel Parris, of witchcraft no- 
toriety; of Parson Wadsworth, of the Clarkes, Hobarts, and many 



NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 209 

of the Putnams. This is probahly the oldest cemetery in Danvers. 
and was originally the Putnam family cemetery. 

Folly Hill, more recently named "Moimt Burnet," is approached 
from Water street, and has been described by Hawthorne. It is now 
crowned by the large reservoir of the Salem Water Works, which 
destroyed the former cellar holes of a famous mansion, built (1740- 
1745) by the Hon. William Browne, a public-spirited citizen of 
great wealth, whose descendants removed to Virginia and intermar- 
ried with the Washingtons. It contained the finest ballroom in this 
region. It was popularly known as "Brown's Folly." The view is 
unsurpassed. 

Judge Samuel Holten (1738-1816), a famous Revolutionary pa- 
triot and president of the Continental Congress, lived at the corner 
of Centre and Holten streets. 

Hooper-Collins House at the end of Collins street, at the right, 
is the mansion house built by "King" Hooper, now known as "The 
Lindens." General Gage established his headquarters in this house in 

1774, just after he was appointed by the King, governor of the Prov- 
ince, with instructions to transfer the State capital to Salem. In the 
field opposite was the camp of the two companies of Leslie's 64th 
British regiment, afterwards in the expedition to Salem, Feb. 26, 

1775, and in that to Lexington, April 19, 1775. 

Capt. Israel Hutchinson, a gallant officer in the Revolution, 
lived in front of what is now the Danversport railroad station. A 
monument marks the spot. 

"Oak Knoll," the former home of the poet Whittier, is in the 
woods beyond the burial ground on Summer street. 

Peabody Institute, rear of Town House. This edifice was 
erected in 1892, to replace the former building that had been de- 
stroyed by fire. The public library and a hall are in this building, 
which was endowed by the philanthropist. George Peabody of Lon- 
don. On the edge of the pond in the rear of the Institute stands the 
house which was long the home of Judge Samuel Putnam. 

Gen. Israel Putnam, the Revolutionary hero, was born in the 
house at 431 Maple street. 



210 visitor's guide to SALEM 

Hon. James Putnam was born just beyond the old cemetery on 
Summer street. He was the last Attorney-General of Massachusetts 
under the Crown, Judge of the Supreme Court of New Brunswick, 
and '*the best lawyer in America," said President Adams. A covered 
well just beyond the birthplace of James Putnam, in the field to the 
left, is near the site of the home of John Putnam, Sr. T he road 
passes over the site. 

St. John's Normal College, a Roman Catholic school, is on the 
northwest corner of Spring an.d Summer streets. The main building 
was erected by Jacob Spring, and is built of brick and forty-two vari- 
eties of stone picked up on the estate. 

Training Field, corner Centre and Ingersoll streets, was, in 1694. 
donated by Nathaniel Ingersoll to tlie inhabitants as "a training 
place forever." The town of Danvers, in 1894, set a huge boulder 
on the "green," with a suitable inscription thereon. 

First Church, corner Centre and Plobart streets. This has been 
the meeting-house site of this parish since 1702. The earlier and 
witchcraft meeting-house stood about seven hundred feet northeast- 
erly on the other side of Hobart street (called "meeting-house lane" 
in early days), just easterly of Forest street. On turning down Cen- 
tre street, at the left may be seen Parson Wadsworth residence, built 
about 1784. Rev. Samuel Parris, the witchcraft pastor of Salem 
Village lived in the parsonage which formerly stood about three hun- 
dred feet from the Parson Wadsworth house on Centre street. Here 
the delusion began. 

George Jacobs, who was executed as a witch in 1692, lived in a 
house still standing in the fields easterly from the foot of Gardner's 
hill. His remains are buried in the field between the house and the 
street. 

Rebecca Nurse Burying Ground, off Collins street in a field 
among some pine trees. Here is the monument with its inscription 
composed by the poet Whittier, erected to the memory of Rebecca 
Nurse who was executed for witchcraft in 1692. This field is a part 
of the ancient Nurse farm, and the old house in which Mrs. Nurse 
lived, said to have been built in 1636, is seen to the northeast on the 



NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 211 

hill. The house and burying-ground are now owned by the Nurse 
Memorial Association. The house has been restored and three 
rooms have been furnished in the old manner. Admission 10 cents. 



PEABODY. 

Lexington Monument, corner Main and Washington streets, a 
granite monument erected in memory of the men from this town 
(then Danvers) who fell in the battles of Lexington and Concord, 
April 19, 1775. The monument was dedicated by Gov. Edward 
Everett. The famous Bell tavern formerlv stood on the left-hand 
corner. 

Peabody Historical Society, organized in 1896, has rooms in the 
Warren National Bank Building, with a collection of historical relics 
and curiosities. 

Peabody Institute, 64 Main street, is a public library founded 
with a bequest of $200,000 by George Peabody. Here is deposited 
a portrait of Queen Victoria painted on enamel, the colors being 
burned in and backed by a sheet of gold. Sixteen firings were needed 
to perfect the work. The picture was a gift from the Queen to Mr. 
Peabody in commemoration of his beneficence to the poor of London. 
The Sutton Reference Library, in the same building, was founded 
in 1869 by Mrs. Eliza Sutton, as a memorial to her son, Eben Dale 
Sutton. 

George Peabody. the world-renowned philanthropist, was born 
in the house numbered 205 Washington street. A tablet stands in 
front of the house. The name of the town, South Danvers, was 
changed to Peabody, in his honor, in 1868. 

William Frederick Poole, the first librarian of the Newberry 
Library at Chicago, was born in Salem, Dec. 24, 1821. The boun- 
dary lines having since been changed ; the house is now within the 
limits of Peabody, and the second below Pierpont street — 133 Main 
street. Mr. Poole had been librarian of the Boston Atheni?eum, Cin- 
cinnati Public Library, and the Chicago Public Library, and was the 



212 visitor's guide to salem 

compiler of Poole's Index and a frequent contributor to historical 
and literary publications. - 

"Eliza Wharton" the "Coquette," Richard Derby, the patriot, 
Jones Very, the poet, and five of the Danvers minute men who fell 
at the battle of Lexington, were buried in the ancient cemetery at the 
dividing line between Peal)ody and Salem. 

MARBLEHEAD. 

The quaint old town of Marblehead is very enjoyable to any one 
who appreciates the picturesque. Many of the streets are crooked be- 
yond description, reminding those who have travelled abroad of the 
older parts of Naples. The earliest houses are as striking in ap- 
pearance and as queerly constructed as the streets. It is an old pro- 
vincial town, entirely unlike any other place in the land. It was set- 
tled largely, while a part of Salem, by fishermen from the Channel 
Islands, and to this day French Huguenot names, though often cor- 
rupted, are far from rare among them. They are a most hospitable 
people and famous fighters, and, during the Revolutionary War, had 
a whole regiment of their own under arms, which furnished oarsmen 
in Washington's passage of the Delaware and of New York Bay. A 
pleasant hour may be spent in driving through the streets and tlie 
people, who are proud of their town, are always ready to show the 
stranger its odd features and points of historic interest. In the 
simmier time the harbor is the rendezvous of the yachts of the lead- 
ing clubs, cruising along the coast, and the regattas of the Eastern 
and Corinthian clubs are social events of tlie season. 



Abbot Hall is on the Common, at the junction of Washington and 
Lee streets. Several fine paintings are in the reading room, including 
"The Spirit of '76." 

Fountain Inn, the scene of the romantic story of Agnes Surriage, 
was formerly located on Orne street near the harbor. 



NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 213 

Elbridge Gerry, the only Essex County signer of the Declara- 
tion of Independence, a Vice-President of the United States and 
Governor of Massachusetts, was born in a three story house on Wash- 
ington street nearly opposite the old North church. The system by 
which political districts are constituted to benefit the party in power, 
which was first applied while he was governor, has been called the 
"Gerrymander." 

Marblehead Historical Society, 169 Washington street, now 
owns and occupies the Lee mansion house, built in 1770, one of the 
finest examples of architecture of its period and now containing a 
valuable and interesting collection of furniture, china, and historical 
relics. Admission 10 cents. 

Capt. James Mugford, of Revolutionary fame, lived in the house 
at the corner of Mugford and Back streets. 

St. Michael's Church (Episcopal), Summer street, was built in 
1714. 

Justice Joseph Story was born at 104 Washington street, and on 
the left, at the foot of the hill, is the old town house erected in 1727. 



INDEX 



Abbot, Col. Stephen 
Academy Hall . 
Adams, John 
Adams, John Qiiincy 
Allen, William . 
Almshouse, 
Ames Memorial Hall 
Andrew, Gov. John A 
Andrew house . 
Architecture and houses 

7, 32-43, 58 
Armory, Salem Cadet 
Arthur, President 
Arthur, Prince (Eng.) 
Assembly House 
Associated Charities 
Athenseum, Salem . 



175 
131 
174 
84 
99, 114 
115 
131 
175 
151 

, 73, 81 
97,115 
175 
177 
151 
145 
70 



Bands in Salem . . 116 
Barnard, Eev. Thomas 135, 174 
Beadle's Tavern . . 151 
Becket's shipyard . . 163 
Belcher, Governor . . 176 
Bell, Prof. A. Graham . 176 
Bentley, Eev. William . 176 
Bertram Home for Aged Men 146 
Beverly Historical Society 206 
Beverly City Hall . , 206 
Bishop, Bridget . . 18, 151 

Bishop House . . . 151 
Boardman House . . 150 
Boulder, 23d regiment . 164 
Bowditch, Nathaniel . 176 
Bradstreet, Gov. Simon 

5, 70, 166, 176 
Bridge, North . . . 156 
Broad Street Cemetery . 165 



Brooks, Eev. Charles T. 
Browne, Col. William 
"Browne's Folly" 
Bulfinch, Charles 
Burnett, Gov. William 



127, 



Cabot, George . . 177, 

Cabot house . . . 36, 

Cadet Armory . 

Carlton, Eev. Michael 

Cemeteries 

Charter Street Burying 

Ground . . .53, 
Charters .... 
Chase house, 

Choate, Eufus . . 123, 
Churches, Calvary Baptist 

Crombie Street 

East .... 

First . . . 2,61, 

First Baptist 

Friends 

Grace .... 

Howard Street 

Immaculate Conception 

Lafayette St. Methodist, 

North .... 

Quaker .... 

St. James's . 

St. John the Baptist 

St. Joseph's . 

St. Peter's 

Second .... 

Sons of Jacob Synagogue 

South . . ' . 

Tabernacle 

I'uiversalist . 



176 

153 

149, 

115> 

176^ 

206 

15 

11 

14Q'' 

165 

165 
1.5 
152 
177 
135 
135 
142 
135 
135 
137 
137 
137 
138 
139 
139 
137 
140 
140 
140 
141 
142 
143 
143 
143 
144 



(214) 



INDEX. 



215 



Chnrclies, Wesley . 
City Hall 

Civil War, Salem in 
Clubs 

Cogswell, Gen. William 
Cold Spring . • ^ „ „, 
Commerce of Salem b, 8, 21 
Common, The . • • 
Conant, Eoger . . 1. 

Congress, First Provincial 
Cook-Oliver house, . 
Copley, John Singleton . 
Corey. Giles . • • 
Corey, Giles, Execution ot 
Corwin house . 
Corwin, Sheriff George . 
Cotton mill, First . 
Court House, Old 
Court House, The "1785" . 
Court House, Witchcraft 
Court Houses, Federal Street 
Cranch, Richard 
Crowninshield, Benjamin W. 
Crowninshield, George 
Crowninshield, Jacob 
Crowninshield's wharf 
Custom House . . -60 



15, 
33, 



16 



144 
116 

164 

146 

177 

170 

, 31 

169 

164 

119 

153 

177 

177 

15 

164 

162 

207 

118 

121 

118 

121 

160 

177 

J23 

162 

152 

123 



Danvers (Salem Village) 148, 
Danvers First Church . 
Danvers Historical Society 
Danvers Iron Works . 

Danvers Lunatic Hospital 
Derby, Elias Hasket 26, 127, 
Derby Street 
Dorchester Company 
Downing, Emanuel . 



East India Marine Society 
Edward VII of England . 
Emerson, Eev. Brown 



210 
208 
208 
208 
158 

24 
1 

70 



84 
177 

175 



Endecott, Gov. 



John 
2, 5, 63, 173, 178 



Endecott pear tree . 
Endicott, William C. 
English house . 
Essex (Beverly) Bridge . 
Essex County Collections 



208 

178 

58 

152 

92-96 



Essex County Natural History 

Society 
Essex Historical Society 
Essex House 
Essex Institute 
Essex Street 
"Evangeline," Its origin in 

Salem . . • • 



Farmer, Prof. Moses G. . 
Father Mathew Society . 
"Federal Street" 
Felt, Eev. Joseph B. 
Fire, Great, of 1914 
Fire protection, Early 
Firemen, Veteran, Associa 

tion 
Fishing industry. 
Folly Hill . 
Forest Elver Park 
Forts, Old 
Franklin Building 
Fraternity, Salem 

Gage, Gen. Thomas 127, 178 

Callow's Hill . . -20, 154 

Garden. Eopes Memorial . Ill 

Gardner, Capt. Joseph 

Gerry, Elbridge 

Goodhue, Benjamin . 

G. A. E. Hall . 

Grant, President 

Gray, William 

Grimshawe house 



68 

67 

153 

67-82 

63 

59 

178 
146 
183 
178 
10 
149 

149 

3, 21 

209 

170 

154,172 
132 
146 



70 
313 
178 
147 
179 
28, 153, 179 
. 52, 154 



Halls, 

Hamilton, Alexander 



131 
179 



2l6 



INDEX. 



Hamilton Hall . . 132 

Hai-aden, Jonathan . . 179 
Harmony Grove Cemetery 165 
Harrison, President Benja- 
min . . . . 179 
Hathorne, Col. John, grave- 
stone . . . . 15 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 9, 44-64 
Birthplace of . . 47, 155 
Charter Street house . 52 
Chestnut Street house . 51 
Custom house . . 60, 124 
Dearborn Street ho\ise . 51 
Herbert Street house . 47 
"House of the Seven Ga- 
bles" .... 54-60 
Mall Street house . 51 
Original of "Grandfather's 
Chair" ... 59 
Hawthorne, Places of resi- 
dence . . . 46-52 
"Scarlet Letter" . . 60 
"Toll Gatherer's Day" 62 
Town Pump . . .61, 173 
Higginson, Kev. Francis . 2, 179 
Holmes, Dr. Oliver Wendell 9, 207 
Holten, Judge Samuel . 209 
Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augus- 
tus .... 180 
Hooper house, , , 35, 209 
Hospital, Salem . . 126 
House of the Seven Gables 

35, 54-60, 155 
Hunt house ... 58 

Indian deed of Salem . 117 

Indians .... 4 

Ingersoll, Horace . . 59 

Ingersoll, Miss Susan . 54 

Jackson, President . 180 

Jacobs, George . . 17,210 

Jail, County ^ . . . 126 



Jail, Witchcraft . . 16, 126 

Johnson, Rev. Samuel . 180 
Juniper Point . . 173 

Kcssuth, Louis . . 180 

Lafayette, Marquis de 154, 180 
Lander. Gen. Frederick W. 181 
Ledge Hill Pai'k . . 170 
Lee, Fort ... 172 
"Leslie's Betreat" in 1775 156 
Lexington monument (Pea- 
body) ... 211 
Liberty Hill ... 170 
Libraries, Essex lustitute 71 
Law . . . . 114 
Salem Athenaeum . 113 
Salem Public . . Ill 
Light Hoiise, Winter Island 173 
Lincoln, Governor . . 182 
Loring, George B. . . 182 
Low, Ablel A. . . . 182 
Lynde, Judge Benjamin . 182 

McClellan, Gen. Geoi'ge B. 182 
Mclntire, Samuel 

41, 127, 158, 169, 182 
Marblehead excursion . 212 
So- 

213 

155 

126 

116, 147 



Marblehead Historical 

ciety . 
Marine Society Bethel 
Market House 
Masonic Temple 



grave- 



Mather, Nathaniel, 

stone .... 165 
Mathew, Eev. Theobold, stat- 
ue ... . 164 
Maule, Thomas . . 182 
Mayflower gravestone . 165 
Miller, Gen. James 124, 146, 183 
Mingo Beach . . . 207 
Missionaries, First, ordained 143 
Monroe, President . . 183 



INDEX. 



21 7 



More, Capt. Richard 126, 165, 183 

Museums, Essex Institute 67 

Peabody Museum . . 83 

N^arbonne house . .35, 156 
Psaumkeag .... 1 

>J^aumkeag- Steam Cotton Co. viii 
Nichols house . . . 158 



S'orris, Rev. Edward 


183 


North Bridge . 


156 


Noyes, Rev. Nicholas 


183 


Vurse, Rebecca 


. 16,210 


Old Bakery 


158 


Old Ladies' Home . 


145 


Old Men's Home 


146 


Oliver, Gen. Henry K. 


152, 183 



I'age, Madam, tea party . 208 
Parkman, Deliverance, house 57 
Parks and Squares . . 169 
Parris, Rev. Samuel . . 12 

Peabody, Rev. A. P. . 207 

Peabody, Col. Francis . 115 
Peabody, George 69, 83, 211 

Peabody, Miss So])hia A. . 52 

Peabody Historical Society 211 
^eabody Institute, Danvers 209 
Peabody Institute, Peabody, 211 
Peabody Museum . . 83-109 
^eirce, Benjamin . . 184 

Pepperrell, Sir William . 184 
Peter, Rev. Hugh . . 184 
^eirce-Nichols house . 158 
dickering, John . . 184 

Pickering, Col. Timothy . 185 

Pickering, Fort . . 173 

Pickering house . . 32, 158 

Pickman house 36, 37, 41, 158 
Pierce, President . . 185 

Plunmier Farm School . 148 

Plummer Hall . . . 70, 113 
Police Station . . . 128 



Polk, President . . 185 
Poole, William Frederick 211 
Porches and Doorways . 37 
Portraits in Public -Institu- 
tions . . . . 190 
Post Office ... 129 
Pownall, Governor . . 185 
Prescott, "William Hickling 71 
Prison ship . . . 160 
Pump, Town . . . 61 
Putnam, Prof. F. W. . 185 
Putnam, James . . 210 



Quakers 

Railroad station 
Rantoul, Robert 
Read, Nathan . 
Red Cross incident 
Revere, Paul 75, 
Revolutionary War 
Rogers, John . 
Roosevelt, President 
Ropes Memorial 
Ruck house 
Rumford, Count 



129 

207 

. 71,185 

173 

130, 142, 207 

6,22,157 

186 

186 

110 

160 

187 



Salem Athenaeum . . 70 

Salem Charitable Mechanic 

Association . . 114 

Salem Club ... 148 
Salem, Commercial period in 21 
Salem Marine Society . 132 
Salem, Settlement of . 1 

Salem Village (Danvers) 210 

Saltonstall, Leverett . 186 
"Scarlet Letter, The" . 52, -60 
Schools .... 129 
Bentley .... 129 
High . . . . 130 

State Normal . . 130 

Seaman's Orphan and Chil- 
dren's Friend Society 148 



2l8 



INDEX. 



Seven Gables, House of the 54 
Sewall, Stephen . .12 
Shattnck, Samnel . . 186 
Sherman, Gen. William T. 186 
Ship Tavern . . . leo 
Ship models and paintings 87-90 
Shipping, Salem . • .8,87-91 
Shipyards . . . , 162 

Silsbee, lYathaniel . . 186 
Skelton, Rev. Samnel . 186 
Story, Joseph . . 186, 213 

Sunday School, First . 207 

Taft. President . . 187 

Theatres .... i3i 

Thompson, Benjamin, Count 

Rumford . . . 187 

Town House . . . us 

Town House Square . 173 

Trees . . . . 112 

I'pham, Rev. Charles W. 187 

Very, Rev. Jones . . 187 

Victoria, Queen, portrait 152 

Ward, Gen. Frederick T. 188 



Ward, John, house . 
Ward, Joshua, house 
Ward, Miles, house . 
Washington, George 

133, 162, 
Washington Hall 
Washington street . 
Watch house 
Webster, Daniel 
West, Lieut. Benjamin 
Wharton, Eliza 
Williams, Roger 
Willows, The . 
Winter Island . 
Winthrop, Henry 
Witchcraft 

Court House . 

Gallows Hill 

Jail 

"Witch" house 
Woman's Friend Society 
Wood carving . 
Woodbury, John 
Worcester, Joseph E. 



Young Men's Christian 
elation 



35 
162 
162 

170, 188 

133 

174 

173 

189 

162 

212 

2,3, 189 

170 

172 

189 

5, 11-20 

16 

19 

16 

33, 164 

149 

38, 43 

189 

189 



Asso- 



150 



Photo{(raphs and 
Souvenir Post Cards 

1 7th century house and type rooms in the Museum. Mclntire porch. 
Portraits and paintings in the Picture Gallery. 



Etchings 

By L. J. Bridgm&n atid George M. White 

Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne. Timothy Pickering House. 
South Church Spire, Salem. Salem Custom House. 

The House of the Seven Gables. Rebecca Nurse House, Danvers. 

The Old Witch House. Dr. Grimshawe House. 

Price, 25 cents each, postpaid. 



Address : 

^e Essex Institute, Salem, Mass. 





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